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B230 n/a mild performance mods

Wow John, this is outstanding information. At first glance it all makes sense, now give me a few minutes to re-read and process it all haha.

Thing to remember is if you get a bigger gulp of air via the quicker opening and higher lift, you need to think of a coupla things..To make more powerz you need air and fuel...

The stock ECU can to some degree compensate--after all it looks at voulme of air flowing thru..A easy thing to do if you can is up fuel pressure..I haven't looked at the fuel pressure regulator with any kind of evil intent but some are easy to adjust..
On some of my cars its a Weber-Marelli pressure reg, and it looks sealed but in reality theres a pressed in cheezoid cover you just run a self-tapping screw in and pry and underneath the thing is a 3mm allen...super easy..

Another thing is the runners themselves are a restriction---the runners from pleum to head.. so there for what I'm doing I said meh that's good enough...

But if a guy had some way to hack them out and weld in large ID runners, then moar powerz is waiting, particularly more revs---

Of course you go this route with a cam from overthere you will certainly want fresh valve springs......but that's not as horrible expensive as "everybody" wants to think...

But that's down the road if you decide..
 
Ok so let's take this educational lesson to the next level. How would the adjustable timing gear play into this equation?
 
Ok so let's take this educational lesson to the next level. How would the adjustable timing gear play into this equation?

That would not be next level, that is simply applying this level.
With an adjustable cam timing pulley, the lesson is that you don't get something for nothing.
It'll go better for you in the end if you use your head a bit and try to fill in the blanks yourself instead of just poking the old bear.

With regard to cam lobes and valve timing, it's like the Stones ditty. If you try, sometimes, you just might find...
 
messing with CR and cam works but swapping in a 4,10:1 rear axel (can be found on 16V NA automatic cars, some also had the G80 locker installed, if not, just weld the spider gears solid. Good enough for some low level rallycross fun)
and
using lower section tires (like 195/50 x 15, lower circumference gives shorter total driveline ratio)
both mods will give the car instant faster acceleration. Both were popular Volvo original rallycup mods back in 2003/2004.
With these mods you might even need 3rd gear. LOL
 
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messing with CR and cam works but swapping in a 4,10:1 rear axel (can be found on 16V NA automatic cars, some also had the G80 locker installed, if not, just weld the spider gears solid. Good enough for some low level rallycross fun)
and
using lower section tires (like 195/50 x 15, lower circumference gives shorter total driveline ratio)
both mods will give the car instant faster acceleration. Both were popular Volvo original rallycup mods back in 2003/2004.
With these mods you might even need 3rd gear. LOL

What ratio does he have now?

Gearing is nice, and I am always puzzled how people overlook it..
But if my wag-goon is anything to judge by Volvo late 80s n.a. things are shockingly mild--politely put..
Compression is nice and non-emissions cams are fun....especially cams intended to be used just for this sort of thing..
 
Not sure on the ratio yet, I'll attempt to clean the tag off tonight.

Called the machine shop yesterday and they'll shave the head for $50.

Next race is in two weeks so I suspect the engine mods won't happen before then. If I can source a locker I may try to get that under the cr before then and save engine mods for the last race or over winter.
Would throwing a B or K cam in quickly do anything or is it a waste of time?
 
Skip the g80 locker and go for a Spartan locker. It'll replace the spider gears with a locker, and it uses the open carrier that's currently in the car(still gotta pull it out though).
We have one in the rally car, WAY better turn-in than a welded diff, and way more predictable than a g80.
 
What ratio does he have now?

Gearing is nice, and I am always puzzled how people overlook it..
But if my wag-goon is anything to judge by Volvo late 80s n.a. things are shockingly mild--politely put..
Compression is nice and non-emissions cams are fun....especially cams intended to be used just for this sort of thing..
3.91 or shorter rear and drop 500lbs of weight and they wake right up. Not a good plan for a comfortable driver, but a cheap "race car" it helps.

The K won't help your low end. The B will allow the engine to rev better that the M. I'd recommend the B if you have easy access to one.
In my opinion the B cam still feels like a slow stock cam. The K at least feels like you made a worthwhile change.
 
3.91 or shorter rear and drop 500lbs of weight and they wake right up. Not a good plan for a comfortable driver, but a cheap "race car" it helps.


In my opinion the B cam still feels like a slow stock cam. The K at least feels like you made a worthwhile change.

The B cam is a baby step up the ladder from an M cam for a daily driver. That's about it.
 
Skip the g80 locker and go for a Spartan locker. It'll replace the spider gears with a locker, and it uses the open carrier that's currently in the car(still gotta pull it out though).
We have one in the rally car, WAY better turn-in than a welded diff, and way more predictable than a g80.

Where did you get your Spartan Locker from. Been eyeballing a lunchbox locker for a while now.
 
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