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Should i buy the turbo from this 95 940 for my +T?

GratefulNed

New member
Joined
Feb 11, 2017
Location
Georgia
I?m at the junkyard right now, and found a 95 940 that came in only 5 days ago. 150k on the odometer. The car i am +T?ing is my 1993 240 with a b230f. I have confirmed the motor in the 940 is a b230ft, not sure what turbo it has.

From what i can tell, the engine may have been overheated, as the top radiator pipe is busted. Not sure what this means for the fate of the turbo.

SO: should i buy all the turbo parts, as long as the turbo doesnt have too much shaft play? Is there anything that wont work in my 93 240? They are quoting me $200 for the whole system
 
What is the "whole system"? You should get the downpipe, intercooler, piping, turbo, manifold, pre turbo intake pipe, etc. I personally wouldn't worry about the oil feed and return, I'd go custom. It's easier and cleaner IMO.

The turbo should be a 13c and is a direct bolt on. The manifold is a 90+ and is good. Try to get everything for $200 and you'll be doing well.

Get some injectors from a FWD 5 cylinder turbo car. They are direct bolt on too.
 
I?m at the junkyard right now, and found a 95 940 that came in only 5 days ago. 150k on the odometer. The car i am +T?ing is my 1993 240 with a b230f. I have confirmed the motor in the 940 is a b230ft, not sure what turbo it has.

From what i can tell, the engine may have been overheated, as the top radiator pipe is busted. Not sure what this means for the fate of the turbo.

SO: should i buy all the turbo parts, as long as the turbo doesnt have too much shaft play? Is there anything that wont work in my 93 240? They are quoting me $200 for the whole system

Pull the engine complete with all of the turbo stuff and electronics. That's the best place to start, otherwise all of the minor things add up fast. :twocents:
 
i would buy the whole motor, unless the car was not crashed.
This will give you a hoard of spares and the better turbo bits.
Does the 200 include the spark box, intercooler, oil cooler, and radiator which are also part of the +T package.
Bigger injectors, AFM, squirter block, should have good rods, etc. All these pieces add up.
 
Pull the engine complete with all of the turbo stuff and electronics. That's the best place to start, otherwise all of the minor things add up fast. :twocents:

Eh, the motor in his 93 240 is probably in better shape than the ft. FT motors are all pretty worn out by now.

It sounds like the OP might need to do a little more research and put together a plan of action, but getting all of the turbo parts from the 940 is a good start.
 
Thank you for all of the replies. I definitely have a lot to learn, but am just trying to get my feet wet and get my +T on the road
 
i would buy the whole motor, unless the car was not crashed.
This will give you a hoard of spares and the better turbo bits.
Does the 200 include the spark box, intercooler, oil cooler, and radiator which are also part of the +T package.
Bigger injectors, AFM, squirter block, should have good rods, etc. All these pieces add up.

Not really. He doesn't NEED the oil cooler, and the 940 rad definitely doesn't fit without mods. The AMM is the same part. And his 93 b230f is likely in far better shape, also has 13mm rods and squirters. +T'ing the current block . is almost always a better idea than swapping in the 8.7:1 motor.
 
Not really. He doesn't NEED the oil cooler, and the 940 rad definitely doesn't fit without mods. The AMM is the same part. And his 93 b230f is likely in far better shape, also has 13mm rods and squirters. +T'ing the current block . is almost always a better idea than swapping in the 8.7:1 motor.

a 95 would have the ****ty oil/water cooler anyways.
 
If anyone has a list of things i definitely need to walk out of the junkyard with, please let me know. I am definitely open to buying things new or used but from a different year car if it will make my swap easier, or more reliable. I am trying to do things as cheaply as possible but i dont want to cut any corners either
 
a 95 would have the ****ty oil/water cooler anyways.

If anyone has a list of things i definitely need to walk out of the junkyard with, please let me know. I am definitely open to buying things new or used but from a different year car if it will make my swap easier, or more reliable. I am trying to do things as cheaply as possible but i dont want to cut any corners either
 
If anyone has a list of things i definitely need to walk out of the junkyard with, please let me know. I am definitely open to buying things new or used but from a different year car if it will make my swap easier, or more reliable. I am trying to do things as cheaply as possible but i dont want to cut any corners either

For the simplest +t, assuming you have nothing, here is a good start:

-Both computers (EZK and ECU), a 95 will have the best computers too. Dead nuts reliable and direct bolt in.
-Turbocharger, along with water lines (if you want, they won't charge extra for them, and you can sell them for $30 shipped on here if you decide not
to use them)
-Lower radiator hose-if in good shape (to cool turbo)
-Coolant reservoir hose-if in good shape (also for cooling turbo)
-Manifold
-Downpipe
-Preferably 850T injectors as a direct bolt on, otherwise grab the 940 injectors and the resistor pack
-3 bar fuel pressure regulator from the 940 is a good idea too..
-You'll want the intercooler and piping from a pre 92 turbo car, I think the 92+ doesn't fit a 240 as well.
-EFAN and relays
-Big 90 degree air intake going to the turbo
-PCV line with 'flametrap' (this is the line that runs from near the intake manifold to that 90* pre turbo air intake pipe I just mentioned). The 'flametrap' is a white 'Y' piece. You need this!


Optional things can be the intake air box, but idk if that fits a 240

Note: you do not have to water cool your turbo which means you can run stock reservoir hose and stock lower rad hose (after shortening the lower and upper hose because the intercooler will push it forward)

IMO, the absolute most important bits are going to be both computers, the turbo, manifold, downpipe, injectors, and intercooler piping if found from a pre 92 car. Idk what your jy charges for computers but pick n pull ignition computers are around $14, and the fuel ecu (brainbox is what they call it) is $34. Which to me is expensive, but is rather cheap really. Maybe you can haggle with them a bit. I have done it and it works.
 
a 95 would have the ****ty oil/water cooler anyways.

What's wrong with said water/oil cooler? John Deere uses them quite a bit. It helps warm your oil when it's cold out too. I've ran pretty high boost and never had a problem so far with overheating, even on 97F+ Autocross days. I did make the 940 radiator fit in my 242 by trimming the bottom very very carefully with a cutting wheel on a grinder. I'm also running a 3" downpipe, no problem. I had to do some finagling with the heater pipe, but its a B21, he should be able to bolt all that directly to his B230F. Also no drippy oil lines to mess around with.
 
OP, if you want to go air cooled oil cooler, shoot me a PM. I've got several of the 7 series versions on the parts rack; my understanding is you must run the narrower radiator as the 7's had to mount the air driven cooler on the driver side of the radiator (vertically mounted with hard lines/hoses).

The 95 engine will have oil squirters, but could have more block wear..... hence the suggestion to find an NA version which should have a better bore condition block.

It really depends how far you want to go..... if strictly "bolt on" what you have +T style, then there are adequate instructions out on how to do. Just don't go crazy with boost (addictive) or you'll do mechanical damage to those NA pistons.
 
If you have an engine hoist or can borrow/buy, then the best option is to buy the engine and transmission and swap that in. Everything will fit except the head mounted distributor. You will have to remove the distributor and plug hole and install a distributor with the correct auxillary shaft into the engine block. The engine block has a provision for the distributor. If you don't want to blow up your stock transmission, you're going to need the turbo transmission. This is why I recommend buying engine and transmission. The intercooler piping & hoses will have to be sourced from another turbo car that uses a top mount intercooler. I have an intercooler setup with piping & hoses(new) and mounting brackets which will fit your car but it won't go for cheap. Send pm if interested.
 
I do not have access to a hoist, and being able to accomplish this in a weekend or 2 is also a necessity, so I'll be turbo'ing the b230f and aw71 that are in my 240 for simplicities sake. My motor/tranny have 330,000 miles on them, so i know it wont last forever, but i just want to have some cheap boosted fun, and upgrade later if/when stuff breaks when I have more money.

I am going to grab the 2 computers, turbo, manifold, downpipe (and various hoses if I can get them cheaply/free). I believe all of this will be had for under $200 so I think thats a good place to start. I'm then going to try to buy injectors, radiator and intercooler/piping on here or junkyard if they become available later, since it seems the jury is out on if a 1995 940 rad/intercooler will easily fit a 1993 240, and the only injectors from a 850t in my yard have 300,000 miles on them.

Thank you everyone for your help!
 
Grab the resistor pack for those stock injectors. On driver fender by the battery. Cut a good pigtail for it. And snip a MAF wiring pigtail too!
 
Grab the resistor pack for those stock injectors. On driver fender by the battery. Cut a good pigtail for it. And snip a MAF wiring pigtail too!

Are you saying to grab the injectors and res. pack from the 1995 940 im getting the turbo from? Also, the MAF is also called a AMM, right? I'm planning on grabbing the one from the 940 as a spare, they sell them for about $30, as well as the airbox incase i can make it fit, or sell it if I cant. I'll snip the connector too, thanks for reminding me! :oogle:
 
Green tops are low rez injectors. If you dont run a rez pack= fried ECU.

MAF=AMM

Toughest part of the swap will be the oil feed, oil drain and the exhaust downpipe.
 
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