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Safe at 20psi?

^ this. There is a ton of info on fuel system upgrades here, look around a bit. You will get much more helpful responses when you know a bit more about the different ways we have solved these problems. Then discuss which might be the best for you. If you are on a tight budget, save up a bit before the next move so you don't set yourself back with the ventilated block mod.

Generally no one here just hands you the answer for a question that has been asked a million times.

You don't need to blow through the MAF unless you are using a blow off valve. It's not ideal to have it after the turbo unless you really need to.
 
And can you tell me why he would need a complete turbo engine setup? does he have a big hole in the block? this coming from someone running a b230 FD @ 18 psi of boost for the last two years.

Next, why are you here? Do you own a RWD Volvo? That's why I'm here not to let everyone know what I ate last or how I change ****ty diaper's while my Wife is at work

Let's put it this way..if you met the OP face to face and you could tell by looking at him he could mop the floor with your ass would you still call him a cockroach???


Shifted said:
It was said with a wink and a smile in case you didn't notice... and by "FT block" I meant a complete turbo engine setup, that someone was selling here but got snatched up.

BTW why are you here? We kept the guy from blowing his engine... fair enough? When someone posts goals like "20 psi" they need to get nipped hard in the bud before they're actually implemented.

And the Peanut is long out of diapers... unlike some here. ;-)
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Up the boost till it starts pinging then back it down. At minimal you'd want some h beam rods. They're cheap enough and if you dont want to pull motor, drop the subframe and do it from the bottom. The point being, don't over do it till you have more money to upgrade.
 
Uh-oh. You brought the OT squad in.

I’ll try to offer helpful advice. 20psi on Na pistons is a lot of pressure. Probably won’t last too long if a/f is lean or engine is knocking. Probably won’t last long even if that isn’t happening. 16:1 seems kind of lean if you’re hanging out there for any amount of time. Probably need bigger injectors at the very least. What ecu is in this thing? Assuming it is lh something? Does it have knock detection and retard? What fuel are you using?

Short answer: No.
 
SoniX said:
Hey guys, I've got my volvo running now thankfully...

Its a Stock b230f squerter block which I rebuilt its got
New head gasket and bolts
I reused the original rods and pistons
A cam
Ebay special t3t4 turbo
Stock down pipe only and 3 inch back (3 inch sports cat and silencer)
Ram Air
Moved AMM to just before throttle body
Stock fuel system

Afr guage sticks around 14-15 cruising
Flooring it drops to 12-13
From time to time does go upto 16 but comes back down.

Question is would it be safe to run it at 20psi?

i for got to add, it also has a fuel chip

Thanks for any input
Click to expand...

Why do you want to run 20psi? Like, just because or is there a specific power goal you're trying to obtain?

I'd maybe suggest a different approach. The high compression engine is going to limit you in terms of the amount of boost you can safely run on regular gas. If we start talking E85 then some of this becomes less relevant.

What intercooler are you running? Stock volvo intercooler? Kenny has shown dyno proven like 20 wheel hp gains by going to the do88 unit.

That A cam is pretty meh. An enem 15V or 16V would give much better results than an oem emissions cam.

That stock downpipe needs to go.

The AMM needs to be moved over to pre-turbo so it will get an accurate reading. It wasn't really designed as a blow through and that ebay 50 trim is going to probably seep some oil that would be better to not get on the AMM. An upgrade to a 3" AMM is possible.

Couple the 3" AMM with some orange/white/blue/green top injectors from a FWD turbo car so you've got enough injector. You'll want a bigger in tank fuel pump too. Walbro or DW200/300. Upgrade the intake pump to one of those and then you can throw that under the car pump set up into the woods where it belongs.

If you're sticking with LH you'll want a chip for the ignition side too. Need to pull the timing back up high(and probably down low too but the 50trim maybe spools slow enough it won't ping down low).

The intercooler and cam upgrades alone would probably make more power at 12-14psi than your A cam and oem intercooler at 20.
 
SoniX said:
It runs much better after moving to throttle body side. It stock place it would go really rich after revving
Click to expand...

If you are measuring the air going in, You have to recirculate the dumped boost because that is measured air. If you dump measured air it will over-fuel.
 
Redwood Chair said:
Tb newb performance faq
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2turbotoys said:
^ this. There is a ton of info on fuel system upgrades here, look around a bit. You will get much more helpful responses when you know a bit more about the different ways we have solved these problems. Then discuss which might be the best for you. If you are on a tight budget, save up a bit before the next move so you don't set yourself back with the ventilated block mod.

Generally no one here just hands you the answer for a question that has been asked a million times.

You don't need to blow through the MAF unless you are using a blow off valve. It's not ideal to have it after the turbo unless you really need to.
Click to expand...


Exactly, what they said! ;-)
 
Also, there is never a need to personally attack someone on any forum anywhere. It's futile and unnecessary. As corny as it may sound, we should treat each other the way we would treat a cloned version of ourselves! Because I can't wait for the day I can clone myself and have him work on the car (while I berate him personally for (doing it all wrong!") :)
 
My apologies if I was toxic. This forum has always been very helpful to me and I have learned a lot. I have found I get better responses when I do a little research before I ask a question.
 
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