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4.6 32V 240 Wagon

Driveshaft is back from the shop, shortened with the proper flange and new U joints. Aside from the hammering I did earlier, the only thing I had to do to get it to fit was chop some extra threads off of a bolt protruding through the trans tunnel. After that, I was able to set the height of my trans mount and weld it up. Finally, the entire drivetrain of the car is properly bolted to the body of the car. This bolt belongs to the passenger seat belt anchor, so be careful what you do with it. I could have done a better job measuring the length for the driveshaft and it ended up coming out a little short. It will be ok for now, though.

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I also was able to modify the Volvo gas pedal to work with the Mark VIII throttle cable. I opened up the bent metal with a vice and various round things, then drilled a hole with a slit to work with the Mark VIII throttle cable. Then I reinforced it a little with some extra steel. The lengths actually work out perfectly! Not bad for such a low effort and low cost solution.

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Then I realized something that I can't believe I didn't think of before. The Volvo shifter works opposite of what the 4R70W switch needs. So I thought hmm, I wonder if the Mark VIII shifter will fit? Turns out that after some trimming of the assembly and cutting of the Volvo body, yes, it will fit. I'm not sure exactly how at this time, but I'll figure something out. I'm actually quite ok with this because the Mark VIII shifter is cable driven and will hook directly up to the 4R70W with no trouble at all, so no need to make a linkage system. It's also a very nice shifter in general and has a great feel to it.

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I also cut the front to make room for the Mark VIII radiator. Mounts to come next.

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The next thing on my mind is exhaust. It's going to be quite tight and I plan on using catalytic converters. I was hoping I could have them coming right off the headers, but there simply won't be enough room. I'll have to have them sit under the car parallel to the ground. I've never fabricated an exhaust system before so this should be interesting. The plan is to use as much as I can off of the Mach 1 assembly I showed in one of the first posts and buy the rest. Upstream O2 only on each bank, catalytic converter on each bank, through to the H pipe, and then true dual heading all the way to the back through magnaflow mufflers. Maybe just a dual in dual out if I decide to plumb it that way. It's all up in the air at this point.

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Nice progress man. You'll be on the road pretty soon from the looks of things!

Thanks!

I'm wondering if anyone has some insight regarding rear differentials. I believe my wagon has a 1030 rear end with a 3.73 gear ratio. Given the Mark VIII used a 3.07 ratio diff (3.27 for the LSC models), and the Volvo uses smaller diameter wheel assemblies than the Mark VIII, I'm afraid I'll be turning 2500rpm or more on the highway at 70mph. I'd like to get better fuel economy than that. I know the 240 was sold with a 3.31 axle ratio in some models. How do I go about getting this in my car? Do I need to buy an entire rear axle assembly or are these parts that I can change through the diff cover? Is there anything available that's a lower ratio than 3.31?
 
The 3.31 is the lowest I am aware of. With that much HP available you really need at least that. My 240 HP 302 spins the right rear tire if I am not careful on dry pavement and it has the Diesel 3.31 axle. Remember, you have smaller tires now.

Changing the entire rear end is the simplest solution. That will give you an opportunity to change all the 30 year old bushings back there.

What did you do about torque rods? I had to create adjustable ones to get all the vibration out of the drive line.
 
.... I'm afraid I'll be turning 2500rpm or more on the highway at 70mph..... Is there anything available that's a lower ratio than 3.31?

Run the calcs....they'll help you decide what you want to do. You'll need to know the OD gear ratio in the tranny. If you switch to the Ford 8.8" -- a 'higher' 3.27 and 3.08 is available. Your 2500 estimate is pretty close. My brother had a 940 with 5.0L/4r70w with 3.73's - it ran about 2500 at 70.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/gear-speed.php
 
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My last around town tank was 20.1 — consistently 19-20 mpg around Charlotte. Mid-high twenties on the highway. About the same mileage as the stock 2.1 got. All stock LS3/stock ecu. 3.55’s, 2100 rpm @ 70
 
My last around town tank was 20.1 ? consistently 19-20 mpg around Charlotte. Mid-high twenties on the highway. About the same mileage as the stock 2.1 got. All stock LS3/stock ecu. 3.55?s, 2100 rpm @ 70

Im getting 12 city lm7 and maybe 18-20 highway. Im loving my 2700 rpm at 80. At 80 with my getrag I might of been 3100-3200
 
My old-school '94 Roadmaster gets 24-25mpg highway. That's a big dumb old Gen2 5.7L V8 that should be worse than Gen3/Gen4 5.3L guys are getting. It's a 4L60E auto with 2.56 gears. The body is streamlined nicely, yes, but has a lot of frontal area compared to a smaller 240, and it's longer too. So total drag may be similar. My point is a 4.6L naturally aspirated automatic 245 should be able to get mid-20s or higher with the right gearing.

If decent highway fuel economy is a target, then Aidan is on the right track going to a taller (numerically lower) final drive. No point in constraining yourself to worse mileage "because it's a V8."
 
If decent highway fuel economy is a target, then Aidan is on the right track going to a taller (numerically lower) final drive. No point in constraining yourself to worse mileage "because it's a V8."

AND -- while the longer rear gear will aid the highway mileage with a big, lazy torque monster, the shorter gear will help in town mileage a bit. So, it's a bit of give and take. Even with the long OD's some trannies have, rear gearing in the (using gears available for my rearend) 3.08-3.55 range should offer a decent compromise with reasonably efficient V8 power. Suspect if Aidan keeps the revs below 2500 at 70, 25+ mpg on the highway is within reach. That was the case with my brother's 940 -- 25-26 mpg at a steady 70 mph/2500 rpm.

'Course, many of the V8 Volvo lot are running a lot more cam, often looser converters and turbos -- with predictable mileage results.
 
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3.15 gear is the lowest and rarest of the stock ones. You can buy lower aftermarket ratios but I've heard they have some whine and you can't adjust it away. I'd try 3.31 and see how it goes.

Swapped the 4.6l 2V and TR-3650, which I had in 242 and V90, into a -68 LTD Country Squire with 2.75 gears. Even that basic engine has so much low end torque that I don't need first gear if I want to take off smoothly on a level ground. And it weighs 2 tons/4400lbs without the driver :lol: Still accelerates pretty nicely.
 
If decent highway fuel economy is a target, then Aidan is on the right track going to a taller (numerically lower) final drive. No point in constraining yourself to worse mileage "because it's a V8."

Right. Thanks guys.

The Mark VIII with the 3.27, like the one I had from 2008 to 2017, turns just above 2k rpm at 70 mph while the 3.07, like my donor, turns just under 2k at 70. I was able to get high 20s highway with my Mark VIII. If I'm being optimistic, this may be possible in the 245 with the correct gearing because yes, the Volvo is less aerodynamic, but the mark VIII is much heavier.

The question I was asking was around how, from a technical point of view, you change the diff. Sounds like Tom has answered that, so I will causally look around for a 3.31 axle since that's the easiest option for now. Till then, I'll run the 3.73 and see how it goes.
 
Around town weight impacts mileage more, not so much on the highway. Except for that trip where you’re moving from Houston to Denver.
 
I really dig this swap. Love Ford stuff as long as I don't have to work on it.

But can someone explain to me why there are so many 300hp + swaps in seemingly nothing but vaggons? ...and coupes.

4DOORS!!!!
 
I really dig this swap. Love Ford stuff as long as I don't have to work on it.

But can someone explain to me why there are so many 300hp + swaps in seemingly nothing but vaggons? ...and coupes.

4DOORS!!!!

People love the 2 doors for the rarity and sportiness and the wagons for the extra quirkiness and practicality. I chose the 4 door as the best compromise between the two.

Been loving this thread, by the way, as I am planning a DOHC modular based engine as well and love watching someone else overcome the obstacles before I get to them. :)
 
People love the 2 doors for the rarity and sportiness and the wagons for the extra quirkiness and practicality. I chose the 4 door as the best compromise between the two.

Been loving this thread, by the way, as I am planning a DOHC modular based engine as well and love watching someone else overcome the obstacles before I get to them. :)

That's a good way of summing it up. For me, I grew up really liking the wagons. My uncle and older cousin each had one through the 90s.

I'm glad you're enjoying the journey and I'm happy to blaze these trails for you and others. We need more Ford modular swaps in this world in general. I've been quite busy in the last month and I'm hoping to make some good consistent progress in the coming weeks.
 
I made an adapter plate for the hydroboost using some scrap 3/4" aluminum and some help from the tool room at work. The pushrod on the hydroboost needs to be shortened still before it all fits together.

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Not too much to report, but I did put the front back on for the first time in a long time for radiator fit testing. I also found out the Mark VIII air box will not clear the headlight! So, big K&N cone it is.

I scored a 100' roll of 2awg wire last week so I'm going to be using that to relocate the battery. More on that later - parts are on the way.

For now, I'm just really psyched to see this picture. This is the most "real" it's looked in a long time. I will note that nothing in this picture is truly mounted except for the engine. The cruise control module will live where the battery used to.

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And these fresh headlight lenses look awesome!

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