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Conrod question

^^

Basically, what culberro is suggesting.

Get the 93 engine and the rods/pistons from JohnMc. The squirter blocks don't wear out the parts anywhere near as fast as the earlier design did. I'd bet those pistons are in nice shape. That will fit your Turbobricks budget and should actually last awhile.

But he said that he prefers not having to drill the block for the oil return... It's not that hard really.... All you need is a good 1/2 drive drill and a good set of drill bits. The boss on the block is already there for the oil return and you just start with a 1/4 bit a work your way through to a 29/32 for a 3/4 pipe tap. I just bought a 3/4 NPT to -10AN fitting for $3 at my local hydraulic hose shop.
 
True, but I’m admittedly worried about screwing it up. For some reason I’ve always sucked at drilling a straight hole. How “deep” is the hole that has to be drilled? I’m assuming if this is done, all the shavings would go into the oil pan and only the oil pan? That would obviously be off anyway for the rods and pistons swap, I’m just not sure if I would have to do anymore disassembly to get the shavings out
 
True, but I?m admittedly worried about screwing it up. For some reason I?ve always sucked at drilling a straight hole. How ?deep? is the hole that has to be drilled? I?m assuming if this is done, all the shavings would go into the oil pan and only the oil pan? That would obviously be off anyway for the rods and pistons swap, I?m just not sure if I would have to do anymore disassembly to get the shavings out

Don't be scared. Pilot it with a 1/4" bit or so, step it up to 1/2" final size, then go up to the 15/16" and drill about 3/4-1" deep, and tap it for 3/4" NPT.

Pics on how it's done with with the block on the floor. The 2x4 in the bore makes the boss just about flat.. easy to drill straight down: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=304080&page=52

Do it when the pan and head off. Super easy to clean it all out.
 
Thanks for the link! I am a tad confused though. Are you talking about the 2x4’s on the ground, under the engine to level it out? How would a board in the bore make any difference. Also I’m assuming by the pictures I’ll have to drill out for the turbos oil feed line
 
Thanks for the link! I am a tad confused though. Are you talking about the 2x4?s on the ground, under the engine to level it out? How would a board in the bore make any difference. Also I?m assuming by the pictures I?ll have to drill out for the turbos oil feed line

You'll need both sets of boards. When drilling the return the block would want to stand up, so the board in the bore keeps that from happening. I'm sure there's other ways of cribbing it, we just had a stack of 2x4s and made it work.

For oil feed, you can use the m14 threaded hole that the oil-pressure sender is in, or remove the plug in the front of the block (near-ish the timing belt tensioner).
 
The drill bit for a 3/4 NPT is usually 29/32 and not 15/16. That's what the tap chart says I think.

Correct. I usually go up a 1/32 over the spec so it doesn?t take all my strength to turn the tap wrench. This is a bigger issue with deep NPT threads, as the tap is drastically enlarging the hole. Thin material, it?s not an issue.
 
Problem solved! A local shop has a 1990 turbo engine that I’m gonna be picking up for 300$. If I had the time and money I would’ve picked up the 16v engine that he has for sale as well. Of the three 8v engines, only one was a 90+. Thank you all for the help
 
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