Head gasket options on a b230f+t

So I've got a '90 240 sedan that I +t'd a year or two ago and I'm going to be dropping it's drive train into an '80 242 shell I picked up recently. I figured that while I've got the engine out of the car and on a stand I might as well throw a new head gasket in it, but I wanted to get some opinions on what gasket to use. I have done a lot of searching around the forums, but there are some pretty conflicting arguments about gasket set ups so I figured I should start my own thread and give as much info about my "build" as possible.

I'm planning to run 8-10psi on a b230f with a factory Garrett T3, factory LH 2.4 ECU and ignition module from a '90 740 turbo, 740 turbo injectors, IPD upgraded in-tank pump, and an IPD turbo cam. I won't be tuning it for now, but I am going to get a wideband so I can at least know whether it's about to explode on me. I already ordered an Elring head gasket and ajusa TTY head studs because they were dirt cheap, but I'm open to other options too. I'll admit I'd really rather not drop $400 on a cometic gasket and ARP head studs because my engine has 209k miles and I could probably find a b230ft for close to that price, but I'm not ruling it out yet. If I could get away with it 12-15psi that would be fantastic, but I'm doubting that's really possible with a $12 head gasket. The car will be seeing some track/drift time, but it's not a dedicated race car in anyway. I'm planning to mostly use it as a canyon car. I'm in Colorado too, so it'll be running at high altitude.

So I guess my question is, should I just slap some copper sealant on the elring, tighten the studs to like 110 degrees and call it a day, or is there any sort of option that's more than $40 but less than $400? What about an elring gasket with ARP studs, or cometic gasket with ajusa studs? If I did go with a cometic head gasket, would it be worth it to get a thicker gasket to lower my CR a bit or am I just opening up a whole new can of worms by doing that?

Thanks guys!

For your setup, a stock head gasket with the bolts is all you need. You're not going for performance so the parts you ordered are satisfactory. I usually order the Victor reinz head gasket, you can get it at autozone for about $20. I've used the same brand on countless Volvos(rwd & fwd).

Mahle head gasket and Felpro head bolts from Rockauto for me with my recently replaced cylinder head.

Don't forget a new rubber water pump bushing/seal. I used factory Volvo for that piece.

B230 F+T with 16T was very happy with stock Reinz gasket up to 16 PSI and with RE85 ethanol up to 20 PSI. New 12.9 bolts.

Our 24hr lemons car used an Elring head gasket (~$15) on a B230F block and 60trim T3. LH2.4, orange T5 injectors, stock Turbo ECUs. Car ran strong at 14-15psi (93oct) and we never head gasket problems. Stock head gaskets don't seem prone to failure under 20psi, so I wouldn't worry about it.

towerymt said:

Our 24hr lemons car used an Elring head gasket (~$15) on a B230F block and 60trim T3. LH2.4, orange T5 injectors, stock Turbo ECUs. Car ran strong at 14-15psi (93oct) and we never head gasket problems. Stock head gaskets don't seem prone to failure under 20psi, so I wouldn't worry about it.

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Okay great, that's good to hear. One more quick question, did you have to fit a different FPR or something like that to get the orange T5 injectors to work on the factory ECU? I think the green b230ft injectors I have will be fine, but I might as well grab some oranges if it's an easy upgrade.

Mad Maxx said:

Okay great, that's good to hear. One more quick question, did you have to fit a different FPR or something like that to get the orange T5 injectors to work on the factory ECU? I think the green b230ft injectors I have will be fine, but I might as well grab some oranges if it's an easy upgrade.

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No you don’t have to, but a 3 bar FPR is ideal. Some 240s already have them, some have 2.5 bar I think. Do you have a wideband? You’ll be able to see if you’re leaning out or not, but I bet you won’t at your power goals.

The fwd 5 cylinder turbo injectors are a direct drop in, the redblock turbo injectors are not. So use the 5 cylinder injectors if you can find them. And many of them are the newer 4 Pinter style anyway which is supposed to promote better atomization.

Elring and 3x used headbolts on a junkyard b230f made 350whp on a holset at 19psi with no issue for years.

2.5 vs 3bar, either will work. I believe we used the 3bar from a turbo car. I should check my '92 240 that was LH3.1, but it might be one that had a 3bar. Do not recall.

RvolvoR said:

...3x used headbolts...

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I usually compare lengths among all the bolts to see if any are not reusable and then replace the set.

I’ve run an elring head gasket set on my old car that I thrashed on. 20 psi regularly on a .50 trim eBay turbo. I also reused the original head bolts. Years ago I remember seeing somewhere that it was ok to reuse the factory bolts. You can also order factory spec head bolts from eeuro for pretty cheap if you want some “security”.

Thanks for all the input guys, I think the elring gasket and new head bolts will be fine for what I'm doing. I might make a project thread once I get going on this, but we'll see.

Victor Rein has been good around 25 for me for years. I just lost a head gasket recently after I pushed it past 30 psi. Just installed a Elring. It’s 11.99 plus 4.99 shipping from FCP.

iHateVolvoPeople said:

No you don’t have to, but a 3 bar FPR is ideal. Some 240s already have them, some have 2.5 bar I think. Do you have a wideband? You’ll be able to see if you’re leaning out or not, but I bet you won’t at your power goals.

The fwd 5 cylinder turbo injectors are a direct drop in, the redblock turbo injectors are not. So use the 5 cylinder injectors if you can find them. And many of them are the newer 4 Pinter style anyway which is supposed to promote better atomization.

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LH2.4 cars should all have 3 bar FPRs stock. As mentioned, don’t bother running the free b230ft injectors because you’ll have to add the resistor pack as they’re low resistance instead of high like the non turbo injectors. The orange top 850 turbo injectors are the earlier EV1 style, but they’re plug and play with the proper spray pattern for turbo Lh2.4 ECUs without the ineftor resistor pack. You don’t REALLY want to use any of the 4 hole EV6 injectors from later Volvo’s because their wider spray pattern is better for two intake valves, not singles like on a 8V head. I’m currently researching what is a good modern, 300+ cc/min injector for the 8V heads and will post that info in another thread: Injector Upgrade!.

RvolvoR said:

Elring and 3x used headbolts on a junkyard b230f made 350whp on a holset at 19psi with no issue for years.

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This. Stock, aftermarket headgasket is fine, reusing the original head bolts is fine as well as long as none are stretched(doubtful if your engine is original and it hasn’t been apart!).


If you’re going through the hassle of pulling the head off, you’ll want to have it resurfaced and checked out by a machine shop just to make sure all is happy. No reason not to if you’re going this far! I would also personally use a Cometic gasket(with original bolts) as then you can get a thinner one to make your engine more efficient by reducing the piston to cylinder head gap. Shoot for between .030-.040” gap(.8-1mm) for best results. It actually can help prevent detonation as well as the increase in efficiency because of the faster, more complete burn. A stock gasket will be fine if you don’t want to spend the extra $120, but I’d rather have the efficiency a thinner one provides.

If you expect to blow the motor up accidentally, a stock headgasket instead of the Cometic MLS might help prevent severe damage to your bottom end. If you’re going to keep an eye on things and be smart, thinner MLS is the way to go.

Greenbooks say head bolts can be reused 5 times. I draw the line at 3. I put dots of white paint on the heads of the bolts t signify how many times I've used them. Oddly enough, it doesn't wear off.

shoestring said:

Greenbooks say head bolts can be reused 5 times. I draw the line at 3. I put dots of white paint on the heads of the bolts t signify how many times I've used them. Oddly enough, it doesn't wear off.

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You can also write the length on the side of the bolt with a fine tip paint pen and remeasure each time you use them. If the length doesn't change, good to go, even after 6 times.

I've only used elring on my cars, rarely if ever had a problem with the gaskets, most of my issues were tune related. copper coated em and tossed em on.