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Old 09-11-2021, 02:00 PM   #76
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Fuel pump reseal is not rocket science but do your homework carefully before you take it apart. That is one job that you probably do want to pay a pro to handle if you are not familiar, or get a junkyard pump from an old VW to practice on. If you lose reference on where everything is calibrated when you disassemble, it'll never be right again, and worst case if you really get it wrong or don't hook up the governor correctly, the engine can run away from you and destroy itself when you go to start it.

Tom Bryant in Maine USA is a good resource if you want to send the pump out to be resealed and checked out on a bench, extremely affordable.
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Old 09-11-2021, 02:08 PM   #77
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Joining this thread late -- nice looking 245.


Thanks for the reply...

I took a couple weeks to stare at the car, figure out how everything works and to really plan out what I want to do with it. A friend of a friend contacted me about a complete drivetrain from a '93 245... B230f and M47 that are being pulled for a V8 swap. If I can get my hands on those, that'll dictate the direction of the build. If those plans fall apart...well, I'll have to look into maintaining/fixing the D24. That, or a V8 swap of my own (which is actually why I bought the car in the first place, Vortec 350s are stocked up like cordwood and are stupidly cheap and available near me).

Just put the car on jackstands, stopping short of draining any fluids or anything in anticipation of this swap. Going to wait until I hear back from wagon guy before I make a running car...not.




I guess the next post will be a direction bump on whether (or what) I swap or not. In other (less relevant) news, I managed to snap up a pretty scuffed set of Dracos that will probably end up on the car.


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Old 09-12-2021, 12:57 PM   #78
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That is a healthy sounding motor. The extended cranking time is probably due to loss of fuel pump prime from the leaks you mentioned earlier -- common. Once it started it sounded good.

I also see from looking at your shot from underneath that the engine is painted blue, not the factory green or black. That's a pretty sure sign it has a refreshed motor in it. That color blue was commonly seen on engines built by Chris Bogue in Oregon and he was known for doing a great job with them. Since you said this car came from the east coast, it may be a long shot that it's one of his engines but who knows, people and cars move around. Either way, the different paint color and the good starting and running suggest that you have a healthy engine to start with. Good news for you if you're considering keeping the car diesel-powered, or if not, then you know you have a good strong motor that you could sell to someone else.

I PM'd you the contact info for the D24 guy in your province. Hope he can be a good resource if you need anything.

For what it's worth, and just my opinion -- hard to see the point of swapping a naturally aspirated B230F/M47 into that car (or any car). Neither the engine or the trans are worth the effort -- fine to live with if you already have it but in the wide world of options if you are swapping motors, why would you ever choose it? For all the work of the swap, completely overhauling the fuel system, installing gasoline fuel injection and all its related electrical systems, reworking cooling system, driveline, etc .... you end up with an engine that is no different than what is stock in most wagons out there that you can go out and buy and drive home tomorrow. Not an impressive motor OR trans, only really another couple dozen HP versus the D24 and all that extra HP is up high in the rev band. In real world driving the NA D24 and NA redblock are pretty similar in terms of performance, only difference is when you are really balls to the wall winding it out to redline. If what you want is a NA redblock 245 there are thousands out there, much better off to just start with one that's already built that way. If you want to tinker, you can even start with a NA automatic 245, easier to find, and swap in a T5 trans, +T, whatever. Then at least your time and effort are moving you forward to something better than a stock gasser 240, rather than just laterally to another stock setup with shortcomings.

V8 swap has its justifications too. Then for yet another option, you can also bolt turbo parts onto your D24 and wake up the performance significantly that way. All it takes is manifolds and a turbo fuel pump. You don't get piston squirters with the NA D24 block, but unless you're going nuts with power or towing, it'll live a happy enough life without them.
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Old 09-12-2021, 03:48 PM   #79
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For what it's worth, and just my opinion -- hard to see the point of swapping a naturally aspirated B230F/M47 into that car (or any car). Neither the engine or the trans are worth the effort -- fine to live with if you already have it but in the wide world of options if you are swapping motors, why would you ever choose it? For all the work of the swap, completely overhauling the fuel system, installing gasoline fuel injection and all its related electrical systems, reworking cooling system, driveline, etc .... you end up with an engine that is no different than what is stock in most wagons out there that you can go out and buy and drive home tomorrow.
Plus the d24 sounds cooler.

I've been harassing fatcat on discord telling him to turbo his d24, I'm really hoping he does.
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Old 09-12-2021, 04:08 PM   #80
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Plus the d24 sounds cooler.

I've been harassing fatcat on discord telling him to turbo his d24, I'm really hoping he does.
Is there a turbobricks discord?
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Old 09-12-2021, 04:16 PM   #81
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Yes indeed. I think it's linked in website & board.
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Old 09-13-2021, 09:16 AM   #82
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Plus the d24 sounds cooler.

I've been harassing fatcat on discord telling him to turbo his d24, I'm really hoping he does.
Well, I fired off an email to the D24 guy and a few other people I've been in contact with (notably the two guys I was planning on offloading the engine to), to see if they might be able to help me out with the belt/pump situation. I already have carburetors sitting around, so if I can't make the diesel happen, it'll for sure be getting some kind of carb'd motor in the future to ensure maximum suffering for me.
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Old 11-30-2021, 06:58 PM   #83
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Alright, well it's been about three months since my last post. Not really any progress to report, so I guess you can call this a direction bump. It's winter now, so any 'progress' I try to make will be slow, but since now I have a vaguely steady work schedule, I can probably get something done. Barring procrastination and weather, of course.



It's also getting dark early. Don't let my camera's auto shutter fool you, it's close to pitch black in person at 5:30 PM.

What have I done to the car so far? Well, basically nothing. I half put the roof rack on, but it's parked too close to the wall to get the bolts on the passenger side of the roof. I started taking the front end apart, but stopped short of taking the bumper off. I'll have to get back around to it soon.



But the actual 'big' 'news'?



I'm keeping the D24.

Trust me, I couldn't give the thing away. I had a few deals in the works to trade/sell it and buy a gas motor/trans to put in the car but nothing really worked out. Cwazy and redblockpowered have successfully convinced me to keep the motor.

I guess it helps with the originality of the car, not that most of it is original anyways. Also, the PO of the car (an active user on the TB Discord server) located a bunch (though not all) of the tools necessary to change the timing belts. In theory, I can remove the front end of the car (I need to change a bunch of heater hoses anyway), and I should be able to deal with the crank pulley bolt (for which you normally need a special offset wrench) with an impact gun. Not the right way to do it, but I'm a hack.

Otherwise, plans? Well once I've dealt with the injection pump, I'm potentially looking at a +T in the somewhat distant future. I managed to locate a D24T exhaust manifold for now. The really big obstacle in a +T is probably going to be finding a boost-capable D24T VE pump. I'm passively looking for one of those.



I've also bought belts and a water pump for whenever I can get around to changing those.

So there, a thread bump. Can't wait to eat my words in 4 months when I either break the car or haven't made any more progress.

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Old 12-01-2021, 07:40 AM   #84
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Are the turbo pumps that different aside from having the ALDA on top of them and injectors with slightly higher opening pressures? I’m digging deep into my memory of IDI VW stuff to try and remember…
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Old 12-01-2021, 10:57 AM   #85
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Are the turbo pumps that different aside from having the ALDA on top of them and injectors with slightly higher opening pressures? I’m digging deep into my memory of IDI VW stuff to try and remember…
From what I can tell, the big difference is the diaphragm on top for boost reference. I'm new to diesels, so a lot of the terminology just kinda slips off at times...
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Old 12-01-2021, 11:54 AM   #86
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I'm going to find out where you live and drive by very slowly with carb stuff strapped to the roof ;).

From what I recall about VW IDI boosted applications, there's a boost 'pin' that slips into the top of the pump that has something to do with the fuel curve.
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Old 12-01-2021, 12:01 PM   #87
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I'm going to find out where you live and drive by very slowly with carb stuff strapped to the roof ;).
You'd better bring a whole AQ151 for me.

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From what I recall about VW IDI boosted applications, there's a boost 'pin' that slips into the top of the pump that has something to do with the fuel curve.
Maybe I should just glue an HX35 on and send it. I might have a source for the correct pump ID... have a few other people passively searching with me. At one point I was considering importing a whole D525T (which are surprisingly not that expensive), but getting parts to do an engine swap seems counter-productive.
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Old 12-01-2021, 12:06 PM   #88
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You'd better bring a whole AQ151 for me.
A buddy just bought an AQ151 and TWO AQ140As like mine...complete with dual sidedraft manifolds like the one I made for twin zenith-strombergs ;). Don't tempt me to pack a trailer, lol.
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Old 12-01-2021, 12:10 PM   #89
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A buddy just bought an AQ151 and TWO AQ140As like mine...complete with dual sidedraft manifolds like the one I made for twin zenith-strombergs ;). Don't tempt me to pack a trailer, lol.
Argh why must you do this to me???

Trade for D24?
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Old 12-01-2021, 12:20 PM   #90
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I'll stop, lol.
Stick with the diesel. It's not something you see every day, and with a bit of oomph it could be a wicked driver.

Besides...that manual would allow you to bolt up any of the VW/Audi 5-cyl cars from the 80s-90s...I can see so many possible swaps there ;).
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Old 12-01-2021, 12:24 PM   #91
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I'll stop, lol.
Stick with the diesel. It's not something you see every day, and with a bit of oomph it could be a wicked driver.

Besides...that manual would allow you to bolt up any of the VW/Audi 5-cyl cars from the 80s-90s...I can see so many possible swaps there ;).
If only I had space and/or fab skills for a swap like that...
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Old 12-06-2021, 02:50 PM   #92
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Nice to see you are keeping the diesel, good call.

DON'T attempt to use an impact gun on the front crank bolt. This is the #1 killer of the D24 and D24T cars, mechanics attempting to cut corners with that one bolt. The gun won't get the required 350 ft-lb of torque on the bolt successfully, even if it says it's rated for that, because the crank cannot be held stationary as the gun is rattling on it. Also near impossible to set timing successfully this way.

It's not only better but MUCH EASIER to use the correct tools. No need to remove the whole front of the car, plenty of space just by pulling the fan and shroud, you can keep the radiator in position and all hooked up, no problem. Heater hoses are easy to change with the car assembled, not sure why removing the front clip would make a difference on that. The timing system work is not scary or difficult on these engines IF you have the right stuff and do it the right way. Where people get into trouble or lose a lot of time is when they try to get creative.

I will happily mail you the correct 9995187 and 9995188 wrenches to borrow, FOR FREE, and will even pay the postage to ship them to you as a little bit of TB charity if it helps you do the belts right rather than bricking the engine. You are welcome to use them, get the job done, and just ship them back to me afterwards. Sounds like you already found most of the other needed tools? What tools do you have/not have at this point?

I have the parts to build a turbo pump that can be yours too, after your Stage 0 and successful, 100% by-the-book, timing belt service is complete.
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Old 12-06-2021, 03:21 PM   #93
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Nice to see you are keeping the diesel, good call.

I will happily mail you the correct 9995187 and 9995188 wrenches to borrow, FOR FREE, and will even pay the postage to ship them to you as a little bit of TB charity if it helps you do the belts right rather than bricking the engine. You are welcome to use them, get the job done, and just ship them back to me afterwards.
I would certainly take you up on that. Not sure how soon I would be able to actually accomplish anything (given the changing weather and my somewhat random work schedule). If you can't tell from working with the 144, I tend to plan out times to work on the car, but then it takes me four months to achieve what I wanted to do in three days. I don't want to 'borrow' tools and then end up needing them for a while, so I'll have to do some planning.

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Sounds like you already found most of the other needed tools? What tools do you have/not have at this point?
I have all the tools the PO had. Still having trouble identifying what everything here is/does but I can see there's some kind of dial-bore gauge for timing (I think?) and a weird offset wrench that I'm told is for injection lines.


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Old 12-06-2021, 04:39 PM   #94
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If you shove enough of those croissants into the fuel tank it should solve the issue.
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Old 12-07-2021, 12:34 AM   #95
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The dial threads into the back (but facing forwards) of the injection pump to set proper injection timing. The offset wrench is to get the injection lines off the back of the pump.
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Old 12-07-2021, 09:07 AM   #96
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Seems like you could tackle any repair with an entire box of...croissant wrenches.
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Old 12-07-2021, 10:34 AM   #97
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That hook-like tool looks like part of the valve shim tool set for removing the shims without removing the cam on a redblock.
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Old 12-07-2021, 11:15 AM   #98
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That hook-like tool looks like part of the valve shim tool set for removing the shims without removing the cam on a redblock.
That's possible. I did get a whole box of valve shims with the car...

So I guess I'm missing the cam locking tool. Some people say you can just stick a socket in one of the spokes of the rear cam gear, but that sounds slightly sketchy, considering the engine being even the slightest bit out of time will probably result in severe piston-valve marriage.

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Seems like you could tackle any repair with an entire box of...croissant wrenches.

Your mother.

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Old 12-07-2021, 01:35 PM   #99
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The dial threads into the back (but facing forwards) of the injection pump to set proper injection timing. The offset wrench is to get the injection lines off the back of the pump.
Yup exactly. And in order to screw it into the back of the pump, you also need the dial indicator holder tube and rod, which I believe I see in the bundle of tape on the upper right of your picture. With those, there are two versions, a short set that is intended for 4cyl VW and Cummins, and then a longer set that is designed for use on the Audi 5cyl and Volvo 6cyl (D24) engines. It is longer so that it moves the dial indicator head beyond the vacuum pump for ease of use. You can use the shorter style holder and rod with the D24 also but you need to remove the vacuum pump, not a big deal just a little more work. If I am seeing correctly in your picture, you have the short set, which will get the job done.

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That hook-like tool looks like part of the valve shim tool set for removing the shims without removing the cam on a redblock.
Yep. Make sure it is the correct style (5cyl/6cyl) as the dimensions and profile of the tool are different for the 4cyl VW style. And different again for the Volvo redblock even though it uses the same basic system. The one you have looks right though.

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That's possible. I did get a whole box of valve shims with the car...
Nice, that's a score! You will have the valve cover off when you are doing the belts so that is an easy time to check valve clearances also and adjust if needed. Just make sure to do it with the engine stone cold. They give a hot spec but as you probably know, adjusting valves on a hot (and then cooling) engine is a recipe for trouble.

Also plan to be ready to replace the valve cover gasket with the updated one-piece reusable rubber style, if it doesn't already have one. They are much better than the 4-piece old style cork sets. If you already have the rubber gasket then you can put it right back on, they last forever.

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So I guess I'm missing the cam locking tool. Some people say you can just stick a socket in one of the spokes of the rear cam gear, but that sounds slightly sketchy, considering the engine being even the slightest bit out of time will probably result in severe piston-valve marriage..
Actually it looks to me like you do already have the cam locking tool. It's the one that looks like a reinforced flat piece of 1/4" steel on the upper right of the picture, taped together with the dial indicator tube. It locks into a slot in the back of the cam after you remove the rear cam sprocket. The dowel tool you're thinking of, which people sometimes substitute with an 11mm socket, is for locking the injection pump. That dowel is one of the tools you actually really do not need -- it is only used if you are removing the injection pump. But you DO need the cam locking bar, so it's good that you have it. And you're right that perfection is required in the timing steps if you don't want valves and pistons to meet each other. Fortunately perfection is a piece of cake to achieve with this job IF you use the right equipment and procedure. If you don't, then it is basically impossible except by blind luck.

The main tools you are not showing required for the TB change:
- Crankshaft holding tool 9995187
- Crankshaft bolt torque wrench extender arm 9995188
- Camshaft sprocket counterhold 9995199
- Camshaft offset wrench 9995201

I can loan you all of these if you need them, as well as a D24 greenbook with all the instructions if you don't already have one (though you should get one for reference, they are cheap on ebay). Just send a PM whenever you are wanting to jump into it.

It really helps to read thru the greenbook timing procedure a few times while you are starting to think about the job. If nothing else it'll give you a clear idea of what the tools all are and what they do.

Last edited by v8volvo; 12-07-2021 at 01:44 PM..
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Old 12-07-2021, 02:26 PM   #100
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It really helps to read thru the greenbook timing procedure a few times while you are starting to think about the job. If nothing else it'll give you a clear idea of what the tools all are and what they do.
Yep and yep. Went ahead and ordered one for myself. Definitely a good idea to study everything before I break it.

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The main tools you are not showing required for the TB change:
- Crankshaft holding tool 9995187
- Crankshaft bolt torque wrench extender arm 9995188
- Camshaft sprocket counterhold 9995199
- Camshaft offset wrench 9995201

I can loan you all of these if you need them, as well as a D24 greenbook with all the instructions if you don't already have one. Just send a PM whenever you are wanting to jump into it.
Great, thanks so much! I'll be sure to take you up on that as soon as I'm ready.

It's great how I had the worst time trying to find the correct tools (or get people to ship/lend them), but all I had to do was threaten to do the wrong thing and destroy a second Volvo.

Progess.
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