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Garrett tb0363 get to 200hp?

H

holdenjp

New member
Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Location
Indiana
Title pretty much says it all. This is the turbo I currently have but since I haven't actually put it on an engine yet I want to have some idea what to expect. I don't know anything else about it other than the badge that's on it. I'll post a picture later but the tag says as follows

Model tb0363
Garrett P/N 466672-2
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Last edited:
It isn't the Turbo that gives you gobs of horsepower.

It's everything else connected to it. Get a better cam, have your cylinder head blueprinted and ports matched, different pistons, connecting rods, overbore, bigger intercooler (NPR).

And a performance chip for at least fuel, optionally spark.

Those, and an MBC set for 12psi, will give you probably 250-260hp
 
BrianB said:
It isn't the Turbo that gives you gobs of horsepower.

It's everything else connected to it. Get a better cam, have your cylinder head blueprinted and ports matched, different pistons, connecting rods, overbore, bigger intercooler (NPR).

And a performance chip for at least fuel, optionally spark.

Those, and an MBC set for 12psi, will give you probably 250-260hp
Click to expand...

Right.
Revs give HP

The turbo makes MORE TORQUE.

The rest--for a paltry 200 hp ---is folly.
Bad advice.
 
My suggestions were bench racing based on other threads i've read over the years.

The rationale for me suggesting all of the headwork and pistons/connecting rods is that for the OP to achieve 200hp they will need to crank up the boost, replace the stock engine software with performance chips, and probably a performance cam. With all of that work involved, they'll go quite a bit over 200hp, and so I thought, hey, if you're going to have the engine out to do the work, might as well do a full rebuild, and do it right.

The money outlay in the beginning is probably close to 1k for the extra work (machining, different con rods, pistons) and if he does the work himself, he'll be far ahead.

Conversely, only doing a boost controller and chips from what I hear will give him the 200hp he seeks, and lots of extra torque. But then he'd be at the outer limits of what is possible without engine work. And replacing the cam can be done without removing the head, with the engine in the car, but the pain in the backside is doing the shims.

Alright. To the OP, what you should start with is a boost controller that is well-made. Set it with an air compressor to trigger at 10psi. It will surge to 15psi before engaging and shutting the wastegate. Do a drive test, driving as aggressive as you feel proper, paying attention to any stuttering or misfires. If it runs good, you can crank up the boost another 2-3psi before the engine computer thinks something is wrong and starts cutting fuel. If it's like I remember the T3, it'll start acceleration like the big bore 4 cylinder that it is, then around 2500-3000rpm the turbo will kick you. So don't floor the throttle from a stop, rather ease into it until you get to 2500, then punch it.

Someone's going to say this is wrong too, but that's what is so wonderful about talking to people about performance. We each have our own viewpoint as to what works and what doesn't.
 
BrianB said:
It isn't the Turbo that gives you gobs of horsepower.

It's everything else connected to it. Get a better cam, have your cylinder head blueprinted and ports matched, different pistons, connecting rods, overbore, bigger intercooler (NPR).

And a performance chip for at least fuel, optionally spark.

Those, and an MBC set for 12psi, will give you probably 250-260hp
Click to expand...

I also have my choice of VX, T, A, and B cam's, choice of either an older Dale's or IPD adjustable cam gears, and a K&N Cone filter to put on as well.

Does the bigger intercooler from NPR fit directly or need to mods?
 
What cam you should use really depends on where in the rpm range you want the torque. But for the power levels you're after there is nothing wrong with the T cam, and if you're in an auto car that's what I would stick with. If you feel like there's no power up top retard cam timing until you're happy.
 
BrianB said:
My suggestions were bench racing based on other threads i've read over the years.

The rationale for me suggesting all of the headwork and pistons/connecting rods is that for the OP to achieve 200hp they will need to crank up the boost, replace the stock engine software with performance chips, and probably a performance cam. With all of that work involved, they'll go quite a bit over 200hp, and so I thought, hey, if you're going to have the engine out to do the work, might as well do a full rebuild, and do it right.

The money outlay in the beginning is probably close to 1k for the extra work (machining, different con rods, pistons) and if he does the work himself, he'll be far ahead.

Conversely, only doing a boost controller and chips from what I hear will give him the 200hp he seeks, and lots of extra torque. But then he'd be at the outer limits of what is possible without engine work. And replacing the cam can be done without removing the head, with the engine in the car, but the pain in the backside is doing the shims.

Alright. To the OP, what you should start with is a boost controller that is well-made. Set it with an air compressor to trigger at 10psi. It will surge to 15psi before engaging and shutting the wastegate. Do a drive test, driving as aggressive as you feel proper, paying attention to any stuttering or misfires. If it runs good, you can crank up the boost another 2-3psi before the engine computer thinks something is wrong and starts cutting fuel. If it's like I remember the T3, it'll start acceleration like the big bore 4 cylinder that it is, then around 2500-3000rpm the turbo will kick you. So don't floor the throttle from a stop, rather ease into it until you get to 2500, then punch it.

Someone's going to say this is wrong too, but that's what is so wonderful about talking to people about performance. We each have our own viewpoint as to what works and what doesn't.
Click to expand...


Actually you're right, somebody is going to say this is wrong..
Its wrong. Plenty of people have made over 250 hp with the boring gotta change it T cam..

And more worong: viewpoints and opinions are fine and dandy as to what "works'.

But viewpoints don't change what actually works..
In other words you can think X+Z+Y=240 hp.....and maybe it does...but is not your thinking that makes it have 240 hp.
It is the parts..
Our opinions, all of them, including mine don't make a difference to how things work, PARTS make a difference...so we just have to find the PARTS, parts that are THIS size or THAT size...dimensions, size, A/F ratio, CFM crammed in..

Numbers, not opinions.
 
turbotankshane said:
What cam you should use really depends on where in the rpm range you want the torque. But for the power levels you're after there is nothing wrong with the T cam, and if you're in an auto car that's what I would stick with. If you feel like there's no power up top retard cam timing until you're happy.
Click to expand...

I'd rather have more power in the lower range since it's an auto and I rarely gets the revs too high.

Here's my thinking.

B or A cam to get the engine "breathing" a bit better.
Advance the timing so the torque will be better lower in the RPM range.
Boost will kick in at normal rev levels and pick up the slack since I've advanced the timing.

Correct in theory?
 
Dawes device, AKA "Grainger valve." Not fancy but it does everything you need.

A stock Redblock TB03 is perfectly capable of moving enough air for 200 bhp.
 
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