home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > performance & modifications > aftermarket engine management

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-09-2019, 09:12 PM   #26
Alan29
Board Member
 
Alan29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Tampa, FL
Default

Excellent info on the FP wiring... thanks!

My engine wire harness under the hood is complete crap for the most part (a significant reason as to why I'm doing this MS install). Wouldn't be surprised if the fuel pump wire to the junction is garbage as well. I replaced the positive battery wire a few months ago and don't recall seeing anything trashed into the junction. Doesn't meant it isn't trashed further downstream, but maybe I'll luck out. Wish I had the time to really dig into all the under hood wiring at once. The headlamp wiring has seen better days as well.
__________________
Signature.
Alan29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2020, 09:18 PM   #27
Alan29
Board Member
 
Alan29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Tampa, FL
Default

Well...it's about to begin. Been spending some time this week yanking all the kjet and ac components. Trying to clean things up the best I can as I move along. Hind sight I should have gone all out with some degreaser and a pressure washer before hand. But also probably would have trashed my driveway. Going to do the best I can with cheap dish brushes and whatnot.

Tomorrow I'm going to start labelling and pulling the old harness. Few things I need to try to salvage from it if they are still in good order (exciter, alt, oil pressure, temp). My grey connectors at the firewall are complete trash so I may just pick up a weatherpack connector or something for the temp and oil leads I guess.

As with any project I'm running into more crap. Need to replace the radiator, get the stuff to move my ps pump down where the AC was, etc. Hardest part at this point is keeping all this organized in my tiny garage.

Anywho...thanks again for all the info. I'll post updates as it progresses.
Alan29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2020, 03:16 PM   #28
Alan29
Board Member
 
Alan29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Tampa, FL
Default

Going much slower than anticipated. Pending an IPD order that is tied up from a Volvo heater hose from Canada to finish up the hardware installation side of things. Did finish up mounting the IC, rad, and efan (woohoo progress). Everything else is ripped out. Right now I'm working on replacing the existing wiring to the oil pressure, alternator, temp sensor, and start.

I'm taking advice here and doing the fuses and relays in the engine compartment as opposed to under the dash like I had originally planned. I couldn't find a fuse/relay box that fit my needs and budget so I'm using the fuse block I already have and placing that with my two MS relays and fan relay into a waterproof project box I found. Wires will pass through with waterproof cable glands. Going to mount it up where the ignition module and coil were mounted to keep it looking (hopefully) clean and stockish. Should have that box in my hands today so I can get all that complete.

Once I have my IPD order in hand its really just a matter of finding the time to do everything.
Alan29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2020, 04:16 PM   #29
Dirty Rick
Board Member
 
Dirty Rick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Cornholio, OR
Default

amazon.com/MICTUNING-Fuse-Relay-Switch-w/Harness
__________________
I don't know who I am when I am somebody else.
Dirty Rick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2020, 02:35 PM   #30
linuxman51
BRANDSCHUTZVORSCHRIFTEN!
 
linuxman51's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: mont, AL
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
I bought those a few weeks ago, they're not terrible.
__________________
"They bum rushed them in their own crib, they drank all their beer, they partied with their ladies and they left with the trophy"

Now with in-house Dyno tuning!

Megasquirt Tuning!
Plug and play LH 2.4 Megasquirt, now with stealth mode!
linuxman51 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2020, 03:24 PM   #31
Dirty Rick
Board Member
 
Dirty Rick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Cornholio, OR
Default

I just realized, If mounted underhood, They need a cover as they are not water tight.
Dirty Rick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2020, 08:24 PM   #32
VB242
F*ck 12
 
VB242's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: In my 15x20 Corona cell
Default

I use those relays without a cover, OP you'll need whatever pull up resistors, heat shrink tubing, heat shrink electrical connectors, and a nice heat gun, I think I got a porter cable from home Depot for fairly cheap
__________________
"i will destroy all of you!"
-Sheldon Plankton

Booty Scooty
https://youtu.be/i4oAOZ8nbq4
VB242 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2020, 03:48 PM   #33
Victorrr
Board Member
 
Victorrr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Angers, France
Default

Hmmm, interesting thread. Ima do a bit of hijacking but that's better than creating a different thread on the same topic right..?
I'm going to follow this thread as I plan on doing the same thing - Microsquirt an 88 na K Jet, wasted cop, Yoshifab CAS, only difference is I'm using different coils (Delphi D514A) and that I'll be running E85 on it - with a flex fuel sensor ofc - oh and it being an Euro spec car its a B200, K cast, got my hands on 13mm H rods.

My biggest issue right now is sourcing the parts, euro - dollar exchange rate is low, import fees and shipping is high. Figure out 900 usd for the MS, CAS and coil bracket from Yoshifab...

Looks like OP is going with fuses under the hood, I'd like to make a separate fuse box in the car for the various MS - fuel pump stuff ect...
Any drawbacks in removing the glovebox to make an ECU - fusebox compartment, appart from the fact that I'll lose the storage space..?

I assume it's possible to keep the mechanical fan and then switch to E fan later on ? France's climate isn't harsh and I plan on running a nice 16 row Mocal oil cooler + E85 runs cooler too, but I'm not sure how it affects it all.

Oh and something else that I don't quite understand is the crank position sensor - to drive the wasted spark - this https://yoshifab.com/store/billet-re...s-adapter.html alone isn't enough to drive it ? Sourcing a 60 - 2 flywheel isn't that easy here... From what I understand, It is not enough alone. There are a few website that sells trigger wheel options, with VR sensor. https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar...v-3-spar-.html this solution looks like it could mount either a 60 - 2 trigger wheel or a 36 - 1. The website also offers brackets, sensors and wiring. Would this single VR output be enough to drive my injectors (all at once, I don't plan on going sequential) AND a waster spark system ?

Last but not least, I don't really understand the whole wasted spark/wasted cop options with the 2 VS 4 output (I'm relating to this "There are 2 ways to do "wasted spark" with COP, use the wasted spark setting and pair up the coils, or use "wasted COP" and use all 4 outputs." from Dirty Rick)
__________________
1988 240 GL - a slow white sedan, 180k on the clock (or 290k km for us). Going crazy with bike carbs
Victorrr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2020, 08:14 PM   #34
Alan29
Board Member
 
Alan29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Tampa, FL
Default

Main drawback I can see to putting everything in the glove box is possible added complication of you need to remove the dash board. You would want to install it so there is minimal work to be done with the MS stuff should you need to yank the dash. That may not even really be a draw back. Really all user dependent and what you are comfy with.

The Yoshifab DSM CAS adapter plus a DSM CAS with the appropriate wheel installed in the CAS is all you need for crank position. No need for messing with a flywheel.

You can def keep the mechanical fan. Many do.
Alan29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2020, 06:57 AM   #35
Victorrr
Board Member
 
Victorrr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Angers, France
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan29 View Post
Main drawback I can see to putting everything in the glove box is possible added complication of you need to remove the dash board. You would want to install it so there is minimal work to be done with the MS stuff should you need to yank the dash. That may not even really be a draw back. Really all user dependent and what you are comfy with.

The Yoshifab DSM CAS adapter plus a DSM CAS with the appropriate wheel installed in the CAS is all you need for crank position. No need for messing with a flywheel.

You can def keep the mechanical fan. Many do.
Hmmm, the wheel sold by Yoshifab isn't the appropriate one, right ?
I think I'll go with the modded pulley style solution, I can get the whole settup with brackets and sensor for cheaper than the Yoshifab CAS (thx shipping and customs...)
Any big drawbacks with this solution ? Brackets aren't an issue as the company sells them.
Any difference between a 36 - 1 teeth and 60 - 2 teeth wheel ?

Thanks for the help
Victorrr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2020, 12:36 PM   #36
Dirty Rick
Board Member
 
Dirty Rick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Cornholio, OR
Default

A 36 tooth wheel is a better choice for a MS2/MicroSquirt as a 60 tooth wheel is pushing the processors capabilities.

60 teeth comes real close to "to much information" for a MS2 but a MS3 will not be bothered.

60 teeth "works" with MS2 but at high RPM it will slow down the code by updating faster than the MS2 can process.

Last edited by Dirty Rick; 02-22-2020 at 12:44 PM..
Dirty Rick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2020, 01:16 PM   #37
Victorrr
Board Member
 
Victorrr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Angers, France
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
A 36 tooth wheel is a better choice for a MS2/MicroSquirt as a 60 tooth wheel is pushing the processors capabilities.

60 teeth comes real close to "to much information" for a MS2 but a MS3 will not be bothered.

60 teeth "works" with MS2 but at high RPM it will slow down the code by updating faster than the MS2 can process.
Thanks for the infos ! Then 36 is the way. Plus on the 60 tooth versions, the tooth looks damn small. It being mounted on the front of the engine I'd rather have the more rugged thicc teeth yeah.

OP, for the coil bracket, are you going homemade or aftermarket ?
Im tempted by aftermarket ones but damn, the cost. Yoshifab one + import fees is above a hundred eurossss...
Victorrr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2020, 08:51 PM   #38
Alan29
Board Member
 
Alan29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Tampa, FL
Default

The Yoshifab coil mount was one of the "luxury" items I went with on the build. It's a nice piece for sure, but you could be creative and put something together for sure.
Alan29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2020, 09:04 AM   #39
Victorrr
Board Member
 
Victorrr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Angers, France
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan29 View Post
The Yoshifab coil mount was one of the "luxury" items I went with on the build. It's a nice piece for sure, but you could be creative and put something together for sure.
It's the cost that bother me...
And I'm not sure about the definition of the thing, the wheel inside it seems to have less pins + the dizzy turns quite slowly.

Also I'm tired of clocking dizzy, so that's out of the way.

I got my hands on an old old but nice O Scope, will be useful when dealing with VR sensors ^^
Victorrr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2020, 05:02 PM   #40
Alan29
Board Member
 
Alan29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Tampa, FL
Default

I haven't run across any other sort of LS coil mounting solutions for this car. Could always look at mounting them on the apron or something. There are a few universal type mounts on Amazon and the like that stack them together fairly well.
Alan29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2020, 05:05 PM   #41
Alan29
Board Member
 
Alan29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Tampa, FL
Default

So today I finished up mounting my fuse block and relays inside a waterproof box. Turned out better than expected. I can't for the life of me figure out how to get Google photos to show up here otherwise I would share.
Alan29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2020, 05:33 PM   #42
Victorrr
Board Member
 
Victorrr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Angers, France
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan29 View Post
I haven't run across any other sort of LS coil mounting solutions for this car. Could always look at mounting them on the apron or something. There are a few universal type mounts on Amazon and the like that stack them together fairly well.
Yoshifab sells one but I can't afford it ahah, so fab we go.

I can't post pics here either, not yet I think.

You can simply create a google photo album (public) and share it here, so we can all see how it's going. I do plan on video taping mine (My future MicroSquirt install if I have the time, not sure)
Victorrr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2020, 08:18 PM   #43
Alan29
Board Member
 
Alan29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Tampa, FL
Default

Album link of random 244 stuff:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bdXShfPT1UEx1P869

Last edited by Alan29; 02-24-2020 at 08:42 PM..
Alan29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2020, 03:37 AM   #44
Victorrr
Board Member
 
Victorrr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Angers, France
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan29 View Post
Album link of random 244 stuff:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bdXShfPT1UEx1P869
wow man, this is a clean install. I'll try to grab a fuse box like this one, nice car.
Victorrr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2020, 07:31 AM   #45
Alan29
Board Member
 
Alan29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Tampa, FL
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Victorrr View Post
wow man, this is a clean install. I'll try to grab a fuse box like this one, nice car.
Thanks! Hoping to keep it that way once the real wiring chaos begins. Not too thrilled with how my in line resistors turned out but they will be under the plastic loom stuff. Functionally they should be just fine though in the long run.
Alan29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2020, 05:06 PM   #46
rb92673
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: San Clemente
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan29 View Post
Thanks! Hoping to keep it that way once the real wiring chaos begins. Not too thrilled with how my in line resistors turned out but they will be under the plastic loom stuff. Functionally they should be just fine though in the long run.
What are you using the resistors for in-line?
rb92673 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2020, 05:14 PM   #47
Victorrr
Board Member
 
Victorrr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Angers, France
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan29 View Post
Thanks! Hoping to keep it that way once the real wiring chaos begins. Not too thrilled with how my in line resistors turned out but they will be under the plastic loom stuff. Functionally they should be just fine though in the long run.
Yeah just I don't understand the last pic where you tuc the wires back in a weird loop, like, why you doin' that ^^ for strenght or something ?

rb, the resistors are recommended for a MS install, I think its the coil ones. To clean the signal and other stuff I can't really explain right.
Victorrr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2020, 05:20 PM   #48
Mbeas96
Board Member
 
Mbeas96's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Charleston
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Victorrr View Post
Yeah just I don't understand the last pic where you tuc the wires back in a weird loop, like, why you doin' that ^^ for strenght or something ?
.

I assume it's so if there's any tug on the wire it won't disrupt the resistor.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Bill View Post
You are not a man unless you've thrown up at a turbobricks meet.

My build thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=340910
Mbeas96 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2020, 05:43 PM   #49
rb92673
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: San Clemente
Default

I know of a requirement for a 1k pull up resistor, but that is wired between the 12v power source and the signal wire for the crank/cam sensor.
rb92673 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2020, 08:55 PM   #50
Alan29
Board Member
 
Alan29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Tampa, FL
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Victorrr View Post
Yeah just I don't understand the last pic where you tuc the wires back in a weird loop, like, why you doin' that ^^ for strenght or something ?

rb, the resistors are recommended for a MS install, I think its the coil ones. To clean the signal and other stuff I can't really explain right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mbeas96 View Post
I assume it's so if there's any tug on the wire it won't disrupt the resistor.
Yeah basically strain relief in case something pulls on it. Figured worth doing with the resistors being relatively fragile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rb92673 View Post
I know of a requirement for a 1k pull up resistor, but that is wired between the 12v power source and the signal wire for the crank/cam sensor.
I'm running the CAS. It's my understanding i need to jump from the TPS VREF to the VR1- and VR2- leads with a 1k pull-up, no?
Alan29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:19 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.