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Electric fans to fit diesel rad

BeaverMeat

Active member
Joined
Aug 8, 2020
Location
Vancouver Island
Simple question. What ad hoc OE electric fans fit a diesel rad?

The ?turbo bricks? style zip-tied push-pull arrangement works ?OK?. Actually, it works ?too cool?. For my purposes the engine runs too cool down the highway. Approx 175*. The 5.0 needs a fit more heat. Closer to 185* at speed to be efficient.

I?m thinking some plastic OE rad housing if some sort is needed to restrict the flow a bit. A duel fan arrangement will work fine.
 
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Do you have thermostatic control of the fan? It should not be on while you are going down the highway.
 
A fan can't really make a motor run too cold, the thermostat regulates the temp (to the extent it can).

And, as mentioned, the fan really hopefully shouldn't need to be running (because the engine is a bit too warm) when travelling at speed.
 
A fan can't really make a motor run too cold, the thermostat regulates the temp (to the extent it can).

And, as mentioned, the fan really hopefully shouldn't need to be running (because the engine is a bit too warm) when travelling at speed.

My rad isn’t shrouded. Just a fan on the back driver side, and a pusher on the front passenger. My thinking was if I installed a shrouded fan it will restrict some airflow just enough to get some more heat to the engine.
 
Ah, a sort of air-flow limiting device to regulate engine temperature?

I still think you're better off using the coolant-flow limiting thermostat.

Restricting airflow is something sometimes done in REALLY cold situations, where the coolant entering is really cold, restricting airflow can help increase the coolant flow (as regulated by the thermostat). Which helps keep the whole engine at a more stable temp.
 
I use an olllllllld flexalite 160 with a push in temp probe. You set the "on" temp with the dial/knob on the shroud mounted controller. It works great on the drift car. 210F max coolant tamps after 15min of straight drifting on a 90F day. It moves a metric f-tonne of air, and it should fit your setup... since it's what I use on my 5.slow car. Just send it power and a ground, it does the rest.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-160
 
I run a 180* degree thermostat in the V8 [350Chevy], still sometimes it will run too cool. The core is 24"X17" custom made HD 4 core radiator. I have 2 12" pusher fans that are controlled with an adjustable thermostat that come on when the needle gets to the top of the "N" and an override on the dash. Might try a 190* stat
 
The car cools properly... Stock 195* stat. ‘Regina’ fan switch (215*/206*) in a diesel rad. Matches the OE Mustang fan switch temps perfectly.

Problem is when I get up to speed it drops down to 175* in short order. Needs to be closer to 185* at speed.
 
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A shroud is a good idea because it will direct the air flow so it only flows back to the engine and out. While sitting in traffic without a shroud, air can recirculate and cause the engine to heat up. I doubt adding the shroud will help with that highway cooling but it will be better directed airflow. Maybe the thermostat isn't regulating the temp properly? Try another new thermostat would be my thought if you feel it's too cold.
 
I've had terrible luck with replacement ford thermostats and radiator caps over the last few years. I had one that broke within 50 miles, on that opened at ~ 150F, and caps that would never hold pressure.

I finally just spent ~$20 on a high flow 190F t-stat and it's been g2g.

Also make sure that the temp you're reading is accurate. Also, it's off by like 10F... that's probably within the error of manufacturing.
 
Take it out, use a thermometer and a pot of water on the stove.

If you manage to warm the motor up by restricting air flow at cruise, you're just going to overheat when you're trying to work it harder.

The thermostat should be able to keep the engine temp up to spec even if you have a 100 mph blast of 10 degree air going through the radiator. If the cooled coolant isn't flowing from the radiator into the motor, it's not going to cool down the motor.

You might be mildly 'overheating' due to a lack of airflow at lower speeds, and going faster is the only time the thermostat actually gets to start regulating the temp.
 
The thermostat is operating properly and the system holds pressure. The gauge is reading accurate enough. During my “no fans and gauge” fiasco I was tested everything. Cross referencing with the Ohm chart it’s spot on. Fans kick-in as advertised.

From what I’ve measured the 7/9/8 rad shrouds are too short lengthwise for the diesel rad.

Perhaps a XC or V/S diesel rad? Ford Taurus?
 
The thermostat is operating properly and the system holds pressure. The gauge is reading accurate enough. During my “no fans and gauge” fiasco I was tested everything. Cross referencing with the Ohm chart it’s spot on. Fans kick-in as advertised.

From what I’ve measured the 7/9/8 rad shrouds are too short lengthwise for the diesel rad.

Perhaps a XC or V/S diesel rad? Ford Taurus?

listen to johnMC

your problem isn't overcooling on the highway if the thermostat is working.
what is your idle temp, and what is the highest temp it gets too, and when?
 
There might be an error in the gauge. The temp gauge is steady at 3:00 (195*) around town. The fans kick in at the 2:30 (205*) position. It never goes past that. 50+mph it will drop to the 3:30 (175*) position.

The fan will run for like 10 seconds.

Before the engine rebuild the fans didn’t kick in till (1:30 position) 225*! with the old diesel rad switch.

There is no shrouding. It must be air cooling. Just a dinky puller and a larger pusher. It “works” but it needs to be upgraded.

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