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Clutch slip...

Cwazywazy

Cwazywazy

Single jingle
Joined
Aug 20, 2016
Location
Granby CT
I put in my new M46 with a smoothlock clutch disk, reusing the ~4 month old sachs turbo pressure plate on a freshly surfaced flywheel. It slipped really badly so today I ripped it apart and stuck the old sachs disk back in, which did not slip with the old trans. It slips just as badly. As you can imagine I'm not exactly pleased about having spent 3 days messing with transmissions only to have a slipping clutch.. Everything was cleaned, the sachs disk never got oil on it, etc.. I'm confused. It was a perfectly good clutch setup a few days ago and the only change was a flywheel surfacing.

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What flywheel did you use? Sometmies if the recessed flywheel isn't surfaced on both the face where the disc goes and the raised lip. The clutch won't function propperly. Also did you torque the bolts for the pressure plate? If you overtighten the pressure plate bolts the disc will slip.
 
dl242gt said:
What flywheel did you use? Sometmies if the recessed flywheel isn't surfaced on both the face where the disc goes and the raised lip. The clutch won't function propperly. Also did you torque the bolts for the pressure plate? If you overtighten the pressure plate bolts the disc will slip.
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What do you mean overtightening those will cause slip? I couldn't find my adapter so I torqued them by hand.
 
LC4CARL said:
Just curious if the changes required that the cable be adjusted to one extreme or the other?
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I adjusted the pedal down a tiny bit so the bite point is where it's always been.

I can't find the measurement I'm looking for, the Haynes doesn't mention it anywhere and I can't find a Volvo manual online that does.

EDIT: Found an old thread where RWC said 25mm and another guy said 24 to 25mm. Ordered a new clutch kit because I don't wanna take the trans out again for a long time.
 
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Okay so uh.. Boost gauge is pegging at 20psi. That explains the knock. Might also explain the clutch slip, but I'm not sure cause it still feels weak just puttering around. My boost gauge doesn't have a light and the last few days I've only driven it at night..

It's still too hot to get into the gubbins, but the wastegate appears fine visually. No boost controller.
 
LC4CARL said:
Clutch slip in higher gears only (from increased power)?
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Only first didn't slip.

I put my boost leak tester on it to test the actuator. Found a ripped intercooler connector, fixed that, and my actuator didn't move at all at 20psi. (It's a 15psi actuator) So I took it off the wastegate arm, which moves freely, and it just barely started to move at 20psi.

When I had my trans out I took my manifold off to replace the studs and when I put it back on I pressurized the wastegate line to make popping the actuator arm on easier.. Maybe I used too much pressure and busted it.
 
The torque on the pressure plate bolts is usually something like 18fltlb. It's easy to go past that and if you do you are oompressing the plate. Of course 20psi is gonna make a stock turbo clutch slip. lol.

I over tightened the pressure plate bolts back when I used to work on air cooled VW. Had to take the engine out because of that and replace the now warped pressure plate.
 
dl242gt said:
The torque on the pressure plate bolts is usually something like 18fltlb. It's easy to go past that and if you do you are oompressing the plate. Of course 20psi is gonna make a stock turbo clutch slip. lol.

I over tightened the pressure plate bolts back when I used to work on air cooled VW. Had to take the engine out because of that and replace the now warped pressure plate.
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How the hell does over torquing the pressure plate bolts make it grip the clutch less? That makes no sense to me. I've always done it by hand. I figure the only risk is breaking the bolts.

I took apart my wastegate actuator and the diaphragm was fine, just really oily. Cleaned it up, took out the small spring, and now it makes 13psi. Put some miles on it today and no clutch slip. (At least up to third, haven't been on the highway again yet.)

New problem though..

WOT in second gear sometimes makes this killer squeak/screech noise.. Only in second. And if I take it up near redline shifting out of second is super hard and weird feeling, which is exactly what my M47 was doing on its deathbed.. It's like the shifter is binding up. I never figured out exactly what the cause was in my M47, I just replaced it with an M46.

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I checked fluid level and triple checked clutch adjustment. In addition to what I already said, second is now popping out when I lift.

Guess I'm gonna pop the overdrive unit onto my old gearbox. I seem to remember reading that there's a certain thing you gotta do before you can remove the overdrive unit?
 
Cwazywazy said:
I seem to remember reading that there's a certain thing you gotta do before you can remove the overdrive unit?
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There was something about putting it in reverse and dumping the clutch or similar as I recall. I'm sure someone on the board will know the procedure off the top of their head.
 
I didn't do that for the old trans sitting in the garage and I can't find any info on separating the OD without having done that. Maybe a sledgehammer will work.
 
quillc said:
There was something about putting it in reverse and dumping the clutch or similar as I recall. I'm sure someone on the board will know the procedure off the top of their head.
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This. A quick pop of the clutch in reverse will release the death grip on the splined shaft.
 
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