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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

Are you on the Facebook group? I'm running VTR carbs on my B19A.

I've got a manifold on the way and debating twin strombergs with myself.
 
I am not on the FB group. I prefer forums, haha.

I can only recommend a twin stromberg setup based on what I'm using, which are dual NON-EMISSION ZS carbs. They're pre-69, which means they're adjustable jet models (from the bottom), with fixed solid needles. The ones I'm using are from a B30-based Penta boat engine, and I'm running TR4 '2A' needles, which seem to be working well for the B21A. I have no idea how it would work with dual emissions carbs (anything with a fixed jet height and adjustable needle), but I'm fairly sure it would work too, with tweaking.

I get great fuel economy (I mean it's certainly no worse than the B6304S that was in there before), and while it's not a road-burner, I've been driving it more now than I ever did with the 6 in it.
 
After some (self-induced) teething pains, it's now running on some Dellorto DHLA 40s. The DIY steel manifold works well and doesn't leak, which makes me especially happy since it's the first intake I've ever made. I 3D printed some 25mm velocity stacks (not shown in video) to POSSIBLY allow for filter use, but I may make some 10 or 15mm ones if I ever decide to go that way. There's more space available for filters than with the ZS setup, but the throttle cable standoff really gets in the way.

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Ignore the yellow plug wires with one blue one...there was a misfire check that went wrong. Ordering new wires soon.
 
After waiting far too long for a parcel to come from the UK, and that's totally Canada Post's fault, not the vendor (www.dellorto.co.uk are stellar!)...my car is finally driveable again. Now if we weren't in the middle of a major thunderstorm warning, I'd go out and see what the current tune is like. Soon :).

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Yes, I am a carburetor masochist.
 
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Back to the OG setup...with different carbs and a better linkage.
 
Back to the OG setup...with different carbs and a better linkage.

Single-barrel side drafts. The way Volvo intended.

I might attempt this with my old HS6 SUs if I can get a hold of a rebuild kit... any chance I could force you at gunpoint to make me (or refer me to whoever helped you) a manifold like yours?
 
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I wish I could. I didn't make this manifold, all I did was modify an existing piece. The mid-70s AQ140 actually came with dual solex single-barrel sidedrafts so all I did was add the SU/ZS flange. I had a local welding shop do it for me, since I don't have the technology to weld aluminum.

These 'new' carbs are proving aggravating, since they're not adjustable like the other set I have, and the needles are NOT a great fit for my needs. SUPER rich at idle and rich at cruise, or off-the-scale lean at idle and almost good-ish at cruise if I fudge the needle position in the piston. I may swap the older pistons over into the newer bodies and see what happens.
 
Success! By swapping over to the older pistons with solid needles that were 90% perfect in the other set of ZS carbs, everything is good/acceptable again :). The only issue is that the throttle pedal is HORRIBLE. It takes some force to overcome the initial movement of the throttle, which I think is due to how short the arms are at the carbs and the angle of the linkage I made. I might lengthen the arms, since they're designed for the 144 throttle setup, which is very Rube Goldberg-ian, vs. the cable setup I have. The air/fuel ratio is great though, which was most of my concern :).
 
Added a choke cable using the OEM B21A setup, since the 144S carb setup only attached to one carb instead of two (strange, but it IS a shared/balanced manifold) and I flipped the phenolic spacer around on the other carb since it was blocking the decel valve from working properly. Made a throttle cable setup based on the dual cable linkage I got for the dellortos so that it will be easy to go back to a dual DHLA or DCOE setup one day. I hacked up a spare accelerator pedal to accomodate the cable block and made an adapter at the firewall instead of drilling more holes to pass everything through.

I'm currently trying to figure out a filter setup, and it's going to have to be...interesting. There's just no room at the rear carb for any sort of off-the-shelf product, but I've got some parts coming that might be useable. I had to balance the carbs the old-school 'tube in the ear' way, since thanks to the extra intake port on these carbs for the temperature compensator, the uni-syn doesn't work well. I may add some vacuum ports at the manifold or get a set of phenolic spacers that has ports in them, so I can use the 4-column manometer I have...but for now it's fine.

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The issue is that there is maaaaaaaaaaybe 2.5"-3" of space between the intake of the rear carb and the brake booster, and where the throttle cable comes out of the firewall is right there, leaving about 0.5" of room for anything that travels back towards the firewall. The cables can't really be bent either, so space is at a premium :(. I used some very tight radius 1.75" pipe to make the filter piping and even that stuff (and it's VERY tight radius...) is 1/8" away from the booster.

An airbox would make it look a lot more OEM, but nothing fits :(.
 
What kind of water pump pulley is that? I don't think I've seen a single row one in the wild.
 
Forgive me if this is evident or already answered, but do 240s normally mount their coils on the shock tower? My 144's coil was up on the firewall.

If so, that's convenient routing for the distributor!
 
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There's so much chinese in this picture I feel I should be threatening to annex Taiwan.

I got a second clone weber, and a clone DCOE manifold (it actually says FAJS on it), and I'm going to try to fire it up on the stand. The auto flexplate fits with tons of room, and the starter cranks it all over nicely. I got the starter, penta points dizzy, and penta mech pump from a local buddy who is cleaning out his parts hoard, and I'll bolt on the exh manifold/downpipe later today. The wiring is cake (hooray points!) and I've got a bosch blue coil ready to go.

I went through both carbs and measured each jet with some plug gauges, and everything specs out, except the idle jets. They're listed as 55F8, but are closer to 62-63. That's the same on both carbs, purchased months apart, from different vendors. If I get a chance I'm going to fill the bowls with fuel and try cranking it tonight, but we'll see what happens. It's going to be 40*C here today, after the humidity is factored in, and that's just masochistic in a non-AC'd garage.
 
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Tomorrow should be the big day, I got the NA manifold and downpipe installed, which will at least kill SOME of the sound and direct any noxious gasses away from me, lol. Having a spare engine is always a great thing :).
 
Got it running on the stand after replacing a dead condenser. It still seems...off. It won't idle on it's own, but given I can't get it to operating temp (no cooling system), that's not totally surprising. It's far too loud to run for long so I can't do much tweaking without getting the neighbourhood on my case, lol.
 
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