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Benefits studs against bolts?

Chilm

Chilm

Double Dutch
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Location
The Netherlands
Hi guy's,

on several occasions I saw a 230 block with studs in the block instead of bolds that goes thru the head.

What are the benefits of studs, is it better?
Just wondering cuz building a new block and every improvement is welcome ;)
 
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Very good read above, and not too long to where my adhd self could read it all.

At the very end it says that studs make it to where the engine must be removed in order to remove the head. I can see this being a problem on some v6 or v8, but is this the case on our house of an engine bay, in-line 4 cars? I?ve never messed with studs before, so I?m sorry if that?s a rediculously stupid question haha
 
All the studs I've ever used to replace head bolts have an Allen head in the end of them. If there's not enough room to slide the head off - just remove the studs, then pull the head. Surprised the author suggested the motor would have to be removed.
 
Wesdunns70t5m said:
Very good read above, and not too long to where my adhd self could read it all.

At the very end it says that studs make it to where the engine must be removed in order to remove the head. I can see this being a problem on some v6 or v8, but is this the case on our house of an engine bay, in-line 4 cars? I’ve never messed with studs before, so I’m sorry if that’s a rediculously stupid question haha
Click to expand...

Nope... no problem with our 4 cilinder engines, and further what M.H. Yount say's :nod:
@apachechef: thanks for that link, nice wannahave.
 
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The reason I was told about bolt/stud choice: when using studs you have less chance to damage the part that it threads into. When using bolts there is pull and twist which is harder on block's threads than just pull action. So it's about safety and repeated serviceability.
 
Torque

One other question regarding the studs, do I apply the same torque and sequence as with the bolts?
I can imagine it wil different or not?

Cheers
 
MikeSr. said:
Using studs eliminates the twisting torque that bolts require.
Click to expand...

I'm not convinced. Think about where the forces are going while tightening the nut/bolt. There's a component that torsionally loads the shank of the bolt or stud, and a portion that clamps the head down. The torque is less due to a better quality finish on the stud's threads, the nut, and any accompanying lubricant, but for any threaded device to work, some torque must be there.

The reason to use studs is that you can make a stud out of a stronger steel than you can a bolt, so that you don't have to torque them to yield, making them stronger and more repeatable than a bolt. You can also use a fine pitch thread on the top end of the stud, reducing the torque required to reach a certain clamp load.
 
culberro said:
It will be different. The supplier or vendor should supply you with the correct torque spec.

Link to ARP stud torque sequence @ Yoshifab: https://yoshifab.com/store/webdocs/torquespecqrr.htm
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mck1117 said:
I'm not convinced. Think about where the forces are going while tightening the nut/bolt. There's a component that torsionally loads the shank of the bolt or stud, and a portion that clamps the head down. The torque is less due to a better quality finish on the stud's threads, the nut, and any accompanying lubricant, but for any threaded device to work, some torque must be there.

The reason to use studs is that you can make a stud out of a stronger steel than you can a bolt, so that you don't have to torque them to yield, making them stronger and more repeatable than a bolt. You can also use a fine pitch thread on the top end of the stud, reducing the torque required to reach a certain clamp load.
Click to expand...

Just what I thought guy's, I will ask the supplier (J2) for the right specs.
Thank you for your answers, and... studs make sense ;)
 
mck1117 said:
I'm not convinced. Think about where the forces are going while tightening the nut/bolt. There's a component that torsionally loads the shank of the bolt or stud, and a portion that clamps the head down. The torque is less due to a better quality finish on the stud's threads, the nut, and any accompanying lubricant, but for any threaded device to work, some torque must be there.

The reason to use studs is that you can make a stud out of a stronger steel than you can a bolt, so that you don't have to torque them to yield, making them stronger and more repeatable than a bolt. You can also use a fine pitch thread on the top end of the stud, reducing the torque required to reach a certain clamp load.
Click to expand...

If you have enough money the steel can be of the same quality. ARP offers high strength bolts too (maybe not for this particular application).While there is torque being applied since it is a screw, it is not being applied over the entire fastener. See link...
https://m.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92024/engine-studs-understanding-the-advantages-of-using-studs-vs-bolts-and-tips-on-achieving-proper-cl

Studs provide the ability to obtain much more accurate torque values because the studs don?t twist during tightening as do bolts. Because the studs remain stationary during nut tightening, the studs stretch in one axis alone, providing much more even and accurate clamping forces. Also, because the use of studs results in less wear applied to the block?s threads, this extends the life of the threaded holes in the block over periods of servicing/rebuilding.
Click to expand...

Factory bolts are selected based on costs that will meet the designed application. Any of the fasteners require proper installation to meet their respective performance parameters- like the lube...
 
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