I was too legit. Too legit to quit.

[BR1CKHOUS3]

Originally Posted by Jack

I go metal to metal on all my cars/trucks

At the dealers we would tell people 10-15% time to replace
I went 20k miles on “10” before it fubar. On my hard driven off-road truck

[BR1CKHOUS3]

Like I said...FULL TB

[BR1CKHOUS3]

I drilled a hole in the lower radiator hose to make for easy/lazy draining



Spal install is underway. Using stainless hardware and Spal wiring. The clearance is SO much better.

[2turbotoys]

That's funny, I just did the opposite of that fan swap, but I had a bit more room to work with.

[BR1CKHOUS3]

In what way? Your 242 is killer btw dude.

Stopped at Kruse/Lucas Imports to get some finishing parts



All new Volvo hose clamps and a mix of all new coolant hoses from Gates and Uro. I'll keep an eye on the Uro selection thanks to Gary's suggestion

[2turbotoys]

My 242 had what seemed to be an over heating problem, I DD it on the weekends and temps hit the roof. Long story short, lower rad hose is cold after 30 mins, need water pump and thermostat! Did that, didn't help. Radiator must be clogged! Replace that, didn't help. Spal fan sucks, must replace with 940 e fan! Didn't help. The only thing left is the gauge and sender. Replaced sender, didn't help. Put Autometer temp gauge in place of factory gauge...there isn't actually a problem...gauge cluster is the problem... Dammit lol, complete new cooling system on an engine I'm not going to use very long and its the gauge cluster. Shotgunning parts FTL.
In my 740 I had to cut off the end of the waterpump shaft to make the efan fit, and even then there was a bit of self clearancing for a bit. It fixed itself in a short time haha

[gsellstr]

Lemme know if that Spal runs less than the 940 fan. My fan seems to run a LOT, even on the highway, so I'm kinda curious. The 940 fan moves a ton of CFM, but still...

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by gsellstr

Lemme know if that Spal runs less than the 940 fan. My fan seems to run a LOT, even on the highway, so I'm kinda curious. The 940 fan moves a ton of CFM, but still...

So you're losing ~40%+ in the alternator then ~40%+ again in the fan motor, I'd say you'd be better off with a clutch fan unless it runs less than 30% of the time....

[gsellstr]

Losing 80% of what?

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by gsellstr

Losing 80% of what?

74% of the energy needed to run a fan when it's on.

[BR1CKHOUS3]

Going to Euro Sunday in the morning. I'll join in on the fan discussion tomorrow evening after work

[BR1CKHOUS3]

So on the fan topic.. I feel like putting in the Spal has been an upgrade to both the 940 fan and the clutch fan.

In the case of the clutch fan, it HAS been dead reliable. I decided to change it due to me dropping my clutch fan and breaking one of the blades. That prompted me to 'upgrade' to the 940 fan. Another reason for removing the clutch fan is how severely it hurt the car's performance in city traffic.

The 940 fan turned out to be a struggle in my particular car due to clearance issues. This was the only reason I chose to replace it with the low profile Spal. In replacing it I discovered that the fan motor on the Spal caused a much less severe shock to the electrical system. The 940 fan would come on and the sudden, heavy draw caused the idle to drop noticeably and made the car feel very unrefined. (I do understand there are ways to kick the fan on progressively). In the case of the Spal, my roommate monitored the voltage at the relay and compared it to the 940 fan (sorry I don't have #'s). The idle doesn't drop suddenly when the fan kicks on now.

In summary..I feel like the Spal runs a *little* bit more than the 940 fan, but the overall efficiency of the unit has made it a beneficial mod/maintenance item.

Side note: I put in a 180 degree temp switch with the Spal. Do you guys think that is an adequate temp?

[gsellstr]

The Spal's I looked at were much less current draw than the 940 fan, but also much less airflow. The 940 fan in mine is around 30A startup, 18A run on low, 42/25 on high. The Spal's were closer to 20A startup, 10-15 run, but around 1000-1500 lower CFM. Swapping the switch at the same time as the fan makes it really hard to tell on run time on old vs. new.

I hear ya on the clearance on the 940 fan though. That's been the main reason I can't go e-fan on the 140...it's even closer.

[2turbotoys]

Who cares about the amp draw unless you have a really tiny little alternator? A loaded alternator isn't as bad as the extra belts and heavy fan hanging off the water pump shaft. I would think driving extra belt driven accessories hurts throttle response and hp. The downside is clearance as you guys said, I cut the end of the waterpump shaft flush with the pulley on my old 704 and it still did a bit of self clearancing. +1 for gsellstr on the airflow, the Spal was about the same or less than the Volvo fan set on low speed. I wasn't even going to try to resell it cause its weak, but maybe its enough, idk. Using a shroud helps also...

[BR1CKHOUS3]

I hear where y'all are coming from. My thoughts on making the Spal/ any aftermarket fan work will be to step up from the low profile fan to the medium profile fan. It seems to have enough clearance given the info available. I also think the optional Spal/ aftermarket fan spacer (shroud in this case) could improve airflow greatly.

Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A30W4B8WGWEEJ5

Edit: Is the 180 degree temp switch correct for this car?

[BR1CKHOUS3]

Ran into and old buddy in Mexico.

[gsellstr]

The 180 for the fan might be a touch low, shouldn't be a problem though.

[2turbotoys]

You are using the factory fan temp switch in the radiator right? The thermocouple they ship with the fan is a piece of poo... Huge temp fluctuations with that turd.

[BR1CKHOUS3]

I'm using a replacement factory threaded temp sensor in my 3 row nissens

Edit: On that topic, I want to replace mine with a new unit. Anyone know if new/quality/bolt-in replacements are available?

[2turbotoys]

Perfect

[gsellstr]

Ahh....there is the reason you had to trim the fan. The 940 fan barely clears with the single row, won't clear with a 3-row.

[2turbotoys]

I had an old school brass 3 row, was really tight even after cutting end of waterpump shaft off.

[gsellstr]

I had a 3-row when I was looking to go e-fan, then I found that was the downside of going that route, right about the time that 3-row sprung a core leak...

[BR1CKHOUS3]

Do I have any direct replacement options for the 3 row?

[2turbotoys]

Any stock radiator? I got a brass one if ya want it. I'll throw in a coolant temp sensor as well.