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DET17's "Project cheap thrills" - '92 944T

Your attention to detail is very settling for an OCD'er like myself. Good stuff!

My Dad always fussed at me about my OCD tendencies. I told him, "Don't be mad at me, have pity!" I wish it were a choice.... but I have to do things that way.... if I want to sleep at night.
 
YOSHIFAB stiffened rear subframe

Well, the MIG weld out of the rear subframe is completed. Here are some of the last plates tacked up on the remaining portion of the frame:



I welded out the 5 plate kit from YOSHIFAB. I must say, my MIG skills improved a bit and I was happier with my final welds more so that the first round. The 1/16" plates cleaned up with my angle grinder and sandpaper. Your MIG welds will improve when you carefully clean both pieces of steel prior to laying down the weld. NOTE - you must very carefully locate these reinforcement plates, so not to interfere with the articulation of the torque links which attach to the 1041 rear end. It's not hard to visualize.... measure the center to center of the links as they attach to the rear.... center distance of approx. 8.5 inches. Move the links in parallel, and it will be obvious where to locate the stiffening plates ;-)

The way the YOSHIFAB reinforcement kit works, you've got one side of the frame that is damn difficult to paint or powder coat. I decided that "rust prevention" was adequate for my use of the DD.... there would be no hero points for powder coating a suspension frame that wouldn't be seen again. So to meet the need, I busted out my ancient supply of 395-A metal preservative.

But first... here is the finished REINFORCED subframe, all slathered up (in and out) with this rust prevention applied:



I've had this gallon of the rust preventative, oh, since the late 70's! Yup, I'm that old :lol:
This material is likely banned today.... but it damn sure works. Stays pliable for years, as I've gone back a decade later and when pressure is applied you can still feel this material "move" a bit. It skins over but never completely hardens or cracks. When I was tipped to use this material from old dirt farmers in Ohio, they told me this was the choice to rust proof steel bridges against salt corrosion. Here are the recommended uses, from the ENSIGN Company of Cleveland Ohio, likely long gone:



I guess I should go ahead and assign the heir that will receive what is left of this gallon, when I kick the bucket. 395-A rules! Just don't breathe the fumes.... I took it outside to gas off.



Hopefully tomorrow night I will have the subframe bolted back into the 940, awaiting install of the rear end.
 
Today I was able to finish the install of the reinforced subframe.

First, a TIP of the hat to YOSHIFAB, who designed/built the reinforcement kit for the 7/9 rear subframe. I can appreciate the work he put into the design.... subtle details including a relief for the parking brake cable routing. My subframe was beginning to buckle... and I had to straight it a bit just to get the reinforcement kit clamped up and tacked. Even without a manual, I am making enough torque that the stock design had begun to deform. I'd recommend this reinforcement kit wholeheartedly...... it's not the "finite element design" subframe that BNE (Kalplhenke) builds, but I feel there is more value in reinforcing the stock system for most enthusiasts.

Here are some pics of the finished unit, installed into position. I used vaseline on the male pins which locate the rear of the frame into the rubber suspension mounts (it is darn tight and took serious persuasion to get those pins pushed completely in). As noted earlier, be careful when you tack these plates into position, as you could change the widths dims. at the various bolting points and making the unit useless.







I'm confident this subframe will handle all the torque that I'll be throwing at it!
 
I'm sure you are very knowledgeable on the subject already, but I've read of folks flipping the torque rod bushings 90 degrees to move where the void in the bushing is. That way the toque load is at least on the solid portion of the bushing. Or did you just have plans to replace them? Also curious on if the subframe bushings were in need of replacement or were in good shape?
 
I'm sure you are very knowledgeable on the subject already, but I've read of folks flipping the torque rod bushings 90 degrees to move where the void in the bushing is. That way the toque load is at least on the solid portion of the bushing. Or did you just have plans to replace them? Also curious on if the subframe bushings were in need of replacement or were in good shape?

The bushings pressed into the chassis mount have no void, and mine were tight. Those in the "dogbone" torque rods I won't replace..... I swapped in the parts from a 125K mile 94 wagon (donor for my drivetrain) and they look AOK to me. If you've ever pressed any of those bushings, they can be a real bugger. Nope, no replacements until I hear some KLUNK sounds under WOT acceleration. My experience with poly is increased NVH in the vehicle.... I won't do that on my Grandpa (PawPaw) sedan. ;-)
 
Working to wrap up the B21EFI intake. I was short one single vacuum connection port (I will detail what goes WHERE later), and decided to drill & tap 1/8-27 NPT in the blank boss seen in this picture.... for the turbo boost gauge. Clamped to my 35 year old work bench and ready:



The NPT taps typically require a tapered reamer so they can tap easier. I don't own those, but learned that 1/8 can be drilled with a Q drill. $9 later from Fastenal and we drill the tap hole (I used progressive sizes up, in an attempt to keep it "straight" by hand). I used the drill & tap lubricant shown. This location is thick, more than 12mm / 1/2" wall of the intake. Drilled:



Machinist forums list two suggestions for tapping NPT. First, when done proper, you should be able to finger thread 3~4 threads by hand. Next, when the tap is at the proper depth, you should have 6~7 threads of the TAP showing. Tricky work.... making tapered threads in a straight hole. Go SLOW and keep backing the tap to clean the threads cut.... I stopped every 1/4 turn max. The finished threaded hole:



and the installed fitting for my boost gauge (it "feeds" in that direction, most logical source):



Since this is a DD, I'm not spending the coin for powder coat. After a bit of study on the web, I decided to prime & paint the intake with self etching primer (recommended for Aluminium) and "cast aluminum" paint. I can provide PNs to anyone who is interested. This finish has good recommendations across all breeds of intakes.





Next I'll do the FINAL install of all vacuum connection fittings, and finalize the throttle linkage "crank arm & linkage". Looking forward to having this damn thing installed for good.
 
3" Downpipe extension & CAT

Decided to fire up the MIG and stay with it today..... I previously had the 3"DP roughed out with help of a buddy, who TIG welded the stainless flex pipe to the rigid aluminized steel DP. I don't have a TIG yet, and this guy can flat weld, so I farmed out the first step to him.

I purchased a Walker 3" High flow CAT previously, and needed to join it to the DP with a 3" V-band flange & clamp setup. I also need a new stainless bung installed for the AEM wideband sensor. I took some careful dims under the car, so I could size the 3" DP extension. I also wanted to locate the CAT under the factory heat shield, as much as possible, to make use of what was there and keep from baking my carpeting. After a couple rounds of measurements, I fired up the Metabo cutoff wheel and squared off an eleven inch piece of JEGS aluminized 1/16" wall steel exhaust pipe.

To get the V-band flanges over this 3" exhaust pipe, I had to buff off the aluminized coating on the pipe, and then tap the flanges onto the steel pipe. Once the MIG was dialed in, I welded the V-band flanges, one to the DP extension, and the other to the CAT inlet pipe.

Here is the DP extension with CAT roughed into position:





Well I'm glad now for the flex pipe extension... the 3" DP was slightly off target on the route of the exhaust pipe. You can see the slight angle change to hit to original path of the exhaust:



This last pic shows the original exhaust mount which originates near the AW71 rear mount. I don't think I'm going to use that one, as it doesn't seem substantial enough for the weight of the 3 inch DP and mating pipes with CAT. I'm considering to use one of the crossmember bolts to support a custom exhaust mount. I'll have to dimension this carefully, and next round of exhaust work I should have the custom mount to carry the weight of the CAT.

 
AC condenser install

While my original '92 AC condenser didn't have any leaks in it, there was accumulated damage & blockage caused by thousands of gravel & sand bits. I searched for awhile for NOS, but couldn't locate any. I finally decided to purchase a NISSEN replacement #94165.... not an ideal solution (Taiwan), but an acceptable solution. Here is the front view of the nice new condenser installed:



The unit took some persuasion to get installed. The do88 intercooler is considerably thicker than the original unit. With the AC condenser installing back into the factory spot, I was worried there was going to be a space collision. There WAS, but I was able to overcome it.

The pass. side NISSENs mount had to be flattened (vice and hammer) so to project the mounting pin further aft. The OE setup has a W-fold in the steel mount for rigidity..... however this can't be retained and reach the original mounting holes. Have a look at these mounts, and you will see the attachment plate screw heads are in direct contact with the do88 IC.

Here is the reworked pass. side mount, and screw collisions:





Here see the drivers side mount, and screw heads in contact:



The top of the do88 IC also needed drilled to create the attachment points to the radiator. This wasn't very difficult, as the IC is made of aluminum. I'm glad to have this bit of work behind me...... and am busy rounding up all the O-rings and other bits necessary to reassemble the AC system completely.
 
3 inch DP details

Working to wrap up the new 3inch down pipe.

While most of the TB herd is busy drilling out their 90+ intakes so they can upsize with 10mm studs to carry the DP, I don't see the need for them SO LONG as you retain the original engineered solution for support of the pipe.... the BH stud mount band clamp.

I thought about sectioning the original stainless strap and welding in a plate to increase the diameter to 3". Decided it was excessive work (considering what I've got left to do), if I could just find a band clamp of the proper size.

eBay to the rescue:



These 3" band clamps are clones of the original "Accuseal" versions. Certainly Chinese copies, but they had the same design concept as the originals. I stripped out the funky custom bolt, and tried to fit the unit. Wouldn't clear the BH stud (12mm), so I had to break out the Makita die grinder and my carbide bit. Thankfully there was quite a bit of unused area in the doubled over "hoop" portion of the clamp, so I slotted her out to the safe limit. Back into position, and this time it appears it will go. Took some tricky clamping with a pair of needle nose vice grips, but it clears that mounting stud. Found a metal 12mm flanged locknut (no NYLOCK for this application) and bolted her together.

Very pleased with the outcome.... a rock solid support of the 3" DP:







With the band support complete, I pulled the DP back out so my machinist buddy can TIG weld the last section behind the flex pipe. Once done I'll thermal tape the top section of the DP to keep the heat soak off my AC lines & filter/dryer, and will mount the rascal (hopefully) for the last time.
 
While most of the TB herd is busy drilling out their 90+ intakes so they can upsize with 10mm studs to carry the DP, I don't see the need for them SO LONG as you retain the original engineered solution for support of the pipe.... the BH stud mount

If you're running the standard Mitisubishi turbo, sure its fine. If you're running a T3/T4 turbo, it is wise to upgrade the studs on manifold. Have people run turbos without upgrading studs? Yes, but it doesn't mean you should. Its very simple to do. In additional to installing larger studs, you should fabricate a band/bracket so that it mounts to bell housing. Using a flex section in the down pipe also helps relieve some stress that is put on the down pipe during normal operation. Of which you have done and it looks excellent.
 
If you're running the standard Mitisubishi turbo, sure its fine. If you're running a T3/T4 turbo, it is wise to upgrade the studs on manifold. Have people run turbos without upgrading studs? Yes, but it doesn't mean you should. Its very simple to do. In additional to installing larger studs, you should fabricate a band/bracket so that it mounts to bell housing. Using a flex section in the down pipe also helps relieve some stress that is put on the down pipe during normal operation. Of which you have done and it looks excellent.

I'm not planning to run any calcs to verify their strength; certainly the cast iron is the fuse. My TD04 turbine housing came with clearance holes for M8s, not M10. I don't know how heavy the larger turbos are and don't intend to go larger on the DD. Thanks for the 7cm flat flange housing you sold me, you can see it will go to good use!
 
Working to wrap up the new 3inch down pipe.

While most of the TB herd is busy drilling out their 90+ intakes so they can upsize with 10mm studs to carry the DP, I don't see the need for them SO LONG as you retain the original engineered solution for support of the pipe.... the BH stud mount band clamp.

I thought about sectioning the original stainless strap and welding in a plate to increase the diameter to 3". Decided it was excessive work (considering what I've got left to do), if I could just find a band clamp of the proper size.

eBay to the rescue:



These 3" band clamps are clones of the original "Accuseal" versions. Certainly Chinese copies, but they had the same design concept as the originals. I stripped out the funky custom bolt, and tried to fit the unit. Wouldn't clear the BH stud (12mm), so I had to break out the Makita die grinder and my carbide bit. Thankfully there was quite a bit of unused area in the doubled over "hoop" portion of the clamp, so I slotted her out to the safe limit. Back into position, and this time it appears it will go. Took some tricky clamping with a pair of needle nose vice grips, but it clears that mounting stud. Found a metal 12mm flanged locknut (no NYLOCK for this application) and bolted her together.

Very pleased with the outcome.... a rock solid support of the 3" DP:







With the band support complete, I pulled the DP back out so my machinist buddy can TIG weld the last section behind the flex pipe. Once done I'll thermal tape the top section of the DP to keep the heat soak off my AC lines & filter/dryer, and will mount the rascal (hopefully) for the last time.

great idea! going to use it.
 
So, I was trying to steal your bracket idea for your Bosch coil, and I tried to buy the misumi tall hex nuts you suggested. I found them with your part number, but I have to say what a difficult website to navigate. Eventually, it told me they do not sell to the general public, and I had to be a business. I didn't have any luck finding anything similar on Google either. Any suggestions?
 
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I ordered mine via our local MOTION Industries rep. (who sells Millions a year to my company). I'd suggest going with the PN to your local FASTENAL and see if they can get them for you..... betting YES, they can.
 
B21EFI Intake final install; throttle body overhaul

Time for an Xmas update on the project. The throttle body overhaul was delayed as I waited on the Volvo Webstore to deliver the throttle plate attachment screws; they have an unusual feature where they are "V'd" after install, so they will not loosen/fall out. It took 4 weeks to get these screws! I'd previously cleaned the TB in my ultrasonic bath, but waited impatiently for the parts. Here is the finished TB, assembled and ready to attach:



Many thanks to DEK2688 for the tip about this throttle body: it has the smaller TB bore for crisp response, the 4 bolt pattern like the larger 3" 960/850 NA version, and also has the hose barbs for the emission control lines to burn the fumes off the fuel tank. This TB is a little obscure.... came on a 10 valve 850 sold in the UK and Europa; none I believe reached North America. I found this one online in Lithuania, and it only took about 2 weeks to get here.

The winning combination to make this TB play nice with LH2.4 is as follows:

1. the subject 850 TB
2. a B234 throttle plate shaft & throttle plate
3. tap the M4 screws for attachment of the LH2.4 TPS to the casting
4. a K-Jet 240 TB actuation lever (which I welded to the original from the 850 TB for the stop)

This assembly points the LH2.4 TPS downward, so the stock connector will reach. Your must drill & tap the M4 threads into the casting to allow adjustment so the "click" of the TPS occurs when the throttle is closed. I'll be running new hoses to the charcoal canister, as this TB points the barbs towards the firewall. A small price to pay to take care of those fumes in the tank (my tree hugger tendencies coming thru). Here some detailed pics of the components of the hybrid TB:




I reiterate: you MUST USE the K-Jet TB crank arm, in order for proper function of the linkage with the 240 K-Jet 3 drum (or single drum) spool.

For grins, here is a comparison of the 3 inch NA TB (which can support 400 HP) and the standard 2.5" Turbo TB (which supports 305HP and has crisp throttle response.... you decide):



Fully assembled you can see the throttle actuation with the 240 K-jet spool closed, then fully actuated (to the stop):




Finally, the long awaited last install of the B21EFI intake:



With the intake finally complete, I went back to the 3 inch DP, which needed heat tape wrapping the upper section to prevent heat soak into my AC lines and the dryer/receiver. I used the DEI "titanium wrap", secured with quality Swedish hose clamps. Once the DP was insulated, I connected the previously reviewed bell housing 3" band strap and the V-band up top. Here is the final installed DP, sans O2 sensor which will be installed later:



Next - I'll finalize the custom DP hanger aft of the flex joint which I built to carry the CAT; the exhaust will be roadworthy, so once "Cheap Thrills" is running I'll drive to the local exhaust shop to get a transition pipe from the exit of the CAT to the TME pipes.
 
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