• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

240 shimming prop shaft bearing support

BeaverMeat

Active member
Joined
Aug 8, 2020
Location
Vancouver Island
… is it possible?

I need to correct prop shaft angle. Shimming the trans mount only goes so far. So I’m wanting to lower the center bearing bracket.
 
Do you have adjustable torque rods in the rear?

I personally shimmed my center bearing a bit but only after upgrading it to the 740 type bearing. I wouldn’t recommend this with the squishy 240 center bearing.

I got all or most of my adjustments from the torque rods
 
Do you have adjustable torque rods in the rear?

I personally shimmed my center bearing a bit but only after upgrading it to the 740 type bearing. I wouldn’t recommend this with the squishy 240 center bearing.

I got all or most of my adjustments from the torque rods

I have adjustable torque rods. The problem is from the transmission to the bearing. The T-5 I have in it can only go up so far ands it’s still kittywompis.
 
I tried shimming the stock 240 bearing and had no luck, the rubber was too squishy and malleable. Moved to the spicer/sts center bearing and the stock unshimmed location kept my drivetrain angles perfect.
 
What about the bracket itself? Is it possible to add a 1/2? thick spacers in-between the bracket and the floor pan?

I would think not with the stock setup as it needs the squish factor on the rubber damper. I had the same issue with the two piece driveshaft (actually worse if you use the large Ford Ranger slip yoke) and went one piece. If you want to go the two piece route I would go with the 7/9 bearing setup and a conversion bracket. Email Yoshifab first before ordering and confirm stock. Then you should be able to shim it.
 
I have adjustable torque rods. The problem is from the transmission to the bearing. The T-5 I have in it can only go up so far ands it?s still kittywompis.

What are your driveline angles? To measure the rear you?ll really need to take off the rear driveshaft so you have a flat surface.
 
What are your driveline angles? To measure the rear you?ll really need to take off the rear driveshaft so you have a flat surface.

The torque rods do need adjustment? the mechanic failed to adjust them after the whole axle swap? it?s so tough to find good help around here.

Essentially the shaft goes up from the transmission to the centre bearing and down to the axle.

I did notice some banging noises right at the front seating positions in the trans tunnel when the rear compresses under acceleration.
 
If the rubber around the bearing is too squishy, you could try filling it with 3M Windo-Weld. I did that on my CD009 swap on my 740.
 
Another 240 'U" bracket spaced down to make a clamshell to hold the center support bearing, and or go with the STS BMW solid bearing 240 setup.

:e-shrug:
 
Last edited:
Another 240 'U" bracket spaced down to make a clamshell to hold the center support bearing, and or go with the STS BMW solid bearing 240 setup.

:e-shrug:

What is this STS you speak of?

I’ve been eying up this:

http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=volvo-240-242-uprated-driveshaft-support

Unless there is a cheaper option available. With this design it could easily be shimmed with plates to lower it.

*sigh* I guess it may be time to invest in super heavy duty jack-stands to do it myself. I really hate getting under cars on jack stands. Finding someone to do it will be impossible.
 
Last edited:
KISS

https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=341917

41190027745_92db50807f_c.jpg
 
BeaverMeat;6209854 said:
*sigh* I guess it may be time to invest in super heavy duty jack-stands to do it myself. I really hate getting under cars on jack stands. Finding someone to do it will be impossible.


Welcome to the rest of the known world that don?t own hoists and still want to work on their own cars? the 240 has really good jack points.:-P If you?re working on dirt (or sand in my case) just put plywood squares under the jack stands.

A nice 3 ton jack will get the job done. If you can find six ton jack stands, you can get the car high enough in the air to easily make your driveline angle measurements with confidence.
 
Last edited:
Welcome to the rest of the known world that don?t own hoists and still want to work on their own cars? the 240 has really good jack points.:-P If you?re working on dirt (or sand in my case) just put plywood squares under the jack stands.

A nice 3 ton jack will get the job done. If you can find six ton jack stands, you can get the car high enough in the air to easily make your driveline angle measurements with confidence.

I have no concrete only gravel. I use heavy duty plastic ramps, I put plywood down first. I first bough 2 then one day I thought, man 4 would be nice. They are cheap and work well, I also bought a big aluminum jack from jegs. It makes it alot easier.
 
I have no concrete only gravel. I use heavy duty plastic ramps, I put plywood down first. I first bough 2 then one day I thought, man 4 would be nice. They are cheap and work well, I also bought a big aluminum jack from jegs. It makes it alot easier.

I’m thinking about getting some heavy duty jack stands from Amazon… then returning them because I can.

How do you put this 240 on jack stands? One corner at a time? My miata was easy because I could lift the front on the subframe and the rear with the diff.

EDIT: I guess I can jack the pumpkin.
 
Do you have a princess auto?

Go pick up 4, 6 ton jack stands and the aluminum jack they sell.

The four stands they sell have a nice pocket that fits the pin at the 240 jack points pretty well.

I'll be in naniamo this weekend and can teach/help you out

Jordan
 
I?m thinking about getting some heavy duty jack stands from Amazon? then returning them because I can.

How do you put this 240 on jack stands? One corner at a time? My miata was easy because I could lift the front on the subframe and the rear with the diff.

EDIT: I guess I can jack the pumpkin.

:nod:

Pumpkin first then front X member, but make sure the jack is free to roll on concrete or plywood for the second lift by the x member or the lift pad will try to slide around and or tilt the rear stands.
 
Back
Top