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Old 09-13-2019, 12:37 PM   #1
K9 240
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Default Another turbo drain thread?

Hi All
I am in the process of building a turbo B200 block to go in my right hand drive 240 and have always planned to use the Yoshifab bung to AN10 connecter etc for the oil drain.
However, I was under the car the other week (having blown the head gasket on my +T) and I noticed that the downpipe I have constructed is less than 2 inches away from the oil drain bung.
Having looked at a 90 degree AN10 fitting this is not going to fit in the available space.
Does anyone know of tighter radius or other fitting that would fit?
I imagine the Yoshifab fitting is also going to stick out a bit which will add to the problem.
My only thought was to drill & tap for a M26 Banjo fitting, but would this flow enough for a gravity fed drain?
Oh - before anyone suggests moving the downpipe, this is a non starter as there is no room. I cunningly constructed a 4" downpipe for my evo twin scroll turbo, which was a "difficult" shape to fit & given the confines of a right hand drive 240 is lucky to be there at all.
Tim
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Old 09-13-2019, 11:34 PM   #2
90volvo
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Im not an expert but doesnt seem like anybody is gonna give you some info. I just did a +T on my 90. I have done alot of reading. I know this for a turbo drain you do not want to use a banjo. If I was you I would buy some exhaust wrap which Im thinking about doing myself the heat the turbo generates is unreal. I also wouldnt do a 90 but think 45 would be OK. After I go mine up and running I had a 45 degree fitting started leaking I couldnt believe the amount of oil it was dumping. Ended being a bad fittlng. So if you buy some fittings buy the good stuff. Also there is some better drain hose out there. That heat wont destroy. Anway hope Ive been of some help.
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Old 09-16-2019, 08:32 AM   #3
klork
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You are going to want the least restrictive drain as possible. If the drain is restrictive the oil will back up in the turbo, overwhelm the oil seals and cause you to consume oil and be smoky. You could heat wrap your down pipe by that tends to rot the pipe out especially if its a daily driver and sees rain. The better option would be to have it ceramic coated. You could even do it yourself. Cerakote even has an air dry coating so you don't need an oven large enough for the downpipe to bake it.
https://www.cerakote.com/finishes/?t...gs&cat=GLACIER
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Old 09-16-2019, 12:35 PM   #4
iHateVolvoPeople
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Here's how I did my last one. Pay no attention to the abortion of the block drain. Barb off the bottom of the turbo, then a no weld 10an fitting in the pan, then another 10an (blue fitting) pushloc fitting that threads onto the pan drain. Makes for a relatively quick removal.

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Old Yesterday, 05:26 AM   #5
K9 240
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Thanks for the replies guys.
90volvo - I think I'm going to get something like this fitting - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-10-AN1...kAAOSwh6xTvCGF
as it looks more compact than a regular 90 fitting. I'll get a 45 degree fitting too & see which one fits best. I'll also try the wrap although this will reduce the room further.
klork - the least restrictive drain is my goal! - and one that fits! The present drain enters the sump below oil level & I think even this restriction makes for smoke when seriously provoked. The downpipe is stainless steel & should wrap ok. I coated the manifold I made from a rattle can but didn't worry about the d/p at the time. Had a quick look on ebay & we don't seem to have Cerakote over here.
iHateVolvoPeople - that looks like the drain I have now! - except no AN10 fittings. As I am buiding up a turbo block I wanted to do it "properly" & put the drain in the right hole! I see you have welded up your drain return - got me thinking now of looking for an alternative spot to drill & tap the block. Maybe you could send me a nickel to cover the drain!
Tim
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Old Yesterday, 08:18 AM   #6
iHateVolvoPeople
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I used a quarter if engine is disassembled and out then I’d certainly do the block return like the factory did. Just drill it properly unlike I did. A block return is cleanest IMO. I didn’t end up actually welding anything, I just added some JB weld on there so it didn’t vibrate loose and to give myself some extra leak protection.
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Old Yesterday, 10:49 AM   #7
K9 240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iHateVolvoPeople View Post
I used a quarter if engine is disassembled and out then Iíd certainly do the block return like the factory did. Just drill it properly unlike I did. A block return is cleanest IMO. I didnít end up actually welding anything, I just added some JB weld on there so it didnít vibrate loose and to give myself some extra leak protection.
AAAAh I see - a proper TB job then!!
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