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940 e fan in a 240 effective in SoCal heat?

Redwood Chair said:
Beats an engine that's heat soak damaged from the turbo.
Click to expand...

Lol old guys are funny, I should know I'm one of them. I'm using a 940T water/oil cooler, efan and radiator. I doubt Volvo went that route because it was cheaper, I don't think they would compromise on their reputation for reliability either. The Saab tee in the lower hose comes on at 199F and back off in about a minute at 189-190F, I don't smell anything the RWC is cooking. Different strokes for different folks though I reckon.
 
VB242 said:
Lol old guys are funny, I should know I'm one of them. I'm using a 940T water/oil cooler, efan and radiator. I doubt Volvo went that route because it was cheaper, I don't think they would compromise on their reputation for reliability either. The Saab tee in the lower hose comes on at 199F and back off in about a minute at 189-190F, I don't smell anything the RWC is cooking. Different strokes for different folks though I reckon.
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So just being clear, the tee goes in the lower hose on the left? And is it recommended to get a fuse for the wire that goes to the battery?
 
VB242 said:
Lol old guys are funny, I should know I'm one of them. I'm using a 940T water/oil cooler, efan and radiator. I doubt Volvo went that route because it was cheaper, I don't think they would compromise on their reputation for reliability either. The Saab tee in the lower hose comes on at 199F and back off in about a minute at 189-190F, I don't smell anything the RWC is cooking. Different strokes for different folks though I reckon.
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Tell that to Thomas / stealthfi.

I seem to remember he couldn't find a good E-fanned 940T engine block to build.

But hey if you're in a hurry and it revs up a tiny bit faster go for it!
 
GeneralBurrito said:
So just being clear, the tee goes in the lower hose on the left? And is it recommended to get a fuse for the wire that goes to the battery?
Click to expand...

Yes. Never install such a high current draw item without fusing it, you are just asking for trouble. Ask me how I know..

There are many many wrong and many many right ways to install and electric fan. Use good quality crimps, relays, fans,switches, and a good shroud.
 
Redwood Chair said:
Tell that to Thomas / stealthfi.

I seem to remember he couldn't find a good E-fanned 940T engine block to build.

But hey if you're in a hurry and it revs up a tiny bit faster go for it!
Click to expand...

I don't know anything about this, mine is a 200k mile work hardened B21 block that's been decked and cleaned up, maybe you'll be right eventually, I'll let you know.
 
Just follow the instruction on the link below for your cooling fan install instructions.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/volvo_electric_fan.shtml

Only thing I did different is my coolant switch adapter. I bought a cheap aluminum one off ebay... Drilled it out with a 1/2 drill bit then tapped 14X1.5 threads in it for my adapter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-hose-coolant-water-temperature-sender-Gauge-sensor-adaptor-32-mm-BLUE/253742095371?epid=10018891237&hash=item3b14351c0b:g:n1cAAOSwVXZbQ~hH

I installed a larger radiator from a 92 turbo, removed the water/oil cooler and have it mated to a manual transmission and live in Maine. Overkill maybe, but it gives me peace of mind when hauling my trailer.

41486618_10216837898955801_8321571927105732608_n.jpg
 
Nice, I've watched the video from David Bello a few times already, but this is more in depth.

Quick question, a friend has a relay and plugs, but the middle plug for the fan switch is missing the wires. Can I just rewire that plug or do I need a new complete one?
 
GeneralBurrito said:
Nice, I've watched the video from David Bello a few times already, but this is more in depth.

Quick question, a friend has a relay and plugs, but the middle plug for the fan switch is missing the wires. Can I just rewire that plug or do I need a new complete one?
Click to expand...

I could be mistaken, but I think a washer bottle plug is the same...yes you can hard wire it but you can also get a plug.
 
dbarton said:
....... If it has those, then no. It will ultimately produce less airflow through the smaller 940 shroud opening that the stock belt fan can pull.
Dave B
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Dave, do you have on/off data from the belt driven fan thermostatic clutch to validate this?

Doesn't the total airflow in SCFM depend upon how it is controlled? I don't believe the LH2.4 ECU controls the 9 series E-fan in the same fashion as an external trigger source.

I know you went far beyond 99% of TBers in E-fan experimentation and development of control for your 2 series. For most of the users, I expect their issues occur when bogged down in traffic with AC cycling..... the 9 series fan on HIGH moves some air. The only T-stat fan I've got in my fleet is on my 93 AERO Van with 4.0L, and I know I can hear that thing ROAR in the cabin when engaged..... but that is only in traffic with AC operating.
 
DET17 said:
Doesn't the total airflow in SCFM depend upon how it is controlled? I don't believe the LH2.4 ECU controls the 9 series E-fan in the same fashion as an external trigger source.

I know you went far beyond 99% of TBers in E-fan experimentation and development of control for your 2 series. For most of the users, I expect their issues occur when bogged down in traffic with AC cycling..... the 9 series fan on HIGH moves some air. The only T-stat fan I've got in my fleet is on my 93 AERO Van with 4.0L, and I know I can hear that thing ROAR in the cabin when engaged..... but that is only in traffic with AC operating.
Click to expand...

Does the fan only turn on with AC or does it also operate without?
 
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