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All you need to know about the M90

We're making 300lbft of torque in a 744 with 225 rubber on the back...no problem. People blow up stock ones, but usually shifting like an ape (no offence Ozzy...we love your ape-ish ways ;)) Under load...400lbft seems to be a recurring number...obviously weight, tyre, and driving style dependent.

cheers

James
 
My clutch doesnt hold very well right now with a new 228mm 850 clutch disc and used 740 pressure plate. I am not sure if its just a worn out pressure plate or what.

I cant believe I overlooked the section in the first post that you can use a lighter 850 flywheel! There are two manual 850's at the yard right now. I guess I will try to run one of those flywheels and a 240mm disc and NEW pressure plate this time. I'm ghetto sometimes and ran a used one with just a 60 grit sandpaper resurface and it didnt work out too well this time. My clutch slips pretty bad if I try to drive it too hard.


+1 Turbobricks ideology:cool:

It hasnt blown up yet!
 
Count the number of holes in the redblock flywheel, and in the 850 one please....

Please drop and engine/tranny/subframe from and 850 for me and pull the flywheel. I will then gladly count the holes for you! If its not the same as LH2.4 it wont be the end of the world since I would eventually like to install the Haltech.
 
Dude.... are you serious ???

Look at the f*ckin' pics on page 1 and tell me how you gonna mount a whiteblock flywheel to a redblock crank..
 
report of my 240 M90 swap:
Clutch works great, it is the dog-dish flywheel with a 940 M90 diesel kit, 260 master cylinder+pedal, 940 slave cylinder and the 940 hydraulic line with a few new bends. I might try a small teflon spacer between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork to see if it behaves any different, but it is already very good. Not much pedal effort needed.
The gearbox I have comes from a crashed 1995 model 940, it is a M90H (slightly longer 1st and 2nd gear compared to the M90L). I replaced all the gaskets and replaced the oil. No 3rd gear synchro welding, I tried to remove the shaft but it was too much work to remove it and I didn't wanted to lose any parts.

No bodywork mods needed (as expected). The gearbox is a bit close to one part of the tunnel but that is just one of the casted tabs to space out the tunnel insulation on the 9xx models that got that stuff. If it gets too close i'll grind it off.

The gearbox crossmember required some work. I used the M47 support of my 240. Just position the 240 under the car with a jack, fit gearbox mount and hold the crossmember under a set of bolt holes (the bracket is positioned 2 holes further to the front now) and eyeball where the cutout for the mount has to come. Mark it, measure twice, cut square hole. These pics show it better than i can explain.


p8293837.jpg

Here is the crossmember with ready for the mount.

p8303839.jpg

With mount. I used inbus/in-hex screws to attach the mount to the x-member.

mainphpg2viewcoreq.jpg

How it looks, mounted. You can see 2 small holes on the underside of the x-member to access the in-hex screws.

p9123814.jpg

The shift linkage. I shortened the aluminium piece ~100 mm, the steel shift rod 100 mm too.
For the little shifter support on the left I cut up the little bracket and welded it to a plate that was narrow enough to fit over the 2 mounting holes in the tunnel. The 240 has 4 M6 threaded holes around the shifter. The rear 2 are used for this bracket now.
Because the tunnel of the 240 is pretty narrow you need to install the pin on the right before the transmission is in place. With the engine in the mounts, cylinder head resting against firewall, you can barely squeeze the pin in place.

p9123816.jpg

On top of the tunnel, I used the rubber bellows that came with the 940. The upper and lower bellow fit great in the 240 carpet. The steel plate you see is also from the 940. The 2 little studs on the left are the protruding screws to mount the shifter support. 2 holes drilled in the steel frame to hold it in place and a bit of hammering to massage the steel plate over the 240 tunnel. Use some zipties to hold the leather shifter cover down.
Watch out with the hammer so close to the head unit, a hammer is attracted to expensive stuff.
No bodywork mods here, not even an extra hole drilled.


Driveshaft: I used the rear piece of my 240 since that is very thick. The front piece came from a 700/900 series with M47. I had the front piece shortened 30-35 mm and balanced together with the rear 240 section. A 700/900 series support bearing was used too. I'll double check the length of the driveshaft for people who want to do this swap in the future.

How it looks in the car:
p9133823.jpg

The shifter fits in perfectly.

I only drove the 240 for 4 km since this swap, still have to finish some stuff like the exhaust, some interior stuff etc. The short test drive showed that everything is working great, no noises, no odd vibrations, all gears work. A very nice upgrade.
 
Last edited:
Got my M90 and have a couple of questions before fitting.

What a great thread! Having read almost all of it I've just acquired an M90L2 thats done 80,000 miles!! Real pleased about that.

Couple of questions:
1) I have the bracket and cross-member but can I use my M46 gear linkage and stick or do I need the 940 one?

2) Being as I have the M90L2 that has the up-rated synchros do I no longer need to do the whole welding job?

3) In fitting it to a manual 740 using option 1, does the pressure plate have to be the Sachs one or can it simply be a complete any-brand clutch kit (pressure plate, disc and release bearing) for a 940TDi? And do I need the 940TDi release bearing included or can the 740/M46 one be used?

The L2 has the highest gear of the M90 boxes you know... 0.7 on the L2 instead of the H and L which has 0.81

I chose the L2 because it has a better spacing between gears, and therefore you can also choose a different rear end ratio to get you both acceleration and good economy.

Which dif ratio do you use then? I have a 1041 locker with the same ratio as my stock diff did, 3:54 iirc
 
You need the 940 linkage. The cross-member is the same as the M46.

How much torque are you planning to make? As long as you don't drive like an ape (at which point it's potentially not safe with standard power), you should be fine up to 400lbft or so. There's a degree of debate about whether L2 are actually any stronger than the other late-model boxes...or if they just got that reputation because quite a few late-model boxes *are* L2s.

Yeah, it can be any brand, as long as it's for a 940 TDI *with an M90*. The problem comes with mixing and matching bits. We had a genuine M90 disc refuse to fit under a pattern turbo pressure plate. I'm not sure about the release bearing, off the top of my head.

The reason L2s are so popular in the states is that their taller 5th gear goes well with auto diffs, and so many US-spec cars are autos. Combining an L2 with a 3.54 rear end will give you a nice cruiser, but you might find yourself having to drop into fourth on steeper motorway hills. Ryan's normal M90L is good for 165mph (where it hits the 6500rpm limiter) with a 3.54 rear end, so an L2 will give you a pretty serious theoretical top speed.

cheers

James
 
Thanks James, I'll have to get hold of the linkage and shifter then, ooops!

400lb p.ft is 542NM. The option 1 clutch is said to be good for 400NM so I'll stick with that setup for now. I'm looking to do some more serious mods in about a years time having saved up so I might as well weld the box at that time when changing the clutch option to suit more power.

Top speed ("where permitted") will be interesting to find out then!
 
I just ordered a new pivot ball for M46 and here is what it looks like compared to the M90 pivot ball. Maybe you just need to run one of these instead of running spacers behind the M90 pivot ball....

did you use your m46 pivot ball in the end with no need for spacers?

And does anyone know if I'll need the 940 TDi clutch release bearing or can I use my old
m46/740 one? I'm having trouble finding a kit with one for hydrawlic clutch systems!
 
did you use your m46 pivot ball in the end with no need for spacers?

And does anyone know if I'll need the 940 TDi clutch release bearing or can I use my old
m46/740 one? I'm having trouble finding a kit with one for hydrawlic clutch systems!

I used the M46 pivot ball. I do get some clutch chatter when stoppped sometimes that I can get to go away by pushing in the clutch. I am also getting a sqeaking when the clutch engages now. I also have a LOT of clutch slip when racing. 3rd gear becomes totally useless after the clutch gets too hot.

Im running an non-resurfaced flywheel, a $70 clutchnet 850 clutch disc, and a used 740 pressure plate.

Im not sure what has caused my issues, but I am learning by trial and error. I am going to try a new stronger pressure plate and clutch disc and see how it works out.
 
I would hazzard a guess it's your pressure plate, its part of the reason im doing and going for the diesel 940 (option 1), before doing any further mods as I believe the 740 clutch isn't that strong, my standard m46/740 combo is slipping in 3rd having upped the stock boost to just 10psi and now in 2nd at 14psi. (however its most likely worn as well)
 
I have a feeling the diesel and turbo pressure plates are very similar, if not the same...

A fresh M46 turbo clutch should be good to about 15psi (240lbft or so in a typical application?), I'd have said. Fresh being the operative word!

cheers

James
 
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