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Just another fake race car? garage queen.

started assembly today, an hit a snag almost imediately.... the pistons from RSI are not stock size. they don't fit in the block with stock bore. I just got info that the pistons require a 96.5mm bore so back to the machine shop tomorrow for a bore job.

ordered the cams and ARP head studs from Yoshifab today. not much else was done otherwise. I do have a pretty complete set of conversion parts for a 16v conversion that I will be listing in forsale soon. here is the list for now.

16v kit complete
car head
yoshifab intake and injectors
90+ exhaust manifold already machined for t3/4
yoshifab exhaust manifold adapter
timing belt and tensioner kit
aux shaft gear
billet crank gear
yoshifab cas adapter
used mitsubishi cas
waisted spark dsm coils
DSM spark plug wires longer for low mount
DSM ignition module
 
So... How the heck did you get that past smog?? The smog techs in the Bay Area are usually really, really particular about this kinda stuff. I'd do all of that stuff if it didn't require a ref or starting from a diesel
 
Got he Block back from machine shop today... i was a little sad I had to bore a perfectly good stock block... but already had the pistons and needed to bore the block only about .020 hope that doesn't ruin the integrity at all as i push 25psi plus through the block with a little nitrous. :cool:

looking for some advice on ring gap. any input?
 
daang that's a clean car. I always thought it was a wagon though, huh. Anyway.. when you go to install the freeze plugs (since they're out), get the external retainers as well (or make some) so they can't pop out under pressure later. they have a habbit of doing that once replaced.

as far as ring gap.. large-ish.
167140756.jpg


somewhere between 20 and 24 (that's .020 and .024) for the top ring, and whatever the corresponding gap is for the second ring

got those from the the lower numbers on that page.. circle track and blown race
 
daang that's a clean car. I always thought it was a wagon though, huh. Anyway.. when you go to install the freeze plugs (since they're out), get the external retainers as well (or make some) so they can't pop out under pressure later. they have a habbit of doing that once replaced.

as far as ring gap.. large-ish.
167140756.jpg


somewhere between 20 and 24 (that's .020 and .024) for the top ring, and whatever the corresponding gap is for the second ring

got those from the the lower numbers on that page.. circle track and blown race


Right on... thank you Ken. I assembled the short block today. 2.5L is on the way.

had a question about the oil squirters... do you use red threadlock on them, or just install without any threadlock.
 
Anybody got any input on the turbo selection.... I have been running a Garret 3076 ball bearing turbo for about 2 years now... all installed on a 90+ manifold, but going to go with a nice RSI header and still planning on some High horse power...

what say you?

header of choice:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href=" " title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49807709566_c600531b1d.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
Last edited:
Right on... thank you Ken. I assembled the short block today. 2.5L is on the way.

had a question about the oil squirters... do you use red threadlock on them, or just install without any threadlock.

honestly.. I don't recall, but I doubt I used threadlock.
 
do you use red threadlock on them, or just install without any threadlock.

There are many grades of Loctite between red and nothing.

Red is binary; use it and forget it with the plan to never remove the fastener. If you like to sleep at night degrease and dry the threads on both sides and then use a medium or greater grade of Loctite.

Don't forget to reduce the spec torque accordingly for the lubricated threads.
 
Anybody got any input on the turbo selection.... I have been running a Garret 3076 ball bearing turbo for about 2 years now... all installed on a 90+ manifold, but going to go with a nice RSI header and still planning on some High horse power...

what say you?

header of choice:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/20054749@N07/49807709566/in/dateposted/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49807709566_c600531b1d.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

how much power do you want to make?
 
how much power do you want to make?

Hello friend... I'm hoping to make 500 to 600 HP with or without nitrous... I know i should have a better idea for overall HP but my focus in the long term is a 10.99 ET at the drags... I should probably weigh the car soon, and include other items like: I'm running an GM automatic transmision (700R4) with a 4000 stall converter and the rear end gear ratio is 391.

I'm still in the early stages of the new block build but I hoping to get some baseline testing in a month or so, and then lay down some projections.
 
Hello friend... I'm hoping to make 500 to 600 HP with or without nitrous... I know i should have a better idea for overall HP but my focus in the long term is a 10.99 ET at the drags... I should probably weigh the car soon, and include other items like: I'm running an GM automatic transmision (700R4) with a 4000 stall converter and the rear end gear ratio is 391.

I'm still in the early stages of the new block build but I hoping to get some baseline testing in a month or so, and then lay down some projections.

The largest borg S200 SXE (s257sxe) would probably do it and AGP turbo has a 1.0 and 1.25 divided t3 backhousing available for it.

That or the smallest S300 they sell (s362sxe) which is also available with similar backhousing options...the s300 will also give you a bit more headroom where the 200 will be getting close to maxed out.

Don't know how much you're trying to ball out or how much you care about transient response etc...also, you're kind of in a tight spot with trying to find a turbo which flows enough to make that power and keeping a t3 footprint backhousing.
 
The largest borg S200 SXE (s257sxe) would probably do it and AGP turbo has a 1.0 and 1.25 divided t3 backhousing available for it.

That or the smallest S300 they sell (s362sxe) which is also available with similar backhousing options...the s300 will also give you a bit more headroom where the 200 will be getting close to maxed out.

Don't know how much you're trying to ball out or how much you care about transient response etc...also, you're kind of in a tight spot with trying to find a turbo which flows enough to make that power and keeping a t3 footprint backhousing.


THanks for the heads up on the Borg turbos... I am going to have to take a look at those.
 
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