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1+1=245

dropped of a different head (since this was junk) at the machine shop yesterday. Guy will let me know what's up with it within 7 days

last night I switched out my clutch cable weight thing at the transmission
one on the right is what I had on (standard car)
one on the left is what I put on (tubo car)
jq6i.jpg


also removed these heat shields because they would rattle - early cars didnt even have them
I tried welding them on the the exhaust pipe before but they were were still super noisy so I just decided to cut them out
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I always cut them off if they rattle, plus I think they make the tubes too hot and possibly crack. My 242 had it.

I dont think I ever seen them on the older cars. My 83 58k mile car didnt have it on...
I also have to take off the shield that bends - that one is still rattling

Late model power steering pump installed. I had to reuse the old "low pressure" since the "new" style didnt fit on my zf rack :e-shrug:
70k6.jpg


installed 960 efan with saab temp sensor (from radiator) installed in a Saab fitting
for high speed I installed a radiator push in sensor from a 740.
you can also see how I routed the wiring. High speed sensor ground need to be rerouted
note: that's the temp air filter
a6ir.jpg

7ogq.jpg
 
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Thanks Luke,
84 and up would make sense. Is your 84 b230?

the 83 pipe is the same length but does not line up where the exhaust hanger from the engine block goes into - that hole is off by an inch or so. I tried to swap it over once before so I wouldn't have to cut off those shields.
If I was smarter I would have cut them off when it was off the car:pow:

I am yet to see the high speed come on. It hasn't been warm enough for that to happen. The low speed fan also hardly comes on. Temp gauge is always slightly below 9 o'clock. When it does it's only for 30 seconds or so, but I can feel it pull air when standing in front of the grille. I can't really tell any noise reductions since my exhaust leak is so f... loud
 
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84 was B23, 2nd and and last year of B23. My wifes 87 245 also has that dumb heat shield though and its a b230.
Most guys say to put the temp sensor in the bottom hose, its in the fan conversion thread, in the vault section. Get some bolts off of a 7 or 9 series if you don't want those studs sticking out of the water pump pulley.
I like the later style power steering pump-integral reservoir, I need to get one someday.
 
Get some bolts off of a 7 or 9 series if you don't want those studs sticking out of the water pump pulley.
Plan is to shave them and install the valve cover acorn nuts instead

I like the later style power steering pump-integral reservoir, I need to get one someday.
I have several low mileage ps (early) pumps but this one cleans up the engine bay - every little bit helps.

That sensor will end up in the lower hose when I swap the heads.
before I installed it I tried searching for it for a few min and then gave up looking.
Later found I should have installed it in the lower hose. That damn thread is way too damn long.

Volvo installed theirs in the lower hose also

as far as updates go - heard from the machine shop. Guy says he needs to shave 13 thousandths off and its go go go
took off last part of the heat shield
went in to install my oil pressure sensor adapter (14m to npt whatever it is) Head broke off.... luckily I was able to reverse it out, now I need another one. No picture of this because I kicked it into the alley

Friday I have GT upper braces coming in via TB. I finally gave up and bought a used set since I haven't been able to find any at the yards
I don't know why I'm getting excited about them - I probably wont feel any difference

and since everyone likes pictures....
wkzv.jpg
 
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I hate those stupid heat shields. Sweet ride too.

Thank you
Im still hunting the rattle - driving me a little crazy :grrr:
today I removed - partially loose hallow cat shield and the rattle is still there.....
osjw.jpg


Replaced brake master and booster. My wife told me that a couple of times the brake would go to the floor and "brake failure" light would go on. Im sure it was the master but I decided to replace both and paint them black. Came out the 58k yellow
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I also installed Turbo rain gutters since my original ones were gone.
id84.jpg


I also
- Finally hooked up my "economy" gauge
- rewired the volt gauge. Instead of running + from a fuse box I had it spliced in behind a dash from some random 12v but every time the turn signals would come on the voltage would drop from 13v to 10v. Now its how it should be + from #13 fuse.
- hooked up manual clutch cruise control switch
 
The valve with the sensor is a splitter/brake failure warning valve, not the proportioning valve. Brake fluid should not leak out of the sensor switch. If it does, the valve is bad and needs to be replaced.
 
How did you do this?


ran a T fitting from the mani (has to be behind the throttle body)
connected it to old pcv plastic tube that goes through the firewall
inside I ran a silicone vacuum tube to the gauge.

here are instructions just in case
http://www.240.se/install/3-38-11.pdf

and here is a picture pretty in pink
4hfm.jpg



On your brake fluid check that sensor down on the proportion valve. Mine was loose for some reason and the fluid all leaked out.

wife trying to dispose of you and collect the insurance

The valve with the sensor is a splitter/brake failure warning valve, not the proportioning valve. Brake fluid should not leak out of the sensor switch. If it does, the valve is bad and needs to be replaced.

no trouble from this..................................yet
 
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dude you need to make it up here so I can help you out with some stuff... ie pressure wash your engine

I know! My "old" engine, trans, trans tunnel, rear axle are all grease/oil covered! It's pretty nasty! But that's one of the reasons I'm taking longer with my engine swap. I'm cleaning EVERYTHING!!!
 
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