• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

temporary PVC fix? Valve cover breather?

Jressman

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
So my valve cover gasket (OEM) with less than 4K miles on it is spewing oil from the rear passenger side. I can’t tell if that’s the only place as well. Car is a 93 240 wagon with 204k miles. Just recently I noticed palm size oil spots after parking overnight. At first I thought it was a bad pan gasket but it appears to be leaking down the head by cylinder 4. I think I have excessive crankcase pressure to blow a gasket that quickly. I never replaced or cleaned the flame trap either. I have the parts, but it looks like a huge PITA and I’ll likely pull the intake manifold to make it easier. Thing is I live in Massachusetts and it’s winter without a garage. I don’t want to spend a small fortune having a shop do something I can do also. So my question is this:

Would pulling the valve cover and drilling 1 or 2 ports for a crankcase breather line into a catch can or just put a small filter that vents to the atmosphere get me through until spring when I can replace the entire PVC system the correct way? Parts yards have lots of 240s here and I can grab a valve cover from there to put it back to stock. I don’t have emissions or anything here. Would putting 2 breather ports into the valve cover lower crankcase pressure enough to prevent future seal and gaskets from getting blown out? I’ve had cars in the past with this setup and it worked on them.
 
I did check that. I snugged them up all about 1/4 turn. I hoped that would eliminate the leak, but it?s back.
 
Well, if properly installed... The new gasket shouldn't leak if you have excessive crankcase pressure.

Other gaskets usually let go then.
 
Which reminds me to remind you of the "latex glove test".

A latex gloves placed over the oil filler neck should not inflate.

Edit:// this is done while the car is running :)
 
Last edited:
I plan to drill the cam cover for a PCV valve grommet on the driver side by the oil fill cap, then fabricate an oil baffle under the oil cap above the cam lobes on number one cylinder, then install a Ford PCV valve into the grommet, then connect the PCV valve to intake manifold vacuum with 3/8" hose, then leave the remainder of the crankcase breather system in place.

This should result in a working PCV system. With LH2.2 I can tune the AMM to compensate for the planned vacuum leak.

After further research it appears that a vented breather cap could be installed at the valve (cam) cover and the PCV valve installed at the crankcase breather outlet hose. This way fresh air would enter the valve cover, be drawn down to the crankcase, up through the crankcase breather, then through a PCV valve, to unported intake manifold vacuum source.
 
Last edited:
I would add a little catch can/separator between the valve cover vent and manifold.
I don't think it should be looked at as vacuum leak since it's not drawing outside oxygen containing air. Crankcase contains mostly inert blow by and hydrocarbons from oil evaporation I think. Plus may be some raw fuel. Just adding inert gas by itself will make it slightly rich (that's how the EGR works) plus some more HC- you may end up with opposite effect from vacuum leak.
 
Last edited:
does anybody make a vented cap that fits the valve cover factory hole? On a b230? Ive drilled a factory one before then put a fitting on the cap for a hose but then battled the oil seeping thru the cover. So, I used silicone to seal the oil cap but doesnt stay for long. So Im back to the cleaning the flame trap.
 
OP crankcase ventilation couldn't be easier to deal with in your car. If it is plugged up... Fix it.

A cam cover gasket is a very easy repair.

Fix the car. Fix it right. There is no excuse for baling wire and bubble gum repairs.

If you are unable or unwilling to repair it right.... Hire someone who will.

This work is not difficult or expensive.
 
I am a big fan of glove test on any NA..works great and easy to do with a rubberband. But on a turbo, or +t car, I have never had the glove inflate at idle....is this ok?
 
I am a big fan of glove test on any NA..works great and easy to do with a rubberband. But on a turbo, or +t car, I have never had the glove inflate at idle....is this ok?


Yes its ok. It still shouldn't inflate if you have a turbo
 
Update:

Replaced the flame trap hoses filter. Did not look clogged at all. The hose from the intake boot to the upper portion of the trap did have a nice size tear in it. I did NOT replace the oil accumulator box though. I do not think that would be clogged if the rest of the system is pretty clear. I chance my oil every 2,000 miles which is about 2 times a year. I don?t drive very far and very often.

Old flame trap doesn?t look bad.




Used almost a full can of brake cleaner on the cylinder head and along the block to remove the oil that has been leaking. Started it up again and right away the valve cover is seeping pretty good. Going to replace the gasket and the rear camshaft plug.


 
are you sure you didn't blow out your rear cam seal? maybe its not a PCV issue at all? (video in link)

fullsize_8038.jpg


https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5561/103560-rear-cam-seal-retainer
 
Back
Top