• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

(Not*) Mediocre 242

They'd probably work.

Tate, I think you may have forgotten your anti squeal paste. Mine only squeak when really hot.
 
Coming together nicely! I'm with you on the brakes, that's the next place I'm going to spend a little money.

Yeah. I gotta do rear suspension first, then brakes. What do you think you'll do for brakes?

Put me on the list to buy your rx-7 brake set up. I want to try to fit them on a 140.

You got it.

They'd probably work.

Tate, I think you may have forgotten your anti squeal paste. Mine only squeak when really hot.

I haven't. I've applied it multiple times, and they squealed on every. single. stop. Maybe mine had something nasty on them, but I really didn't like them.
 
I might have a problem with fueling. Fuel pressure is the white curve and is dropping at high boost according to my ebay sensor.

AgsCxYyh.png


I find that hard to believe as I have a Walbro 450 in the tank. But it might be the stock hard lines under the car. I might get a nicer sensor and see if I'm actually dropping pressure, but if it's not that, I'm not really sure what to check. Any other ideas what I can do to fix the pressure drop?
 
I'm with Harald on the voltage. Fuel demand goes up, current draw goes up. I noticed some change in behavior for the better on my wagon when I ran #10 and a relay for the AEM 320 in the tank. Stock pump was spec'd around 4-5A at max, my AEM is 15A.
 
The factory lines are pretty small, the 850's are even worse. I did AN6 (maybe 8, it's been a few years) from the tank forward on the t5r and went from 13-14:1 to 12:1 under boost. Might be worth looking at.You can push the fuel thru but volume really helps.

That's in my plans eventually. The only stock fuel lines I still have are the hard lines under the car. I'll eventually upgrade those to 3/8" so my whole supply is the same ID. I won't mess with the return, as there's no real reason.

In any case, the problem is fixed.

MEAOPA0h.png


A couple messages to Erik and he knew instantly what the problem was. The Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator wasn't sealing properly, and bleeding off pressure. I remember reading a thread about it here once, but it didn't even cross my mind until Erik brought it up. When I pulled it apart, it didn't look terrible, but it did seem a bit uneven. So I countersunk the hole a bit and the problem seems to be gone. I did a few 30 psi pulls and didn't hit my fuel pressure safety shutdown. I'll test more tonight when I do some more tuning.

drwh4oVh.jpg


Q7K9y30h.jpg


I knew it wasn't the fuel pump or wiring. It's got 10 (or 12 I can't remember) AWG tefzel wire all the way back from the fuse. I went through all that when I still had the DW300. But I'm glad it wasn't the fuel line diameter, I don't really want to deal with that yet.
 
Nice job on all the progress recently, and solving the fueling issue.

We use those Porterhouse pads on the E36 Lemons car; they have been awesome. We literally get about 3 to 4 races out of one set of pads now (after replacing the dumb BMW rubber caliper bushings with bronze). I believe it's the R4 or R4-E pad that we use. Which compound did you go with?

Re: roughness from rear suspension over bumps: what are your front & rear spring rates / wheel rates? Old rule of thumb is to make your rear ride frequency about 1.15 to 1.20x front frequency, to account for the time delay of the wheelbase with the vehicle traveling over a bump at speed. Obviously that will only be optimized for one particular speed and wheelbase.
 
We use those Porterhouse pads on the E36 Lemons car; they have been awesome. We literally get about 3 to 4 races out of one set of pads now (after replacing the dumb BMW rubber caliper bushings with bronze). I believe it's the R4 or R4-E pad that we use. Which compound did you go with?

Re: roughness from rear suspension over bumps: what are your front & rear spring rates / wheel rates? Old rule of thumb is to make your rear ride frequency about 1.15 to 1.20x front frequency, to account for the time delay of the wheelbase with the vehicle traveling over a bump at speed. Obviously that will only be optimized for one particular speed and wheelbase.

I went with the R4s pads. It's apparently supposed to be a bit more street/track day oriented rather than a full race pad. I've been pretty happy with them so far, but I need more drive time before I can really develop an opinion. I'm just happy they're quiet.

My front springs are 350 lb/in and my rears are currently 175 lb/in. I expect to bring the rear up to 225 lb/in or so, but that may change once I do some math. Thanks for the frequency recommendation. I'll have to take that into consideration when I spec out coilovers for the rear. I really need to get an accurate weight measurement first. I think my school has a scale setup I can borrow for a day.
 
I did some more tuning with my buddy tonight to get ready for the drags this weekend. I think I have a boost leak or we're maxing out the 7064. No matter what the wastegate duty is, the turbo struggles to make the 305 kpa target. It gets closest in 4th gear, but doesn't really make it and then starts to taper off. I don't think I have a boost leak, but I'll check. The car feels pretty fast, probably somewhere around 400 whp, which makes sense if the turbo is maxed out. The 7064 "has potential for 560 hp" at the crank. Factor in drivetrain loss, generous power ratings from BW, and elevation, and it would probably match pretty well with my output. So if anyone wants a 7064 with a non wastegate 1.04 housing let me know and I'll give you a deal so I can upgrade to a 7670.

Sorry for the bad image quality. To get it looking good it has to be way too big. Here's the link to the original image: https://i.imgur.com/npnWZd3.png?1

npnWZd3h.png
 
Yes, if you are tuning it yourself, kpa is a much smarter way to go.

metric system ftw. Why bother with inches of mercury and pounds / square inch when you can have a continuous scale.
 
It's easy to convert too. 100 kpa = 14.5 psi which is atmospheric pressure. So 100 kpa is zero boost and 300 kpa is close to 30 psi of boost.
 
I was still having fuel pressure dropping at high boost in 3rd gear which kept triggering my engine safety shutdown. This is the second to last midnight drags at my local track ever, so I don't want any excuses or problems. I bought and installed a new Deatschwerks DWR1000 regulator. It's got a much bigger body than the aeromotive, but uses the same fittings.

Sorry for bad lighting. Aeromotive:

YYjh0PJh.jpg


Deatschwerks:

4UN5nc2h.jpg


Comparison:
KAeNcmAh.jpg


I no longer have the noise or tapering off in my fuel pressure signal. It follows MAP pretty much perfectly:

https://i.imgur.com/bJUnIiM.png
bJUnIiMh.png


I still don't hit my boost target, but the car moves out pretty well. I did a pull with a loud nice looking old camaro with pretty big tires and the license plate "evil 67" and put busses on him. I'm really excited to see what it'll trap at the strip. I don't care much about E.T, but I hope to see a good trap speed.
 
Back
Top