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Old 02-12-2019, 06:12 PM   #451
JimmyMelbs
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Pull from old igniter. That worked for me.
Thanks!!
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Old 02-12-2019, 06:12 PM   #452
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And since I kept the old ignitor in place i pulled power from the old coil
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My build thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=340910
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:34 PM   #453
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Anybody having issues with the Bosch Motorsport coil? My first lasted a week and now I've just had my second in a row fail on me after a month and I'm starting to wonder if there's another root cause here. Both times it was during a huge rainstorm but all the connectors are full of dielectric grease and have rubber boots.
I've tried searching for causes of repeat coil failures but Google isn't finding me much that seems relevant. I'm going to have to keep track of which side of the coil is going bad to see if there's a pattern.

I've mounted it above the valvecover on a bracket I made to bolt to the old distributor mounting holes and hold my wideband plug, ignition module/amplifier, and coil. I've seen others mount it above the valvecover via the valvecover bolts so maybe my bracket has too much vibration?

bracket: https://imgur.com/a/LxFaqUm

EDIT: Problem vanished overnight. Hooked up oscilloscope and found perfect signals so I took it all off and found a bunch of water mixed with the dielectric grease. Revised bracket to correct positioning of the ignition amplifier, hopefully for good this time:https://imgur.com/a/9rD65re

Last edited by bmos; 02-26-2019 at 06:35 PM..
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Old 02-25-2019, 02:37 PM   #454
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I'm currently stuck with no grounding from the ignition modules (I'm using two standard modules as I bought a new one to test previously and found both to be working fine.) I've added my voltage readings below with ignition on. Has anyone else taken these voltages so I could compare?

5V - 5.3v
VR - 2.4v
1-4 - 7.7v to 8.2v back and forth
2-3 - 6.9v to 7.4v back and forth
Spark - 0.33v
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Old 02-28-2019, 09:17 PM   #455
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I've never installed one of these, but since no one else has replied, I'll take a guess.

Your 7volt / 8volt whatever measurements are way too high. I think those should be logic level outputs of 5volts, or less on average. You could unplug your WS-to-ignitor cables and re-measure, or check that the ground on your ignitor modules are good. I'm wondering if the ignitor ground isn't connected, but ignitor +12v is connected, and that the +12v is raising the WS output voltages.
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Old 02-28-2019, 09:39 PM   #456
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Originally Posted by 105Charlie View Post
I'm currently stuck with no grounding from the ignition modules (I'm using two standard modules as I bought a new one to test previously and found both to be working fine.) I've added my voltage readings below with ignition on. Has anyone else taken these voltages so I could compare?

5V - 5.3v
VR - 2.4v
1-4 - 7.7v to 8.2v back and forth
2-3 - 6.9v to 7.4v back and forth
Spark - 0.33v
The 1-4 and 2-3 output voltages should never be above ~2.5V. So yes, it appears something has been wired incorrectly.

Can you explain what you mean by "I'm currently stuck with no grounding from the ignition modules" please?

If you have time, take a clear photo of your EZK with the board wired in, and post it here.
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Old 03-12-2019, 10:21 AM   #457
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The 1-4 and 2-3 output voltages should never be above ~2.5V. So yes, it appears something has been wired incorrectly.

Can you explain what you mean by "I'm currently stuck with no grounding from the ignition modules" please?

If you have time, take a clear photo of your EZK with the board wired in, and post it here.
Ended up being a failing EZK, it had been struggling on and off for a while with ignition problems. Unfortunately, one of the pads on the wasted spark board came loose on removal from the old EZK so I've ordered another!
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Old 03-27-2019, 03:36 AM   #458
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Hey guys I'm not getting any spark. Anyone else had this problem?
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Old 03-28-2019, 06:23 PM   #459
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Hey guys I'm not getting any spark. Anyone else had this problem?
Keep following the issue back. You could have a bad amplifier, coils, or wiring issue. I used an oscilloscope when I was diagnosing my install but a simple test light gets you 80% of the way there.
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Old 03-30-2019, 03:32 AM   #460
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Keep following the issue back. You could have a bad amplifier, coils, or wiring issue. I used an oscilloscope when I was diagnosing my install but a simple test light gets you 80% of the way there.
I don't have one of those unfortunately.
Tried multiple coils and amplifier.
Getting 12v at injectors, coil, power stage
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Old 03-30-2019, 10:49 PM   #461
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Check your wiring. Also try running off the stock ignition side if you haven't removed those components yet to make sure your ezk didn't get goofed during the soldering.
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Old 03-31-2019, 02:05 PM   #462
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Removed stock stuff unfortunately
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Old 03-31-2019, 04:21 PM   #463
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Work backwards. If you have to open up your ezk box and check wiring/solders, so be it. I went in and redid a couple solders on mine after it wasn't running strongly.
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Old 04-14-2019, 08:54 PM   #464
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I don't have one of those unfortunately.
Tried multiple coils and amplifier.
Getting 12v at injectors, coil, power stage
Power stage gets constant ground, not 12v. It takes the pulsed voltage from the EZK and switches on/off the ground signal to the coils. The coils get 12v constant with key on.
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Old 04-24-2019, 10:41 AM   #465
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I wired up the new board a while back and it's all working flawlessly. However, I can't get the tacho to work, I've tried using the provided diagram but no luck. So to clarify...

Original EZK signal wire to ignition module has a 1k resistor added, which then connects to the middle leg of the transistor. One leg goes to ground, the other to a Y - one to the relay, the other to the tacho. Finally connect the switched 12v to the other side of the relay.

Is that correct? Everything else working great, just can't get the tach going.
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Old 04-30-2019, 11:49 AM   #466
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Originally Posted by 105Charlie View Post
I wired up the new board a while back and it's all working flawlessly. However, I can't get the tacho to work, I've tried using the provided diagram but no luck. So to clarify...

Original EZK signal wire to ignition module has a 1k resistor added, which then connects to the middle leg of the transistor. One leg goes to ground, the other to a Y - one to the relay, the other to the tacho. Finally connect the switched 12v to the other side of the relay.

Is that correct? Everything else working great, just can't get the tach going.
That's way more complicated than it needs to be. I just took the original ignition coil out and replaced it with a relay (with the contact removed so it's quiet). Then I had a working tach. Then, completely separately, I put a 960 ignition module by the coil on my valvecover with inputs coming from the ezk board. This now unrelated system gave me working dual-channel ignition.
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Old 04-30-2019, 03:28 PM   #467
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That's way more complicated than it needs to be. I just took the original ignition coil out and replaced it with a relay (with the contact removed so it's quiet). Then I had a working tach. Then, completely separately, I put a 960 ignition module by the coil on my valvecover with inputs coming from the ezk board. This now unrelated system gave me working dual-channel ignition.
The main reason I didn't do it this way is that I removed the original ignition module as I used the heatsink for the new 960 module. I was following the diagram on the first page of this post
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Old 05-02-2019, 07:28 PM   #468
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The main reason I didn't do it this way is that I removed the original ignition module as I used the heatsink for the new 960 module. I was following the diagram on the first page of this post
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012P2EQU was pretty easy to modify to fit the 960 module. If you're set on getting rid of that 'extra' module, let's check some basics since your description of your setup sounds good (although I can't personally verify what resistor ohms are appropriate). What transistor did you get? Any chance it's PNP and not NPN? Or, maybe you have the collector and emitter wires backwards?
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:06 PM   #469
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Alright guys...so I've been running my wasted spark setup for just shy of a year now; and now I've run into some issues

Link to my nonperformance thread...
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=349030

90 740 lh2.4
Miata J702t igniter
Bosch 2x2 coil pack
Buchka WS board
214? Gold box chipped ezk

In the onset of boost during a wot pull otw home last week, the car stumbles heavily, pops, farts and all the sorts. Limp it home and after some troibleshooting I've come to the conclusion I have no spark on cylinders 1 and 4.

Swapped coilpack with spare, nada
Swapped working igniter from my brother's same setup, no dice.

Break out the meter....

To the coilpack, middle power wire gets 11v key on, 9.5v while cranking.
Both outputs going to the coil pack for each bank of coils (OC1 and OC2) both show 0v while cranking. Not really knowing what I'm doing, I thought that was odd. Considering cylinders 2 and 3 have enough spark to run the engine.

To the igniter...coming from the ezk (pins IB1 and IB2) they both gradually increase in voltage while cranking. From 0v to 1.5v within 4 or 5 cranks.

Igniter has good ground

Grabbed the ezk out and inspected the connector I used to go thru the box and all looks good. Everything is still solid and not touching. Haven't opened the ezk yet but I hot glued everything in there so I highly doubt anything funny happened in there...

Any suggestions? Any wisdom anyone can share on how to diagnose further rather than rewiring everything?
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:02 AM   #470
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Originally Posted by Mbeas96 View Post
Alright guys...so I've been running my wasted spark setup for just shy of a year now; and now I've run into some issues

Link to my nonperformance thread...
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=349030

90 740 lh2.4
Miata J702t igniter
Bosch 2x2 coil pack
Buchka WS board
214? Gold box chipped ezk

In the onset of boost during a wot pull otw home last week, the car stumbles heavily, pops, farts and all the sorts. Limp it home and after some troibleshooting I've come to the conclusion I have no spark on cylinders 1 and 4.

Swapped coilpack with spare, nada
Swapped working igniter from my brother's same setup, no dice.

Break out the meter....

To the coilpack, middle power wire gets 11v key on, 9.5v while cranking.
Both outputs going to the coil pack for each bank of coils (OC1 and OC2) both show 0v while cranking. Not really knowing what I'm doing, I thought that was odd. Considering cylinders 2 and 3 have enough spark to run the engine.

To the igniter...coming from the ezk (pins IB1 and IB2) they both gradually increase in voltage while cranking. From 0v to 1.5v within 4 or 5 cranks.

Igniter has good ground

Grabbed the ezk out and inspected the connector I used to go thru the box and all looks good. Everything is still solid and not touching. Haven't opened the ezk yet but I hot glued everything in there so I highly doubt anything funny happened in there...

Any suggestions? Any wisdom anyone can share on how to diagnose further rather than rewiring everything?
Ignition coils get ground pulses from the igniter so unless you're measuring from those pins to battery positive, your 0v reading makes sense.

It sounds like you're using a multimeter which is kind of limiting since it doesn't graph like a good oscilloscope (pretty cheap online and well worth it for diagnostic use so you can save your waveforms and share to help with diag).

Check your trigger wires going into your ignition coil. Hook the neg lead to one of the coil triggers at a time and the pos lead to battery +. Watch while cranking (should unplug injectors so you don't wash the cylinders with gas). Should see 12v pulsing on each trigger.

Your issue sounds a lot like what happened to me when I got water ingress within the igniter connector (which degraded performance and caused one set of cylinders to intermittently lose spark).

Last edited by bmos; 05-15-2019 at 07:08 AM..
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Old 05-15-2019, 10:48 AM   #471
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Your issue sounds a lot like what happened to me when I got water ingress within the igniter connector (which degraded performance and caused one set of cylinders to intermittently lose spark).
This is interesting. I don't think you've mentioned that shortly before this your heater core failed. I know you checked igniter but maybe moisture affected your ezk/wasted spark board. We should have thought of this already but just grab my ezk and plug it in. Mine is very accessible right now.
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:46 PM   #472
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I'm glad I know I can check for the 12v pulses in the coil harness. And yeah never really thought about the heater core causing problems. I'm wondering if I can open up the igniter pigtail and check out the contacts. Lol and yeah accessible being laying in the back seat area...

I should really invest in an oscilliscope sometime soon. Learning to use it sounds fun and rewarding
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Old 05-20-2019, 12:42 PM   #473
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Ordered a new connector last Thursday from a miata forum so it should be here either today or tomorrow.

But until then I took the meter and tried to measure the pins coming from the igniter going to the coil using the method described above.

So I've had to look back thru pictures and diagrams, and then had to remember the outputs of the WS board are switched.

On the bank of coils that are working I'm getting a seemingly constant 11v with key on and while cranking. The other bank (the one side that doesn't have spark) ha's 0.3v with key on and increases to about 1.5volts while cranking.

Sound about right? At least both sides aren't the same so I know something is wrong there
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Old 05-23-2019, 04:28 PM   #474
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Before I wire this connector in and try it out I undid the harness and found this...it was probaby like this on the first one but I just didn't care to ask.

The two outputs that go to the coil are wrapped together separately and wrapped with bare wire not connected to anything...important to replicate this the whole way to the coil or no? Cause I didn't the first time...

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Old 05-25-2019, 09:13 AM   #475
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Before I wire this connector in and try it out I undid the harness and found this...it was probaby like this on the first one but I just didn't care to ask.
The two outputs that go to the coil are wrapped together separately and wrapped with bare wire not connected to anything...important to replicate this the whole way to the coil or no? Cause I didn't the first time...
I didn't twist the wires like that but I'm not using a Miata coil so YMMV. Typically twisted pair wiring like that is a good idea when you have two wires with alternating pulses bundled together although I haven't seen them with shielding like that. Try disconnecting the wires at the EZK module and see if you get pulsing voltage coming out the module. I don't know if your meter will pick up the short ignition pulses, check out the uScope. It is only 1 channel so you can't compare the two ignition channels at the same time but it's only $150. You could also just use LEDs connected from ground to each channel and see if they alternate blinking.
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