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ARP head stud and bolt kits

i wasnt really interested in main studs but i thought if head stud kits were made available in the catalog and not just as a call-in thing, more people would purchase them. the more sets purchased from them, the lower the price will get.

so, John, do you have the specs for the head studs? i know you are full of exacting measurements for redblocks.
just buy them from him. It might cost you like $15 but you know you're getting something right.
 
i think the donkey work may already have been done .

http://www.stenparnermotor.se/default.aspx?NodeId=55


Fairly hilarious prices on the ARP rod bolts.

And be careful there assuming as I did that it's all ARP things for the mains and heads.
Notice he has ARP next to just a few things, and they're insanely dear.
The pinnbult till vev (main stud) and topplock (head) are half the price of the ARP rod bolts and as a dealer that ain't the way things are, rather reversed+.

Thus we can only conclude the pinnbults aren't ARP, but some unknown things.

Anybody want to try to get an answer from Herr Parn?r who makes the studs and what grade they are
800 SEK for unknown stuff..
Nej tack!
 
just buy them from him. It might cost you like $15 but you know you're getting something right.

but don't you see, if they are added to the catalog, people will search and find them in google, people who don't know JohnV, production will go up and prices will go down.

somewhere down the line the vdub folks got ARP to make a place for them in the catalog and it's why the price for the vdub kits have come way down. you can order a set of vdub head studs directly from the catalog, have them shipped and delivered in a few days.

i want to see volvo in there.
 
When one has an engine in the machine shop for cylinder boring and piston fitting, shouldn't the head plate (I'm assuming one will be used during boring) be torqued on with the bolts or studs threaded in the block to the depth they will be when the actual mofo head is on the engine? Just wondering....
 
i wasnt really interested in main studs but i thought if head stud kits were made available in the catalog and not just as a call-in thing, more people would purchase them. the more sets purchased from them, the lower the price will get.

so, John, do you have the specs for the head studs? i know you are full of exacting measurements for redblocks.

You know they only have so much room in their catalogs and over the years I've told my contact guy a number of interchanges from the Cologne V4 and V6s and even Pinto 2,0 (made in Cologne on the next engine line over from the old 60 degree Vs) such as Same dimensions for Ford V4 and V6 head biolts, main bolts and Pinto, and therefore Cosworth mains. Or that Big Block Chrysler bolts make a good substitute for the Saab 2,0 OHC and DOHC rod bolts (and being Mr. Cross-referencing World Champion, I can say WORLD NEWSFLASH!!! Saam and Volvo rods, the biggest diff being the overall length, share same NUT, and there's a big chance the BOLT interchanges, so therefore the Big Block Chrysler rod bolt would likely be a good B21/B23 rod bolt.)

Some made it into the catalogs for a while but then disappeared, oh well.
There's only so much room.

These studs for the 8v are already exsisting studs, good on the one hand but bad since they are are way WAY higher spec material than any Volvo will EVER need, but I can say now (I already asked) no point in pursuing a bespoke package or a catalog listing, there isn't the volume of demand.

The 16v is already packaged up as the worthy successor to the Volvo 240 in BTCC and ETCC, but the stud kit needs three spacers made for the 3 center bolt registers on the intake side which are some distance shorter, so rather than waste time looking for a shorter stud, I make a spacer to raise the bolt register UP to the same hgt of the other 7.

I have included these spacers in the past at no charge still beating other published prices for just the headstud kit.
 
Mains bolts are BIG, they have a simple job and holding two similar metals together isn't too rough especially as BIG and as "M twelvey" as they are.
The only reason I could think about MAIN studs is if I was doing main straps or a main girdle and needed a different length.
You guys, seriously, mains studs on these motors is kinda overkill.


So, who's making a girdle?? :oogle:
 
When one has an engine in the machine shop for cylinder boring and piston fitting, shouldn't the head plate (I'm assuming one will be used during boring) be torqued on with the bolts or studs threaded in the block to the depth they will be when the actual mofo head is on the engine? Just wondering....


The whole Torque plate thing being needed comes back to the nearness of the bolt holes to the bore and where the threads are ie near the deck surface of deeper into the block.
One of the 4x4 Cossie blocks i built had been machined so the studs were extra long and threaded in down by the mainline and this was done cause the block was meatier in the mainlaine than the deck.

next time you see a SBChev look how close the bolts are to the bore.

Strictly speaking YES you should use the fasteners and gaskets etc blah blah.

But that's presuming you determined by actual dial bore-gaging the bores and checked and noted distortion.
 
When one has an engine in the machine shop for cylinder boring and piston fitting, shouldn't the head plate (I'm assuming one will be used during boring) be torqued on with the bolts or studs threaded in the block to the depth they will be when the actual mofo head is on the engine? Just wondering....

Funny, the new MS I used for the fresh motor requested the specific bolts or studs I was going to use for the torque plate. Once he had the hardware, he called ARP directly, got the torque specs from them, and torqued them to that spec prior to honing the bores.
 
I like head studs because you can screw them all the way to the bottom of the female threads. If you use the permanent Loctite, they get even stronger and less likely to pull the block metal up around each stud.

Also, you can torque them more accurately since you are torquing fine threads.

Small block Chevys have the bolt holes closer to the bore, but there are 5 or 6 bolts around each bore and not the 4 that Volvo engines have.
 
I like head studs because you can screw them all the way to the bottom of the female threads. If you use the permanent Loctite, they get even stronger and less likely to pull the block metal up around each stud.

If you use Loc-tite, you're not reading what the fastener manufacturers say about their stuff.

Also, you can torque them more accurately since you are torquing fine threads.

The accuracy is a function of the tool being used, but fine threads allow higher torque for a given outer diameter (cause fine threads are shallower, diameter of the uncut material is lager than a coarse thread)
Small block Chevys have the bolt holes closer to the bore, but there are 5 or 6 bolts around each bore and not the 4 that Volvo engines have.

5 or 6 to distort the bore!
 
AU6.32LB x 10. Metric nuts x 10. OE washers (early female head head bolts have the ones you want) seem better suited than anything ARP makes.
Cummins diesel. They are the standard 190Kpsi material, no need to make stuff up, John.

I have two sets of studs & bolts in stock, you'd have to source your own washers. Something like 170, plus ~18 for freight, like JVAB says.

My four letter login @ hotmail.com is Paypal.
 
ARP Head Studs for B230

It took me a while to get this figured out so I thought I would pass it along. Here are the part numbers for the studs, washers and nuts that fit my 1994 B230FT:

AU6.320-2LB - CUMMINS 24V Head Stud (qty 10)
300-8307 - M12x1.25 12PT NUT STD COLLAR (qty 10)
200-8500 - M12ID .875OD BLACK WASHER (qty 10)
100-9908 - ARP ULTRA TORQUE LUBE 0.5 OZ (qty 1)

Enjoy.
 
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