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Hackster's LSA / T56 2 door

Those Recaros came out beautifully! Hope to source some as well in time.

Thanks, pretty stoked on how they turned out especially considering the work he did, the time frame and the beyond reasonable price.

Well, after work on it last week and having a no start issue I concluded that we had no spark, no injectors. Some reading up and poking around in the Tune led me to this gem.

The Start Circuit Checks was enabled. Toggled that to disabled and she fired up, but only ran for a second. Chatted with Ron the tuner and he messed with it a bit over the last part of the week and yesterday and sent me a tune to try today, we had the wrong data in for the LS7 MAF sensor. She fired right up and ran for 40 seconds!!! So ****ing stoked to hear it run for the first time. Had 60PSI oil pressure and all looks good.



First Data Log of it running!!



Start up video

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vZKxLwzMUYM" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


So I got the rear diff all filled up with fluid and friction modifier and buttoned up. Got the catch can drain plumbed in and insulated since it will have to be somewhat close to the exhaust and pulled the horrible outer window scrapers off and got some new Barton parts installed. I had to pinch the tracks a fair bit to get them to stay in but all in all a nice product. I have inners but gotta figure out door panel materials before that.



Onto the next steps now that we know it runs. Roll bar, harnesses, dash guages, carpet, bleed brakes and clutch, coolant in both systems the list goes on and on =)

Good fun though.

Sean
 
Can you post up a screen shot of the info the LS7 Maf? I'll be swapping from a LM7 man to an LS7 one when I do my swap.
 
Can you post up a screen shot of the info the LS7 Maf? I'll be swapping from a LM7 man to an LS7 one when I do my swap.

Yeah when I get a little free time I can. We just had the total wrong info in there we were like 10% of what we should have had.

Sounds like she needs some more fuel in that tune.

Clearly, its literally the second time its started, there is no exhaust or 02 sensors hooked up so zero reason to move farther along with the tune until we are at least fully assembled.

I have been working to get the catch can plumbing all buttoned up and get the drain line installed and heat wrapped. Also drilled and tapped the water pump for the steam port line to hook into. Got that all buttoned up over the past few days. All of my cooling system is completed and tight as well as the coolant loop for the supercharger got all the clamps tightened and got it ready to fill this week. Still have not done that yet but will in the next few days.

Carpet and floor mats showed up, its not quite the color I had imagined but looks to be ok quality. Little lighter than I had hoped but when set next to a seat it looks pretty damn good.

I ordered all of the parts for the exhaust yesterday from Summit. 2.5 from the manifold to a y pipe then into a 3" Black Widow muffler, some kooks weld bungs for o2 and wideband, a bunch of v bands and a 3" tailpipe. Will all be stainless vibrant stuff, stainless works hangers and a flex connection for the drivers side before the y. I hope to be able to run a tailpipe out the back of the car if I can get it over the rear axle and around the tank and coilovers. Its all mandrel bent should be good and hope it is enough flow for the HP I am looking for.

Picking up the tubing for the roll bar tomorrow and hope to make a dent on that over the holiday weeks.

Be just a matter of time before this bitch is on the road!!

Sean
 
Ive been reading that its literally a 10% change in the tune to go from an lm7 to a LS7

Shoot me your phone number and Ill text you a pic of the table. I have it on my phone.

Managed to make a little progress on the car but managed to screw up a $150.00 chunk of tube in the process as well.

Seriously had a ton of parts ready to go and have made so little progress. I needed to track down some **** for the holiday on Saturday, then get it back home, then get the bender finally bolted down in the middle of the shop, move the jeep cause I couldnt swing the damn tube around.

Frustrated around that but managed to be 1.75" wider than it should have been. Second time fit like a champ.

Gutted again.



Bending **** up again.



****ed up tube



The real one in place, needs some trimming to get it to fit and a bunch more toob as well




Steering arms need to go in for zinc coating so they both match.



Exhaust parts and pieces.



Out of town for the holiday but hope to make some progress next weekend.

Merry Christmas to all of my friends on the internets!!!!

Sean
 
I have a completely caged Volvo 240, as well as a cage kit for a 240 in the shop if you want to come by and take any measurements.
The shop is near i5/217/hwy99
 
I have a completely caged Volvo 240, as well as a cage kit for a 240 in the shop if you want to come by and take any measurements.
The shop is near i5/217/hwy99

Who makes the cage kit? I think both of us are curious, as I?m trying to have Sean help me bend some tube up.
 
Who makes the cage kit? I think both of us are curious, as I’m trying to have Sean help me bend some tube up.

Talk to megulon-7, he’s been working on some nice fitting Volvo cages (Pat’s rally car, for instance). There’s a cage kit (done by megulon-7) that is in the Portland area that might be for sale sometime soon. It consists of the main-hoop and half-lateral bars.
I’ll be on the shop the 27th if you want to swing by.
 
Talk to Al (megulon-7) on TB.

I sent him a PM have not heard a peep back.

Been messing with some tubing and struggling with what to do. Halfway tempted to just bag on this idea after getting 742 different opinions on the roll bar/roll cage/street car/harnesses/track car debate. All good info, just getting analysis paralysis.

Main hoop is done for the most part. Just tacked in place for now but it came together pretty nicely.



Floor plate and rear fender well plates are built and ready to go in for the drivers side.





Going to keep trucking on this over the weekend and see what I can come up with.

Its a street car that will do some track days.

Might even be able to work on the exhaust this weekend if I get my **** together.

Sean
 
Its better to have your rear stays go direct to the frame rail over your rear coilover mounts. got to give them the stiffness!!!
 
Its better to have your rear stays go direct to the frame rail over your rear coilover mounts. got to give them the stiffness!!!

Yeah, totally agree. Like I have said, its all about compromise when building an actual street car.

I want a back seat in the car still for aesthetics purposes.

Its been a very, very tough balance on what to do for this. Everyone has their own opinion, trying to take mine and everyones opinion in place.

If I delete the rear seats, I might as well do a full cage in the car. If that is the case, any comfortable street driving is totally out the window.

Car is being built for fun driving car that can do some track days.

I am losing sleep over this one.

Sean
 
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=1177594&postcount=208

I couldn't find any pictures from inside the trunk, but one of these shows the angle of the rear down tubes passing through the rear bulkhead, hitting the frame rail in the trunk of Rob's former 242. I think I would aim for somewhere back there, rather than the top of the inner fender that's just thick sheet metal without any structure beneath it. But I don't know the angle of these down tubes...looks extreme...probably could have used some additional reinforcements.

Check with the rulebook of any organizations you might race with and see what they require. 24hr lemons (not likely, I know...) requires .125" thick spreader plates of at least 24 sq in. SCCA GCR allows 0.080" min thickness for spreader plates, up to 144 sq in and on multiple planes. That was something I would want to take advantage of...maximize the spreader plates and join the floor to the rocker as much as possible.

Improved Touring requires mounting the cage within the passenger compartment, but if you're not going to run with any group that has such a restriction, I'd suggest investigating other rulebooks and see what they say about mounting points and the angle requirement of the rear down tubes.

I've never built a cage, so my advice is always going to be to ask those who have, and find out why it's done a certain way.

The cage in our 240 lemons car was out of an E36 Speedvision car. It had a halo extending backward off the main hoop, just like the front halo, but backwards towards the top of the rear windscreen. The down tubes came off this rear halo and were much closer to 45 degrees than what you see in Rob's 242 above. There were diagonal supports from the main hoop up to the rear halo / down tube connection point.

150765583.jpg


A few more E36 examples I found with the X-brace moved well behind the main hoop by way of a rear halo:

http://www.zoompics.com/gallery/2001/01stc-2.jpg
https://1c2a8a2161d644d95009-22d26b...MSR14/pr/turner_livery_yellow_blue_bmw_08.jpg
http://touringcarracing.net/Pictures/1993/ZolderWestf-1993-3a.jpg
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/btcc_5.jpg
 
Yeah, totally agree. Like I have said, its all about compromise when building an actual street car.

I want a back seat in the car still for aesthetics purposes.

Its been a very, very tough balance on what to do for this. Everyone has their own opinion, trying to take mine and everyones opinion in place.

If I delete the rear seats, I might as well do a full cage in the car. If that is the case, any comfortable street driving is totally out the window.

Car is being built for fun driving car that can do some track days.

I am losing sleep over this one.

Sean

Do you plan to have rear passengers or just want the rear seat to have it look finished? By your aesthetics comment it sounds like you dont plan to carry people back there.

My vote is to either make it a functional 4 point with good bracing to the pick up points or do nothing at all. If you do want to run the cage, id treat the rear seat like a 911 does... just use some decent carpeting and decorative padding to finish the area etc...
 
Do you plan to have rear passengers or just want the rear seat to have it look finished? By your aesthetics comment it sounds like you dont plan to carry people back there.

My vote is to either make it a functional 4 point with good bracing to the pick up points or do nothing at all. If you do want to run the cage, id treat the rear seat like a 911 does... just use some decent carpeting and decorative padding to finish the area etc...

I like the finished look of the back seat is all. I have never seen a car that has a roll bar and no back seat look "right" if that means anything.

Towery, thanks for the info, its a great read for sure I just cannot commit to a full cage, it will make the car horrible on the street and I am building this as a street car.

Always appreciate your advice.

In the end, stiffness and function won out over form and fitment of the rear seats.

I can tell you that this was a **** ton of work.

It went in and out of the car too many times to count 90 % of them by myself. I had a hand today thank god.

checking the main hoop for fitment against the seats





Mock up of the rear plates and down tubes.



Main structure tacked together and mocked up the down bars, ready to pull it all out and start welding







Commencing final welding. Was not quite sure how the 1/8" plate would weld to the factory sheetmetal but once I had the welder dialed in it was good to go.

Pretty happy with the way these laid out, directly over the rear crossmember and shock mount should stiffen up the back of the car a lot.





The way I built it I was able to slide the final welded main hoop with the down bars tacked on forward so I was able to final weld up the top of the down bars nicely and 100%.



Worked like a charm

I had a slight kick angle on one of the legs and it needed to get pushed back a hair so a little push with the porta power and it was all good!!



Welded out



The **** show of fire paper and all kinds of crap.



Hope to be able to get it scuffed, primed and painted tomorrow, maybe start on the exhaust next weekend.

Thanks for the pointers all.
 
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