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Need help with idle issues

Hesitant start has existed a long time (2-3 years), RSI cam exacerbated it tho to the point of start stop. Oddly enough when I first installed it I was retarded 2 teeth on the cam and it started up every time (still hesitant but it started) since retiming right its start stop tho wtf could possibly cause it to do that after timing right tho is beyond me. Once running she runs great and like I said it idles fine once I hit atleast second gear and let off gas, its literally just starting it that happens
 
Doing some bedtime reading (holy crap its 2 am here lol)
For my reference
"Yes. There are three pins inside the connector housing of the TPS. The middle one is numbered 18 and goes to ground via the customary "SB" (Black). The other two are labelled 2 and 3, and on your LH2.4 system should be Blue/White, and Yellow/White respectively. I believe No.3 is the idle signal and No.2 is full throttle. Put your multimeter on the resistance/continuity range, and connect one lead to 18, the other to 3. Closed throttle.

If an open circuit is shown, you need to loosen the fastening screws (can't remember if they are hex or torx), and rotate the TPS in the same direction as the throttle moves as it opens, until the click and 0 resistance occur. Tighten screws and recheck function: a click and open circuit at first perceptible movement of the throttle plate.

Check also that No.2 shorts to No.18 as you approach wide-open-throttle. This sends a signal to both the ECU and the ignition controller."

Gonna test resistance using this method when I get ahold of a multimeter
The "click" is spot on with mine tho. The second I hit throttle just a little there is an audible click
 
Sounds like a bad electrical connection. I would take a VERY good look at the handiwork of whomever wired that MAF in over in the wrong place. Intermittent issues=electrical.

Also, what is that LARGE rubber hose connected to in lower middle of pic? Is it an IAC hose "rigged" in somehow?


We need better pics! That first one, I kinda got to stand on my head and scratch my balls to figure out what is going on there.
 
Hahaha aight I'll go take some pics and upload them. Getting multimeter this weekend to test that tps. Me and madmax are thinking f it IMA install ms3 and see if that helps. At the least that replaces all electrical, rids maf, and will be replacing fuel pumps with warlboro so that should tackle a lot. Maf wires are stretched taught and connected securely but stock wires so who knows :e-shrug:
 
Question of the day, what happens when your cyl 2 and 3 injector wires are backwards? Just tested swapping them in the off event we mixed them up when we did my intake manifold, tps, and temp sensor and car idles exactly the same o_O
 
hdBattousai said:
Question of the day, what happens when your cyl 2 and 3 injector wires are backwards? Just tested swapping them in the off event we mixed them up when we did my intake manifold, tps, and temp sensor and car idles exactly the same o_O
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Absolutely nothing, unless you've already setup sequential ms3 :-D But really, its batch fire so you can plug those injectors in however you want.
 
Airbox (or lack of airbox) has been conveniently placed out of frame in those pics. MAF no like dirtly air dood.

Secondly, I can't tell what has, or has not, been hacked with the MAF wiring. Has it been shortened, or cut at ANY point in it's life?

Your idle issues are being caused by problems under your hood. Redundant to say, but true. It could be anything from dirty MAF, to crappy kinked/IAC hose, to shoddy wiring. IDK what you want us to tell you, but I will tell you what Tbrickers never wanna hear, "pull all that crap out, and put the good factory **** back in." I think that statement carries merit in this scenario.

Thread title says poor idle. I see a terrible intake rig. Start there.

EDIT-<<< rereads post one to try to get more info. My GUESSES are at this point:

1. your car can't handle the lower vacuum of the cam due to hackwork and airleaks

2. you did something wrong in the cam swap like fugged up the timing belt install

3. hackwork

4. or a mixture of all of the above.
 
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It looks like you changed your intake around from first pic to later pics, but to be honest, I can't see much of anything in those blurry pics.



hdBattousai said:
Me and madmax are thinking f it IMA install ms3
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Whoa! Slow down! That has been the second or third person this week that has hinted that they will convert to MS because their car has driveability issues. I see the rookie logic, but if you can't get a stock car to run well. There is a snowball's chance you will ever get dialed in, or even running, on a standalone system. Especially MS! Kenny and a few others are a lot smarter and experienced than the pack. Don't just go following the leader.

hdBattousai said:
Getting multimeter this weekend
Click to expand...

If you are purchasing your first multimeter, you have no business even dreaming of standalone engine management. Harsh but true. Put down the pipedreams for now and fix your car.
 
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having trouble following what's going on in here but have you checked the o2 sensor?


2nd thought: you main issue with the stalling, is most likely AMM/MAF related.
 
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