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Volvo 122S Build Thread: Scope-creep the Sequel

Thanks Folks - laser cut parts came in as did the rails from Art Morrison. So we're right back to where we were a couple of months ago. The rails came flat packed in a box (I do make a few IKEA jokes in the next video). The final analysis and design of the new suspension is covered on the YouTube channel. This thread is a little a head of the videos...because editing that stuff takes a lot of time.

Episode 6
https://youtu.be/oTLr_pZ5lNU

Ok - so we're working on those LCA parts of the new cross member. They needed to be perfectly square in all dimensions. Sure do wish I had a mill - as doing this with a file is terrible work.

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Can you believe that I spent about 6 hours making these perfect? Neither can I - I should make better choices.

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So the idea is to mount the tabs to these as shown above. Then to put the bolt in double shear, I made these mount brackets.

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A little clean up.
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The way I wanted to mount these required a little bend on the bottom to make the join nice. This way I can reference the top and both sides of the tube when they get welded. I also wanted the full bushing to be captured on the LCA. So the difference required this design. The laser guys cut all these parts...so cheap.

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Jigging these parts isn't easy either. I got lucky and the following looks like a winner. First a flat screw to pick up the centre of the laser cut hole.

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A washer mounted and squared to the back was exactly the right size to sit in the tube (like tap with a hammer). What luck.

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Bam - that looks like a winner.

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Added some flat screws to the 1-2-3 blocks (these are my "good" ones - can't use them for welding...but for show only). Set the screws to exactly 57 mm.

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Then something like this (did I mention I could use a mill?).

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That should work.

You get the idea.

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I then have to weld on the laser cut tubes. So nice to not have to cut this stuff with a hole saw.

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Next up was cutting the AME bent rails. I turned the welding table into a frame rail jig with a little tube. This took several hours of measuring to get right...cutting and fitting the rails was simple.

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I appreciated their efforts to give me a matched pair with weld lines on the same side for the bends...but the bends did have a little twist in them. Nothing I can do about these.

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A little gusset can't hurt - these are going INSIDE the tube for a less agricultural look.

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Nice TIG button welds. I've not finished these just yet - you're as up to date as can be. With luck, we'll get the rest of this done over the weekend.

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Because you're such a safety conscious guy, I noticed in episode 2 when you're using the metal eraser belt sander, some sparks are headed directly backwards and hitting those jugs behind it on the shelves. I have no idea what's in those jugs but if it's anything flammable you may want to move them. Loving the videos
 
Because you're such a safety conscious guy, I noticed in episode 2 when you're using the metal eraser belt sander, some sparks are headed directly backwards and hitting those jugs behind it on the shelves. I have no idea what's in those jugs but if it's anything flammable you may want to move them. Loving the videos

Thanks - that did make me think for a minute. It's easier to just put a shield on that machine as I have no place left to put things on shelves. Up high is just hand cleaner and some oil...but on the lower shelf is my parts cleaner! I'd better get that looked after before it becomes a problem.

I'm working on improving the sound in the videos - just got a wireless mic. It should help a little.

Now back to engineering a jig to hold that K-member.
 
Aside from the usual Christmas garage wife ban and the weather, things got done. It's been colder than it really needs to be and controlling the TIG with my winter boots on sucks, but we just push on. Just for reference, this was the first of two dumps of snow in the past week.

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Clamp the hell out of everything on the rails in a quest to have them not end up like pretzels.

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Clamps...clamps...clamps.

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Then with the buttons done, the rest got welded. Starting with the 2" side and ending with the longer weld. I stress relieved it with a hammer as I welded and also metal worked that little twist out of the rails. I'd rather not grind the welds.

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Money shots.

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That'll do.

On to the K-member.

Created a jig to position things. Then cleaned all the parts and got it ready to tack...this took 2 days.

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Checked all the dimensions and level in every dimension.

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All tacked up.

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So that's it for now. The steering bracket has to be installed on the cross bar and that has to be fitted still. So far it's dead nuts in every measurable dimension. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
 
I've said this before, Craig, but whenever I go to a hot rod show I can always pick out the Canadian cars. The level of craftsmanship and attention to detail is almost always over the top! It must have something to do with your universal health care or the water. Whatever it is, you've definitely got it!

With that said I can't believe you rely on a bubble level to confirm your work. You need one of these:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digi...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKzG9ZHttNgCFc98fgod2ysBhQ

Very affordable and super accurate to 0.1*. Cheers!
 
I finally read all the way through this thread.

You're a f@#%ing madman, and I love it! I can't wait to see more.

What if I told you this is just the tip of the iceberg? And it was -45 degrees C outside this morning, so I know icebergs. LOL.

I've said this before, Craig, but whenever I go to a hot rod show I can always pick out the Canadian cars. The level of craftsmanship and attention to detail is almost always over the top! It must have something to do with your universal health care or the water. Whatever it is, you've definitely got it!

With that said I can't believe you rely on a bubble level to confirm your work. You need one of these:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digi...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKzG9ZHttNgCFc98fgod2ysBhQ

Very affordable and super accurate to 0.1*. Cheers!

Sears just went bankrupt in Canada!
Ya, I've got three of those Alan...and two digital Stabila's are more accurate than those things. The bubble levels are Stabila and good to 0.01 degrees. The little one was useful to check level between the LCA mounts and the 24" bubble Stabila was just what I had out at the time. I've checked it with my digital ones and it's dead.

The most annoying thing about the cheap digital levels is their sensitivity to zero and lack of sensitivity when 0.1 off. I've even run my various digitals through some simple tests and the less expensive ones are sometimes off versus the German ones...which at least are repeatable.

It's because they have crappy winters and are stuck inside with nothing else to do but, screw, drink and build cars. Hmmmm, I need to move...

That's just a bit too accurate! Wind chill this morning did reduce the -45 to -50 C - it won't be that cold for long, but that's stupid.
 
"Sears just went bankrupt in Canada!
Ya, I've got three of those Alan...and two digital Stabila's are more accurate than those things. The bubble levels are Stabila and good to 0.01 degrees. The little one was useful to check level between the LCA mounts and the 24" bubble Stabila was just what I had out at the time. I've checked it with my digital ones and it's dead.

The most annoying thing about the cheap digital levels is their sensitivity to zero and lack of sensitivity when 0.1 off. I've even run my various digitals through some simple tests and the less expensive ones are sometimes off versus the German ones...which at least are repeatable."

Well I guess I should have known that with the cold Canuckian winters you would have been meticulous enough to devise and perform your own digital level accuracy testing. Oy Vey!!
 
Craig, get aload of this frame table. You need one!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7SeIAaraVQ
FTFY

I sure could have used one of these right from the start. I talked myself out of getting a couple of big H beams and it really was one of my biggest mistakes. My half table is working out fine - but I never should have pulled the rear end out without making a reference jig. Some metal scavenger then stole my original rear subframe and subframe jig from my back yard (bloody scrap scavengers are like Magpies).

Though watching that video of buddy using the wheel of death with out a face shield or other needed protection (at least he has the guard on the grinder) is horrifying. It's like he's never had one explode on him before!

Funny - I pulled the rear subframe out yesterday as two of the brackets were welded on in the wrong spot (140 thou wrong...FFS) and I've got to cut them off and move them. Wait until you see the horrifying jig set up to get a couple of parallel reference surfaces! LOL. It's so hard to get things square and level...the time I've wasted setting things up is epic. I'm not sure what a setup like that costs...but I suspect it's out of my meager means.

A couple of wide flange H-beams would have been a fantastic investment. Then again, I didn't think this was going to get this out of hand.
 
My bad, CRAIG. I must have been thinking of some other crazy canuck!

I'd bet that frame jig is in the six digit range. Oh to be a 1%'er!
 
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