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Old 01-16-2008, 12:04 AM   #76
Alex Buchka
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Here's a nugget for all interested parties:

Today I picked up a pilot bearing that will work with a T5 tranny on a whiteblock. The bearing requires a 17mm ID for the T5 input shaft, 35mm OD and 10mm width to fit in the whiteblock crank. A local industrial supply shop deals in NTN brand stuff and they happened to have the exact size I needed for $17 or so.

The bearing is NTN part number 6003LLBC3/1K, here's the white paper for it:

http://www.ntnamerica.com/datasheet....CATEGORY=RBSRD

It was a very snug fit in the crank just as it should be and the stock retainer circlip fit perfectly.
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Old 01-16-2008, 03:26 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kildea View Post
here are a few photos from the day when i first installed the motor/trans in july or august - i forget when exactly, they don't show you all that much but it'll give you the idea, although if you scroll down you'll find there are a few of the mock-up block with some points of reference that might give you an idea of what kind of room there is.
i have since modified the water transfer tube to work properly as well as completing most of the rest of the project (still - unfortunately - a couple of minor items remain but it's nearer than further).
















crossmember modification for rx7 trans mount:








mock-up with original twin turbo placement concept:













and lastly - some unsolicited engine assembly photos, just because i think it's a pretty neat-o motor
Now those engine mounts look kinda familiar . I'm sorry there was a "slight" flaw in the drawings I sendt you (duh, why don't the right mount fit in the right place) but you seem to have figured it out.

We need moar whiteblock power http://www.vikeboe.com/prosjekter/24...lden_girl.html
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Old 01-16-2008, 11:26 AM   #78
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i used essentially stock mounts - pretty much identically to those used on dabutcher's car. jw240 (i think) is the original dude doing it that way, unless there are others over there that did it first.
i actually wanted to buy a set of the rsport 240 poly mounts ... finally did, edit - no more hockey pucks soon enough.
oops, two edits for this previous post ...

first one - jw240 should have been v240tic, sorry i got your screen name mixed up.

second one - recieved the rsport mounts (plug), these things are friggin sweet, nooch.
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Old 02-03-2008, 03:31 AM   #79
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How much of a gap you guys got going between the highest portion of the back of the head and the firewall? At the back of the head, I presume you guys replaced the brass hose barb fitting(that led to the heater) with an elbow fitting? Is it a close fit between the sloping firewall and fitting?
Also, have you angled the engine a few degrees rearward help get the transmission in?
Sorry for all these questions, just planning it so it's a turn key conversion that can be down in a weekend.
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Old 02-03-2008, 03:36 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex Buchka View Post
Here's a nugget for all interested parties:

Today I picked up a pilot bearing that will work with a T5 tranny on a whiteblock. The bearing requires a 17mm ID for the T5 input shaft, 35mm OD and 10mm width to fit in the whiteblock crank. A local industrial supply shop deals in NTN brand stuff and they happened to have the exact size I needed for $17 or so.

The bearing is NTN part number 6003LLBC3/1K, here's the white paper for it:

http://www.ntnamerica.com/datasheet....CATEGORY=RBSRD

It was a very snug fit in the crank just as it should be and the stock retainer circlip fit perfectly.

That's the same bearing size I'm using for the Tremec TR-3650. But i had to keep it Swedish and went SKF
I presume you are using the Tremec T5 not the BW T5?
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Old 02-03-2008, 03:52 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewEG
How much of a gap you guys got going between the highest portion of the back of the head and the firewall?
I'd say there's about an inch of clearance between the top of cam sensor and the firewall.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewEG
At the back of the head, I presume you guys replaced the brass hose barb fitting(that led to the heater) with an elbow fitting? Is it a close fit between the sloping firewall and fitting?
No, the stock fitting is still there, it's just got a brass 90 attached with a piece of heater hose. The slope of the firewall makes this possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewEG
Also, have you angled the engine a few degrees rearward help get the transmission in?
No, due to the size of the sump and the horizontal distance between the firewall and crossmember, angling the engine rearward actually makes it impossible to drop in. You have to leave the transmission and bellhousing off the engine and and angle it forwards to wedge it in. You can either leave the engine partially suspended with the hoist while you attach the tranny or you can do what I did and rest the sump on an appropriately sized block of wood.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewEG
Sorry for all these questions, just planning it so it's a turn key conversion that can be down in a weekend.
This was also my plan, but that turned out to be not the case. The best advice I can give you is to plan for at least two weeks of vehicle downtime to complete the swap. Trying to plan out every little detail before the fact is essentially impossible, especially considering it's your first time doing it.
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:10 AM   #82
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No, due to the size of the sump and the horizontal distance between the firewall and crossmember, angling the engine rearward actually makes it impossible to drop in. You have to leave the transmission and bellhousing off the engine and and angle it forwards to wedge it in. You can either leave the engine partially suspended with the hoist while you attach the tranny or you can do what I did and rest the sump on an appropriately sized block of wood.
You reckon it might be worth while cutting the front section the pan that hangs down off the sump, so it's angled about 50 degrees from the horizontal?
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:37 AM   #83
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You reckon it might be worth while cutting the front section the pan that hangs down off the sump, so it's angled about 50 degrees from the horizontal?
I don't really follow. Do you mean you want to make the sump smaller? If you want to mount the engine straight up and down then you'll have to modify the sump anyway, so making it a bit smaller to drop in with the tranny attached is probably a good idea.
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Old 02-03-2008, 07:43 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by Karl Buchka View Post
I don't really follow. Do you mean you want to make the sump smaller? If you want to mount the engine straight up and down then you'll have to modify the sump anyway, so making it a bit smaller to drop in with the tranny attached is probably a good idea.
Yeah, I have to mount it straight up and down as I need as much space as i can get on the exhaust side of the bay. I won't bother with a 960 sump so I'll modify the existing sump to suit. Having the steering column and the damn brake booster on the exhaust side will turn the job into a major PITA when routing the downpipe Should be getting some packages from the laser cutters this week then i'll get the S.S. manifold started
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Old 02-22-2008, 09:14 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex Buchka View Post
Here's a nugget for all interested parties:

Today I picked up a pilot bearing that will work with a T5 tranny on a whiteblock. The bearing requires a 17mm ID for the T5 input shaft, 35mm OD and 10mm width to fit in the whiteblock crank. A local industrial supply shop deals in NTN brand stuff and they happened to have the exact size I needed for $17 or so.

The bearing is NTN part number 6003LLBC3/1K, here's the white paper for it:

http://www.ntnamerica.com/datasheet....CATEGORY=RBSRD

It was a very snug fit in the crank just as it should be and the stock retainer circlip fit perfectly.




slight add-on ... the '99 b6284t requires a 32mm outside diameter pilot bearing ...

... for those of you with t5 (or other) transmissions requiring a 15mm pilot bearing, such as one from an lt1 camaro, an rx-7, or a 2.3l ford (others too i'm sure), and a late model crank from a t5 or a t6 motor.

the 32mm outer/15mm inner is common enough as well.
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Old 01-01-2009, 03:36 PM   #86
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What radiator / oilcooler / intercooler are people using ?
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Old 01-01-2009, 03:50 PM   #87
Alex Buchka
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Stock intercooler and radiator work fine for a stock 5 cylinder. Obviously these can be upgraded to whatever you want.
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Old 01-01-2009, 04:18 PM   #88
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Man the engine in that orange car up the page a bit looks so at home in there! Such a snug perfect fit, like it was meant to be.
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Old 02-26-2009, 02:17 PM   #89
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Hello this is a brilliant write up and have had to put alot of time and effort into this the question i have is i have a rhd volvo 240 glt and wanting to do the same conversion the only thing i am worried about is the servos and master cylinder will there be clearence for these also has any one fitted the t5 engine in a rhd 240.
thankyou pete
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Old 02-26-2009, 02:42 PM   #90
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I don't know of anyone who has done the conversion to a RHD vehicle. You shouldn't have any issues with the brake booster. Here are a few engine bay shots of my old car, they should give you an idea of the clearance that is available:

http://picasaweb.google.com/kbuchka/...30073282742866
http://picasaweb.google.com/kbuchka/...89657306021138

I think the biggest issue will be fitting the down pipe if you are using a stock manifold. It places the turbo very far back in the engine bay.

http://picasaweb.google.com/kbuchka/...89665895955746

It's also worth noting that my car had a manual steering rack, which allowed a much deeper and further set back mounting position. A power steering rack requires you to move the engine up and out, which would give you more clearance for the down pipe and steering column.

Also, I'm working on an updated version of this guide, as most of the info in the OP is very dated.
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Old 02-26-2009, 02:53 PM   #91
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Hello thankyou very much for your reply i think my best bet would be to have a exhaust manifold custom made to eliminate the problem with clearence and make a bracket to support the weight of the turbo.
thankyou pete
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Old 09-02-2011, 08:42 PM   #92
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Bump.

Anyone making oil pans, adapt plates???
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Old 09-05-2011, 02:38 PM   #93
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Bump.

Anyone making oil pans, adapt plates???
I figure it's just a matter of time before SDturbo or Nathaninwa start producing modified 960 pans, transmission adapter plates for BW T5's and motor mounts.

Dayummm, it'd be rad to harness the fury of a T5 engine in a 240.
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:05 PM   #94
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Depending on interest, I might have engine mounts out fairly soon.
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:24 AM   #95
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^ There's a good first step...

Now someone has to adapt RWD trannys to it...like T5's and Getrags.
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:31 AM   #96
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Let only fear stand in your way.
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Old 09-06-2011, 12:00 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by Karl Buchka View Post
Let only fear stand in your way.
Yeah.



Well, that and maybe incompetence and poverty....
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Old 09-06-2011, 12:05 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by Captain Bondo View Post
Yeah.



Well, that and maybe incompetence and poverty....
Incompetence or inexperience???

I know it's a subtle difference, but you know how fragile a TBer's ego can be.

Last edited by Mylesofsmyles; 09-06-2011 at 12:10 PM..
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Old 09-06-2011, 12:12 PM   #99
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Well, that and maybe incompetence and poverty....
Hehe. Although I'd say the prior is a cop-out and the former doesn't have to be a limitation. Alex and I did the T5 plate in my old 242 for $50 and a couple of favors.
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:51 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Garvin View Post
Bump.

Anyone making oil pans, adapt plates???
Hello!
Theses guys have. A company in Sweden. New 960 oilpans, shortned... But to a price that is too much! 4500,- NOK, with oilstick 5500,-NOK....whitch is about $1000,-
I'll better off welding ityourself..... Or getting someone over there to weld it for you....
Good luck!
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