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Old 03-12-2019, 09:33 AM   #1
VB242
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Default Microsquirt DSM CAS install help please

So I've installed a DSM CAS with the Yoshi hi res trigger wheel. I'm using Toyota cops running as wasted spark.I have 12v to plug, I'm reading 4.92v on the sensor plugs from to the 5v vref/1k pull up resistors spliced in. At first I was getting some weird low rpm reading on the tuner studio tach, like 31rpm or 93rpm where I let the key off after cranking but no reading during cranking. The battery was pretty low and it was dropping down to 8v or so. I put the charger on the battery and am now at least getting an rpm signal and the injectors are firing but no life from the engine. I have the trigger wheel set like the picture in gross polluters write up and 10° offset. I found a different thread last night from GP that said he recommended a 60° angle now. I will try this tonight and try to set the cam slot to 60° past the sensor, is this correct? The battery should have a full charge now as well.

The main issue I'm having though is with tuner studio. I have my cooling fan running on WLED. I have 1& 4 coils hooked to spark output A and 2&3 hooked to spark output B. It's throwing an error when I open the tune, saying I have a conflict with the spark outputs and the optional outputs. Then the cooling fan comes on and stays on until I disable the optional output and go into the testing mode and turn it off manually. I've reflashed the controller several times. Once I reload the tune after the reflash everything is fine until I cycle the key off and back on then I get the conflict. Is the controller bad or am I doing something wrong?
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Old 03-12-2019, 12:42 PM   #2
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Update: wasted spark cop is the wrong setting and is trying to use ALED and WLED as spark outputs. I should be using only wasted spark per diyautotune
I'll try the 60° thing later today.
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:08 PM   #3
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coil on plug vs wasted spark in Megasquirt parlance has to do with how things are wired on the car, not whether you have individual coils per cylinder (as you now know lol).
wasted coil on plug has a single ignition channel per coil (output), and it just fires them in a wasted configuration. not sure of a great example for this, maybe an LS engine that isn't using cam sync but you're using the factory harness. Otherwise, the more normal Wasted spark, you wire up 1/2 the number of outputs to coils, and pair things accordingly (1-4, 2-3 in the case of the venerable redblock).

that's one of those things that you're best off gleaning from the manuals, because the drop down in TS isn't all that intuitive if you're not sure what you're looking at.


Since it told you what the conflict was regarding io pins, that should've been an indicator of what to look up, although not all of those messages are very... ahhh... decently informative. Now that you know, bet you don't make that mistake again ;)
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Old 03-12-2019, 10:40 PM   #4
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New problem I have no spark output on my A coils. B coils seem to work fine. I checked the wiring for continuity from the amp seal connector to the coil connector and even tightened the wire end up in the amp seal. Also I need to crank it from key off 3-4 times before I get a good rpm signal, what's that all about?
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Old 03-13-2019, 04:11 PM   #5
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output testing, check spark that way first. as for poor rpm signal, you use pullups? it needs pullups. what's a datalog say? it may not be syncing which would also cause funkyness
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Old 03-14-2019, 07:54 AM   #6
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Yes I ran the output tests, that's how I know the A coils aren't firing. B coils are dropping 3/4" sparks to the valve cover. I ordered another microsquirt u yesterday, I think there's something wrong with the A coil driver. I'm using 1k resistors from vref +5v to the signal wires. Should I try 12v instead? Will this harm the controller? I turned off the noise filters. I'm getting square waveforms on the tooth logger, I don't see any wider ones just taller ones though. Please explain what you mean by not syncing and what I can do about that.
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:01 AM   #7
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tooth logger is only one of the two signals. composite log or sync log. also just a normal datalog will tell you if it's a triggering problem or if it's (maybe) something else.. sync loss count and sync loss reason
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Old 03-14-2019, 07:18 PM   #8
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Check that "Spark A Output Pin" is set to IGN1 (and not WLED).

Or, if IGN1 isn't working, I guess you could change the setting and rewire it to use the WLED wire for sparkA bank. You'll need a 1K pullup to +5 vref for the WLED pin; the IGN1/IGN2 pins don't need pullups.
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Old 03-14-2019, 08:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Check that "Spark A Output Pin" is set to IGN1 (and not WLED).

Or, if IGN1 isn't working, I guess you could change the setting and rewire it to use the WLED wire for sparkA bank. You'll need a 1K pullup to +5 vref for the WLED pin; the IGN1/IGN2 pins don't need pullups.
Matt at diyautotune told me to disconnect the coils and set them to going low, then I could look check for +5v at the trigger pin. I did this and got voltage on the coils that weren't working and no voltage, fractions of millivolts anyway on the B coils. So I reset TS to going high, hooked up the coils and and did the output test and sure enough A bank fired right off. I assumed B would now not fire but all the coil packs fire, inserted the plugs and they fire too. Going back out to wrestle with it some more.
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Old 03-15-2019, 12:15 PM   #10
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New plugs, tested in the coils out of the head and throwing nice blue sparks. All installed, getting 280rpm and sync, some fuel being injected but still no fire. I'm guessing it's a TDC issue now, going to try hooking up a timing light to see where#1 is now. I'm getting best quickest sync at 120 but I've advanced the wheel some from the original starting position.
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Old 03-15-2019, 02:08 PM   #11
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I think there is a bad zone for the tooth #1 gap from 0° to 50°.

Or is that just basic trigger?
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Old 03-15-2019, 03:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VB242 View Post
New plugs, tested in the coils out of the head and throwing nice blue sparks. All installed, getting 280rpm and sync, some fuel being injected but still no fire. I'm guessing it's a TDC issue now, going to try hooking up a timing light to see where#1 is now. I'm getting best quickest sync at 120 but I've advanced the wheel some from the original starting position.

should be able to adjust the tdc angle in 20 degree increments til it lights off, and then set timing from there (or adjust til it sounds better and THEN set the tdc angle)

with wasted spark, you only really need it to be correct in a 360 degree range
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Old 03-15-2019, 03:55 PM   #13
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So embarrassing point Matt at diyautotune just emailed me, I have it set for dual missing tooth wheel should just be dual wheel only. I'll give it a whirl when I get home weather permitting.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:18 AM   #14
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It's almost catching now, I get a handful of pops. It got too late to be making noise in the hood so hopefully I'll get it sorted this afternoon, first autocross is tomorrow.
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Old 03-16-2019, 05:36 PM   #15
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So the trigger log shows intermittently, it fires when it does. Have a good tooth log on the crank side. I bought everything used, I'm beginning to suspect the cas might be hinky. I even removed and polished the trigger wheel to no avail. It looks like the timing is pretty close when it does trigger the timing light, maybe 12 degrees btdc. I've crimped all the connections, will soldering make any difference? I'm reading 0.00 ohms at the connectors. Since I'm getting a solid tooth signal and a on and off trigger signal, I'm going to order a new one from rock Auto unless someone has a better idea.
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Old 03-16-2019, 05:59 PM   #16
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Try changing the polarity of the "Ignition Input Capture" edge. This will shift timing by ~7degrees, but may give a better sync for MS. (Problems can occur if the cam edge and the crank edge are on top of each other. Flipping the crank edge can fix this.)
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Old 03-19-2019, 07:22 PM   #17
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I got in a new CAS unit but it has vanes instead of the optical disc. I installed it temporarily and got a good trigger signal with the 4G63 trigger setting but it's running backwards of course. So I ordered what I hope to be a normal reman unit from Rock Auto and will have it Thursday. There's only 2000+DSM cars in the boneyards here.
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:00 PM   #18
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So this thing doesn't look broken but it is, a bearing must have seized inside. I put the lh2.2 distributor back in, I know that's not the correct term, it's the ezk distributor that goes with 2.2. at least it's running again. I'll try to get the cas adapter apart at work. It was spinning free when I got it but I can't even turn it with pliers. I'm just lucky I reckon.

2019-03-24_08-44-19 by John Skiba, on Flickr
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:09 AM   #19
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What oils it? Was it dry when you installed it?
Bushings or bearings?
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Old 03-25-2019, 02:21 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
What oils it? Was it dry when you installed it?
Bushings or bearings?
It appears to be dry, I imagine there's a couple sets of sealed bearings inside there.
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Old 03-25-2019, 11:59 AM   #21
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ask josh. he doesn't normally bite too hard, so don't be skurrred
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Old 03-25-2019, 02:25 PM   #22
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I took it apart, there are brass bushings, perhaps I didn't get it running quick enough to splash some oil up there. There doesn't appear to be any way for oil to get in it though.
2019-03-25_02-20-52 by John Skiba, on Flickr
2019-03-25_02-20-41 by John Skiba, on Flickr
2019-03-25_02-20-27 by John Skiba, on Flickr
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