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240 Car Will Not Stay Running

nvpe

New member
Joined
Mar 22, 2019
Location
Denver
So I was driving my 87 Volvo 244 when all of a sudden it died. Not a big deal, took it to my local auto parts store and they diagnosed a bad alternator. Replaced the alternator and thought everything was fine and dandy. Not the case at all. Ever since I replaced the alternator, my car will not stay running for the life of me. I've tried jumping it multiple times with a jump box and it will stay idoling while the jump box is connected. As soon as I disconnect the jump box it will sputter out and die. While trying to pull the alternator out I did rip the Oil Pressure Sender wire out but I did rig something up that I think works. (The Jerry rigged OPS is the black wire with a yellow butt connector on the end of it). The other blue connection was not connected to anything when I originally pulled the old alternator out and I am not sure what it is for. (Below are pictures of the alternator wiring setup) https://imgur.com/a/2YJF4TV
 
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Your description clearly says that the new alternator did not fix the problem.

A voltage reading with the engine off and with the engine running at above idle would help.

Check the connections between the alternator and battery and the battery and grounds for loose connections and corrosion.

Drive belt tight enough?
 
pzypxril.jpg


The small red wire needs to go where the black wire is (D+). You'll need a ring connector to replace the connector on the wire or a blade terminal that can be attached to the stud on the alternator.

The black wire needs to go to the case bolt with the loose nut or any of the case bolts assuming the other end is bolted to the block. The alternator is mounted in rubber and the black wire is what grounds the alternator.

Fully charge the battery before trying to start the car. The alternator is not designed to charge a dead battery.
 
pzypxril.jpg


The small red wire needs to go where the black wire is (D+). You'll need a ring connector to replace the connector on the wire or a blade terminal that can be attached to the stud on the alternator.

The black wire needs to go to the case bolt with the loose nut or any of the case bolts assuming the other end is bolted to the block. The alternator is mounted in rubber and the black wire is what grounds the alternator.

Fully charge the battery before trying to start the car. The alternator is not designed to charge a dead battery.

You're an absolute lifesaver! Hooked everything up the way it should be and it fired right up! Took it out for a nice little test drive and while on it the battery light came on but im guessing that's because the battery is not fully charged. Either way thank you so much for your help!
 
In your last photo the large red wire "appears" to have a fray wire that is close to the case bolt(or may just be angle of photo) in either situation you don't want that wire grounding out, you may want double check it.

* Disconnect the battery if you need to get back in there & sort things out.
 
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