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Another lh2.4 spark issue.

G

gumpy

New member
Joined
Jun 5, 2013
Hey guys , after solving a no spark issue due to the flywheel being wrongly fitted I now have an issue where the car sparks one revolution then stops.
Here's spec and what's been checked,
U.k non turbo k-jet 88 240 converted to lh2.4 with a turbo b230ft
Chipped 984 ECU
Gold ezk chipped
Power when cranking at computers, coil and ignition module
New crank sensor fitted
New coil ,plugs and leads
New battery
The vehicle has no obd fitted to the socket so I can't check codes so if anyone has a schematic to make one that would be appreciated.

I've tried 2 different ezk's still same issue sparks once.
Fuel relay is clicking and injectors firing as it coughs for one revolution and stinks of fuel.

Anyway of checking if the ignition module is dead ?

Any help appreciated. Cheers.
 
Hey what harness you using that is does not have the code checker? You say your vehicle does not have that, yet that is part of the lh 2.4 harness not the vehicle. Didn't you put a 2.4 harness in the vehicle from another vehicle? What year harness? Is your harness a 1998 immobilizer harness? One that has an actual OBDII socket for an obdII reader? If so then that might be your problem. Just guessing. Never seen one here over other side of the pond. But if it is immobilizer harness then who knows how to make it work.

When you re-fitted the flywheel or flexplate, did you take out the number one spark plug and make sure the piston was all the way up top dead center and the crank and cam gear marks where on top dead center also and then put the flywheel on like that pic with the missing holes in the lower hole area of the starter hole?

Also did you ever fix or repin the ignition switch so it would work with lh2.4 from your kjet stock ignition?

You say your missing the code reader plug light thing. Do you have the code reader wires then? But no plastic box?

When I did this there is that one blue wire that goes to power while cranking, that goes to the little wire from the ignition switch that goes to the starter that powers the starter relay or solenoid, same thing and that is what you hook that wire to and nothing else...

The problem with the kjet ignition switch is when you crank, it looses power to the one wire that needs power while cranking, not that blue one, the other one, that is why you have to re-pin the ignition plug on the back of the switch, easy to do, if you don't it won't run..
 
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sbabbs said:
Hey what harness you using that is does not have the code checker? You say your vehicle does not have that, yet that is part of the lh 2.4 harness not the vehicle. Didn't you put a 2.4 harness in the vehicle from another vehicle? What year harness? Is your harness a 1998 immobilizer harness? One that has an actual OBDII socket for an obdII reader? If so then that might be your problem. Just guessing. Never seen one here over other side of the pond. But if it is immobilizer harness then who knows how to make it work.

When you re-fitted the flywheel or flexplate, did you take out the number one spark plug and make sure the piston was all the way up top dead center and the crank and cam gear marks where on top dead center also and then put the flywheel on like that pic with the missing holes in the lower hole area of the starter hole?

Also did you ever fix or repin the ignition switch so it would work with lh2.4 from your kjet stock ignition?

You say your missing the code reader plug light thing. Do you have the code reader wires then? But no plastic box?

When I did this there is that one blue wire that goes to power while cranking, that goes to the little wire from the ignition switch that goes to the starter that powers the starter relay or solenoid, same thing and that is what you hook that wire to and nothing else...

The problem with the kjet ignition switch is when you crank, it looses power to the one wire that needs power while cranking, not that blue one, the other one, that is why you have to re-pin the ignition plug on the back of the switch, easy to do, if you don't it won't run..
Click to expand...

No I haven't re-pinned the ignition switch yet as I'm unsure which wires need to be changed I can attempt that tomorrow if I know what wires to swap, the blue wires on the lh2.4 loom I'm running from the fuse box that have power when cranking even tried running them to permanent 12v. The lh2.4 loom is a 240 1992 loom brand new from classicswede I traced the wires to the pins on the computer and the wires such as a/c and shift I've not used. Therw is a blue/black wire that has 12v which is speed sensor but unsure where that connects to I have the plug for the obd but not the box with the led and jumper and struggling to source one.

The flywheel is fitted so the blank in the teeth is at the bottom of the starter hole , I set tdc with a screwdriver in the piston I didn't check cam timing though the crank lines up with the zero timing mark.
 
I'm pretty sure you don't need to re-pin the ignition switch on an older car. Both k-jet cars (81 and 84) that I swapped to LH2.4 didn't need it. The fuse panel on earlier cars has a section that has 12v in On and Crank positions.
12v with "on" and "crank" needs to go to pin #35 (LH) and pin #6 (ezk).
Constant 12v (all the time, keeps ECUs from resetting themselves) goes to pin #4 (LH) and pin #5 (EZK).
 
The one power while cranking wire should only have power while cranking, it tells ECU that you are trying to start the car... It should not have power any other time.
 
Did you manage to fix this? I've got the same problem, one or two sparks then nothing. Car was working fine for months and is fine once it's started. I've been starting it by cranking foot to the floor and then quickly turning the key twice - this is working for now...

LH2.4 converted 343
 
105Charlie said:
Just seems weird that it worked absolutely fine for three months? I will check it
Click to expand...

Nope still not fixed , i found a local guy who's going to loan me a few fuel computers and ezk's and the diagnostic box I'm missing so will give those a go.

I've checked the ignition switch wiring found a 12v cranking wire tried running that to the 2 blue switched wires for the computers and still same one spark issue.
 
sbabbs said:
The one power while cranking wire should only have power while cranking, it tells ECU that you are trying to start the car... It should not have power any other time.
Click to expand...

Could you check which pin this is? I'm looking at the pinouts and can't see an obvious one that should ONLY have power when cranking.

I have the same problem. Gumpy, is your tachometer wired up? Does it jump when cranking?
 
I'm still not sure about it ONLY getting power when cranking. The pinout on ipdown.net suggests battery voltage at pin 35 when idling.
 
We'll I always just hook it to the wire going to the starter, the one that starts the car. The little one that kicks the starter relay or solenoid we call it here on. And that always works for me. And that wire only has power when you are cranking the starter over to start the car. Always worked for me....

I don't know what pin it is. I just cut and pasted that pin 35 from that only 4 wires to run lh2.4 thread. I'll check what color it is on the harness I put in my car and maybe I will test it with a continuity tester and see what pin it goes to on my ECU and post back. For the wire I hooked to the starter solenoid . The ignition switch is where it gets the power from of course. I traced that wire from the starter back into the cabin of the car under the dash to where it goes to the ignition switch and tied into with one of those clip it on a wire and add another wire things.

Besides the power while cranking wire, there is the other wire that is power with key switched on and it also has to have power while cranking also. That is a different wire and that is usually the one you have to re-pin your ignition switch on your 240 if it doesn't have that.

Somewhere I have my picture that spells it all out, but I can't seem to find it. I'll keep looking.
 
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Any luck gumpy? Don't leave the thread hanging. I'd be interested to know your voltage at the red/white wire to the coil. This is where mine seems to be wrong. It should be zero with ignition on, but I've got 2.5V.

Any ideas people?
 
I had this for a while, then it went once I fixed my alternator and fully charged my battery... Now it's back after a short drive. Let it cool down for a few mins and bam it's fine.

Seems very strange indeed
 
You mention only 1 spark per revolution. Is this checking with at the coil wire?

Being this is a 2.4 conversion, is there any chance you ended up with a Regina flexplate by mistake? Different tooth count...
 
I have to check my 0.02 in.
Auxilary belts were too tight and the engine would then die.
Ofc loosening these belts made the engine run a ok
 
gsellstr said:
You mention only 1 spark per revolution. Is this checking with at the coil wire?

Being this is a 2.4 conversion, is there any chance you ended up with a Regina flexplate by mistake? Different tooth count...
Click to expand...

That wouldn't explain myself having the same problem on and off though would it?

I was checking my sparks at the king lead
 
The "it was running but now won't start" is sometimes due to a failing ignition module, especially if the injectors are still firing. I think you can put a test light on pin 5 of the module and see the spark pulses coming from the EZK. Pin 1 of the module it the high-current spark pulse to the coil. Both should be firing at the same rate if the ignition module is good.
 
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