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Old 11-26-2019, 05:57 PM   #1
vcolper
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Default warm up regulator for an 83 240 Turbo. Dont know the correct part number but Im p

warm up regulator for an 83 240 Turbo.
Dont know the correct part number but Im pretty sure the one in my car is incorrect, 0438140-014
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EX-POR15 Distributor

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http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=280734
1986 740T parts car, 1994 940 na, 1993 945T. 1991 940T(sold), 1992 940T(sold), 1991 240(sold), 1991 240 parts car, 1992 240 5sp parts car(sold), 1984 242 GLT SOLD, 1973 Triumph TR6 project(sold), 2003 Silverado Daily Driver
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Old 11-26-2019, 08:33 PM   #2
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Yes, you have the incorrect part. The proper one for your car can either end with an 079 or a 123. The 123 version has a longer warmup time otherwise they are both the same and work on 81-83 turbos.
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1982 242 turbo. 340k miles. Good stuff and lots of rust.
1993 245 Classic, 420k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.
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Old 11-26-2019, 09:43 PM   #3
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Thanks. You wouldnt happen to have an extra one for a reasonable price?
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Old 11-29-2019, 01:48 PM   #4
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No, my last good one went on my car a few years ago. There is the Delorean specialty parts place that rebuilds them.

http://www.ferrari400parts.com/Warmu...atorrepair.php
There is a place called CIS flowtech. I've never used any of them. There are also rebuild kits available but I haven't tried that yet either. But the next one I have issues with I may try a rebuild kit.
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Old 12-04-2019, 12:56 AM   #5
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bump
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Old 12-04-2019, 12:31 PM   #6
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Put a listing in wanted if you are looking for good used.
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Old 12-04-2019, 10:49 PM   #7
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I did,
Thanks
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Old 12-14-2019, 06:58 PM   #8
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Ok Ive got the "correct" WUR, still missing the delay valve.
I have some questions.
Is the delay valve a regular check valve?
Where does the line circled in red connect to?
The option circled in green..... what is that? Another market?
See link below for image

Thanks



https://ibb.co/8YNhbLQ
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Old 12-14-2019, 07:13 PM   #9
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Yes, the delay valve is a regular check valve like the type used with carburators. Usually marked with flow arrows or writing. One side is a different color to help you install it in the correct direction. Maybe hiperfauto has a diagram. The delay valve setup is used 81-83. Then the 84-85 setup is with #21 in the diagram. The other vacuum hose setup is for a B21ET (155hp!) which we didn't get.

There is also supposed to be a vacuum diagram in the engine compartment. Usually on the front slam panel.

Last edited by dl242gt; 12-14-2019 at 07:14 PM.. Reason: make a correction
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Old 12-15-2019, 12:53 AM   #10
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Thanks again, Ill check that vacuum diagram.... if still there
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Old 12-15-2019, 01:34 AM   #11
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The vacuum diagram doesn't show the WUR hose routing in detail. Here's a pic from the greenbook.



The hose circled in red goes to the intake manifold.
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Old 12-15-2019, 11:47 AM   #12
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Yes to the intake manifold,but where. Id have to "T" it in place.
Should it go where the Cranckcase ventilation system line or maybe the distributor advance vacuum line?

Thanks
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Old 12-15-2019, 03:21 PM   #13
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If you look carefully at the intake manifold on the side where the cold start valve is. Look under the cold start valve and you will see a vacuum port on the manifold plenum. Connect the hose from the thermo valve to that port by itself.
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Old 12-15-2019, 06:34 PM   #14
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OK, I had the Distributor and Charcoal canister connected there.
I just connected as you said.

My original problem still remains,
To get the engine to stay running and accelerate I have to enrichen the mixture stupidly. Idles ruff and puffs a lot of black smoke
Once i start leaning it, idle will smooth out, then if I accelerate it, it boggs down, like needing fuel. If i let go suddenly of the throttle it'll shut off sometimes

When I purchased the car the PO had replaced the idle air control valve with a PVC ball valve and had the Mixture very rich....Thats why I replaced the IAC valve and adjusted the mixture, adjusted the throttle valve.
After that the car wouldnt accelerate... idle nice though.
Then I went looking for leaks.... Found leaks all over, turbo inlet hose had a slit half way around, intake gasket, injector seals/o rings, vacuum hoses all rotten, in tank pump not running
All was replaced including both (new) fuel pumps, new Idle air control valve and I just installed a correct (used)WUR that I purchased here
Any suggestions?
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Old 12-15-2019, 07:16 PM   #15
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Ok well the distributor is T into the small charcoal canistor hose correctly. But after they T together the hose goes to the small port on the back of the throttle body. Right next to the larger port for the charcoal canistor large hose. Now you will probably accelerate a bit better. The only other vacuum port is the one on the number four intake runner which goes to the enrichment valve on the fire wall and is also T off to go inside the car to the boost gauge and overpressure switch.

You'll need a dwell or duty cycle gauge to check the lambda system. Check that the boost enrichment is working. Connect a coolant test pump up to the switch and see that the connections are shorted when it hits about 2.9psi. You can use a test light on the positive battery terminal and connect the other side to the wire that goes inside the car. You do this without the engine running.Make sure you hear the frequency valve. If you don't check the lambda relay on the left inner fender. It's the small gray square one. it is powered up by the fuel pump relay. Use a test light to make sure that part of the fuel pump relay circuit turns on. I think it's terminal 87b on the fuel pump relay. Without the boost enrichment there is not enough fuel in boost so the engine will bog. You can't compensate for that with a super rich mixture adjustment like the PO did.

You on the right path. A turbo needs a lot more care and parts replacement when refurbishing the car. You can pick up a Bentley manual for the turbos which has a lot of great information on these cars. There was green books and a Bentley for sale in 15A for sale thread.
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Old 12-15-2019, 07:20 PM   #16
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Btw, I bought my turbo in 95 and it needed much of the same parts replaced back then. The main problem besides all that other stuff you mentioned was the control pressure regulator was bad. It had clogged up and leaned out the mixture under all driving situations.
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Old 12-16-2019, 02:01 PM   #17
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Here's a link to the B21FT greenbook.

https://ozvolvo.org/archive/?downloa...RfMTk4MS5wZGY=

Have you checked cold and warm return fuel pressures to verify the WUR is working?
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Old 12-16-2019, 04:00 PM   #18
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Thanks to all, Ill be working on it this week as time permits.
I only have a regular Fuel injection pressure gauge kit, dont have a CIS fuel injection pressure gauge kit.

Anybody seen or tested this one I found on EBAY? Seems to have the adapters for the BANJO fittings

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254346047964?ul_noapp=true
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Old 12-16-2019, 04:30 PM   #19
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I didn't see anything with banjo fittings in the tester kits. You can reuse the fittings from bad lines or a place like belmetric may have something. If you reuse banjo fittings then you don't need adapters. They will bolt on with the same bolt as the fuel line. So you just need new sealing washers for when you remove and replace the lines.
There are some good writeups for making your own tester setup. I bought one from IPD and that setup uses banjo fittings on the ends that seal into the hose with clamps.
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Old 12-16-2019, 04:49 PM   #20
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Default CIS tester

I may be wrong but arent these adapters for the banjos?


https://ibb.co/c3vyC1y
https://ibb.co/tH03Cbv
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Old 12-16-2019, 04:56 PM   #21
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The banjo adapter is just a female threaded hole. You reuse the banjo bolt to attach the hose with the banjo to the adapter.



You can rent the OE Volvo gauge from me but that kit will be cheaper if it has the correct adapters.

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Old 12-17-2019, 07:10 PM   #22
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Well I ordered a pressure tester. Meanwhile going thru the Bentley manual checking all I can, I got up to the frequency valve test. It buzzes as it should.
I disconnected the Ox sensor and connected my old dwell meter. I read 67... according to Bentley should be 47-53.... so its a little high
I reconnected the Ox sensor and reads the same 67.
Then I proceeded to check the switches... thermal cutout and pressure switch grounded.... result was 38 (spec is 71-77)
Then I connected the Ox sensor and duty cycle readsame as disconnected 67
With the AC on duty cycle goes up to 76
continued the checking of the freq valve. input is there...test light glows and resistance is 2.7 ohms (in spec of 2-3 ohms)

Just to see what would happen I disconected the WUR and duty cycle went down to 10.....
Also checked the signal coming out of the Ox sensor disconnected(engine on of course) read .89-.99Volts Ox sensor Seems to be good
Also tested with another ECU, results were the same

Does this information tell you any thing? I cant make much sense of it.
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Old 12-17-2019, 07:53 PM   #23
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From reading that the systems seems to be out of adjustment. First is your dwell meter a needle or digital? If it's a needle and doesn't have a four cylinder range then you use half the 8 cylinder reading.

From what I recall you should observe the complete warmup cycle. When you start the car you should get about 30 seconds or so of 60 degree dwell, then it will drop to 50 degrees. After another 30 secs to a minute or so the lambda computer starts checking the o2 sensor for reference. It usually take a bit like ten minutes or more to get it up to full temp. It should get hot enough that you see a swing in dwell as the computer samples the sensor and makes corrections. You usually have hold the engine at a high idle to keep the sensor hot when you check dwell at idle.

If you disconnect the o2 sensor the dwell should be a default 45 degrees. with the o2 sensor connected you should see the dwell change about 3 to 4 degrees up and down as the unit corrects. If you lean out the idle mixture the dwell will go up. If you richen up the idle mixture the dwell will go down. You need a fresh oil change and clean air filter to adjust the mixture. 3mm long allen for adjustment. Also clean the screw with some carb cleaner before using the allen wrench in it.

When you ground the pressure switch it should go up to about 75 dwell which due to the design actually richens the mixture for boost.

The warmup regulator can be tested once you have the fuel test rig. But you just need to make sure it has good electrical connections right now.
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Old 12-17-2019, 10:20 PM   #24
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Dwell meter is a analog (needle) old Heathkit. Its selected at the 4 cyl scale.
Ill go over the electrical connections and grounds tomorrow.

Ive adjusted the 3mm mixture (its clean)adjustment both ways. If I go to lean the engine bogs down immediately upon acceleration. If I go leaner it starts oscilating at idle and the leaner I go it stalls.
When I turn clockwise (richer) it accelerates better but still bogs down and spits pretty crude gas )black puffs) out the exhaust.
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Old 12-18-2019, 04:19 PM   #25
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OK well the oscillating is actually the desirable effect. It's supposed to oscillate about 41-44. Personally with the alcohol in the gas I go down to about 39-40 degrees and it likes it there. But that is still within the range of the o2 sensor so it will oscillate.

Remember at idle the richer you go the lower the dwell number. The leaner you go at idle the higher the dwell. That is because you are doing a mechanical adjustment of the mixture and then the lambda system compensates. So it will add or remove fuel as needed to try to keep it around the stoich zone.

However, when the engine needs enrichment like the boost pressure switch on the firewall it grounds terminal 7 in the ecu so it will raise the dwell for more fuel under boost.
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