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Old 08-17-2010, 10:48 AM   #1
cavaliers16
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Default Keyless entry system for 740

Has anyone installed a keyless entry system from an 850 in a 740? I picked up two remotes, a central control unit, and a driver's door actuator at the junkyard for nothing and would love to get them into my 745. I have the wiring diagram for the 850's keyless system, but it looks as though it works with the central locking relay/interior lights system relay that they 740 does not have.

I don't really care if the interior lights functionality works, but having Volvo remotes would be pretty sweet.
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:57 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by cavaliers16 View Post
Has anyone installed a keyless entry system from an 850 in a 740? I picked up two remotes, a central control unit, and a driver's door actuator at the junkyard for nothing and would love to get them into my 745. I have the wiring diagram for the 850's keyless system, but it looks as though it works with the central locking relay/interior lights system relay that they 740 does not have.

I don't really care if the interior lights functionality works, but having Volvo remotes would be pretty sweet.
I will look over the wiring diagrams for both cars and see if I can help you get it working. I have experience making weird electronics projects like this work.
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:20 PM   #3
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Here is the 850's keyless wiring diagram. http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/ser...ntrySystem.pdf

I am trying to piece together the 740 wiring from VADIS. I'll have to see if the Chiltons manual actually has anything useful about the locking system.
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:14 PM   #4
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I could imagine that if you get all wiring correct, it would work without an issue. You will probably need to swap out the door actuator in the 850 with the one in the 740.
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Old 08-19-2010, 10:06 AM   #5
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I haven't forgotten about you man.... just busy... im going to study the wiring diagrams tonight... I am an automotive tech so I have access to all of the needed diagrams... Should be able to come up with a solution... I just finished installing an alarm/ remote start on my 93 945 so im pretty familiar with the door lock circuit on the older models.

Did you make any progress so far?
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Old 08-19-2010, 12:19 PM   #6
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:21 PM   #7
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So I am trying again to get this working- I picked up the central locking relay from a junked 850. I have it hooked up on a desk so I can figure out what's going on better. It looks like the 850's lock actuator uses 5 wires, whereas the one from the 740 uses just two. Is there any way to use the two wire actuator in a 5 wire setup?

VADIS has tons of info on how the central locking system works in the 850. Right now, using the bench test method, I am seeing a steady 6 volts to each wire on the 740 actuator. When I press the lock or unlock buttons on the remote, the voltage on both wires spikes up to 12ish (VADIS estimates .7 seconds, and that's probably close), yet the actuator doesn't move at all. Can I bench test the actuator to ensure it's working? How would I do that?
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:21 PM   #8
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Old 01-10-2011, 02:49 PM   #9
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Count me in as well... ford swap has functionality buuut, volvo unit has me very very interested.
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Old 01-10-2011, 02:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavaliers16 View Post
So I am trying again to get this working- I picked up the central locking relay from a junked 850. I have it hooked up on a desk so I can figure out what's going on better. It looks like the 850's lock actuator uses 5 wires, whereas the one from the 740 uses just two. Is there any way to use the two wire actuator in a 5 wire setup?

VADIS has tons of info on how the central locking system works in the 850. Right now, using the bench test method, I am seeing a steady 6 volts to each wire on the 740 actuator. When I press the lock or unlock buttons on the remote, the voltage on both wires spikes up to 12ish (VADIS estimates .7 seconds, and that's probably close), yet the actuator doesn't move at all. Can I bench test the actuator to ensure it's working? How would I do that?
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:42 PM   #11
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9v battery works just as well too
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:40 PM   #12
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Update: got it. Works perfectly. I'll post a writeup with pics tomorrow when it's light.

Thanks for the help guys. The 9v battery was the best way to try it out without having to be outside in the cold.
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:49 PM   #13
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An almost-factory system for the 740? I hope it's better than the POS Clifford one the previous owner put in my car. Every few months the actuators fall off and I can't lock or unlock the damned thing. It's fun when you're stuck inside. I got so fed up with it I had it disconnected. Now, I just forget that I still have the keyless alarm and set it off every second time I go and use the key to unlock the car.
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Old 01-11-2011, 03:45 PM   #14
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I looked into this for a 240, using 960 alarm, but its tied to the radio, thought the 850 was the same, at least post 95 are. My 91 240 uses an Omega alarm, excelent, easy to instal, works better than the Volvo OEM alarm
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Old 01-11-2011, 06:06 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by vvpete View Post
I looked into this for a 240, using 960 alarm, but its tied to the radio, thought the 850 was the same, at least post 95 are. My 91 240 uses an Omega alarm, excelent, easy to instal, works better than the Volvo OEM alarm
I used only the keyless entry system from the 850, not the alarm system, so I was able to avoid that problem.

I'll get pics up this week. Got sidetracked by the snow tomorrow morning.
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Old 01-13-2011, 07:37 PM   #16
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850 keyless entry into a 740
I spliced the keyless entry system from a 1995 850 into my 1989 745. It's fairly straightforward once you know what you're doing. The locking hardware is all factory, so you don't have to hack up your door panels with a crappy aftermarket system.

This should work with any 7/9 that already has central locking. Essentially you're installing a keyless system for the driver's door, then the 740's factory central locking takes care of the rest of the doors and the tailgate.

What you need from a donor 850:
-Central locking relay. It is almost directly in front of your left knee as you're sitting in the driver's seat, all the way against the firewall.

-Keyless entry control module/receiver with harness. It is located between the glovebox and the end of the dash on the passenger's side. Take the glovebox out to access the unit.

-Remotes. These don't have to be from the car that you take the module from, but that will make it easier.


What you need from a donor 740:
-Rear driver's side lock actuator. I used the early style "L shaped" one (pictured) instead of the door latch mounted ones from the later 740s and 940s because it is easier to work with.

-Front passenger's side lock actuator bracket. The brackets are different for the front and rear doors.

-Front passenger's side lock actuator linkage. Get both metal rods and the plastic pivot mechanism that connect the lock actuator to the lock pull at the top of the door. Take all the clips that hold the rods together as well.


Other stuff you need:
-Wire, electrical tape, blade style connectors, crimp connectors
-Zip ties

Putting it together:
Mechanical
-Remove the front door panel. Also remove the knee bolster, pedal cover, and side panel in the driver's seat area.

-Install the lock actuator. Swap the bracket from the front passenger door onto the actuator you got from the rear driver's side door. The bracket is screwed into the door with three screws (holes pre-drilled).

-Remove the door latch (two Torx bits). Also remove the small Phillips screw that is behind the latch to loosen the mechanism in the door that is attached to the door latch.
-From inside the door, disconnect the clip that connects the lock pull rod to the latch. Leave the lock pull rod resting in its hole in the latch mechanism.
-Reverse the direction of the linkage you pulled from the donor 740. Since it's going on the driver's side, unhook the rods and basically flip the assembly so that it's a mirror image of the passenger side. It should look like this (below). Compare it to the picture of the linkage at the beginning for reference.

-Push the linkage assembly up through the gap in the door. You can look through the largest hole in the door to see what you're doing. It's tricky. The top of the uppermost rod in the linkage has a hole in it that will fit on the lock pull rod. Once it's hooked on, put the clip back on (very tricky). The lock pull rod should now be secured to the locking mechanism and the linkage you just installed.
-Secure the rest of the linkage. There's one screw for the white rotating thing in the middle.

-Clip the smaller rod to the hole in the lock actuator.

-Replace the door latch and the small Phillips screw underneath it.

Electrical
The keyless entry control module/receiver has four wires coming from it.
Red: 12V at all times
Black: ground
Green/yellow: signal wire to locking relay that controls lock/unlock cycle
Yellow/violet: 12V with key in ignition

The central locking relay has a legend on it that shows what each post does.
ATR: green/yellow signal wire from control module/receiver
31: ground
M+: red/white wire from lock actuator
M-: red/blue wire from lock actuator (one of these is the lock wire, one is the unlock.)
30: 12V at all times
15: 12V with key in ignition

Run wires from the lock actuator in the door to the relay. I attached the relay to the receiver and mounted both above the brake pedal, so use enough wire to get there. Stringing the wire through the rubber plug on the side of the footwell is tricky. I pushed a small screwdriver between the rubber and the wires it protects so that there was just enough of an opening to slip the locking/unlocking wires through.


Connect the relay to the control module with the green/yellow signal wire.

Connect the constant 12V supply to both the relay and the control module. I spliced into the hot wire that goes to the headlight switch.

Connect the 12V with key in ignition. This is optional- it doesn't affect the operation of the unit if you don't connect it, but you may need it to reprogram the remotes (if the remotes didn't come from the same car as the receiver. More on that later). There are plenty of keyed 12V wires under there, so you might as well connect them.

Connect the grounds to both the relay and the control module. There is a nice ground box in the driver's footwell.


Test it out! Make sure the driver's door is closed (otherwise it can't lock). Mount the relay and control module, zip tie all the wires up so they don't rattle, and button it all back up.

I found that the remotes have a 10-15 foot range. The higher you mount the receiver the better (also away from metal), so you may get more range if you can place it higher up in the dash.

Note:
If you have to reprogram the remotes from match the control module, here is the procedure:
-Switch on the ignition to positions I or II 5 times within the space of 10 seconds, and leave the ignition on the 5th time.
-Within 30 seconds, press either the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button once on the transmitter. All the transmitters must be reprogrammed within 30 seconds.
-Switch off the ignition.
-Check that each of the transmitters functions properly.

Last edited by cavaliers16; 01-13-2011 at 08:00 PM.. Reason: Photos
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Old 01-13-2011, 07:59 PM   #17
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Sticky
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Old 01-13-2011, 08:28 PM   #18
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You win. +1 for sticky!
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Old 01-17-2011, 02:05 PM   #19
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STICKEY!
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Old 03-09-2011, 10:53 PM   #20
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Default Component Compatibility

Great write up by cavaliers. As I learned the hard way not all 850 central locking components are compatible throughout different year models. So my tip is to make sure you get everything from the same car if possible. If not here is what i know works and doesn't work.

If you get the control box with

FCC ID: CWTTFWB1G get the CWTTFWB1G key fob

or

FCC ID: CWT5654R get the CWT5653T key fob

The only relay I was able to get to work properly is this one.



Part #9148481

The following relays are NOT compatible with the above FCC IDs. One allows only the lock function the other only allows the unlock.
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Old 03-10-2011, 05:29 PM   #21
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I looked up those parts on VADIS-
9148481 is from a 96-97 with two-stage unlocking (one click opens driver's door, two opens whole car)

9128833 is from a 93-95 with single stage unlocking
9140403 supercedes 9128833 (updated part)

So it looks as though you need to match the remotes/control unit with a locking relay from a car with the same "stage" unlocking process.

werddms- how many clicks does it take to unlock your doors?
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Old 03-10-2011, 06:52 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavaliers16 View Post
I looked up those parts on VADIS-
9148481 is from a 96-97 with two-stage unlocking (one click opens driver's door, two opens whole car)

9128833 is from a 93-95 with single stage unlocking
9140403 supercedes 9128833 (updated part)

So it looks as though you need to match the remotes/control unit with a locking relay from a car with the same "stage" unlocking process.

werddms- how many clicks does it take to unlock your doors?
One Click. But my car is a 740 like yours and as long as the driver door opens the factory wiring signals the rest of the doors to do the same.

Strange thing is the I thought at least one of the remote/control units I picked up was from a pre 96 850 and only the 9148481 relay operates correctly


Drew

Last edited by werddms; 03-10-2011 at 06:58 PM..
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Old 08-29-2012, 12:54 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavaliers16 View Post

What you need from a donor 740:
-Rear driver's side lock actuator. I used the early style "L shaped" one (pictured) instead of the door latch mounted ones from the later 740s and 940s because it is easier to work with.

-Front passenger's side lock actuator bracket. The brackets are different for the front and rear doors.
-Remove the door latch (two Torx bits). Also remove the small Phillips screw that is behind the latch to loosen the mechanism in the door that is attached to the door latch.
-Push the linkage assembly up through the gap in the door. You can look through the largest hole in the door to see what you're doing. It's tricky. The top of the uppermost rod in the linkage has a hole in it that will fit on the lock pull rod. Once it's hooked on, put the clip back on (very tricky). The lock pull rod should now be secured to the locking mechanism and the linkage you just installed.
-Secure the rest of the linkage.
Got into this, and found a couple things;

You don't nee a rear actuator, the front PS one has holes on both sides, just flip it and screw it back to the bracket (I have 2 extra actuators, PM if you need one).

I didn't find a need to remove the latch, mid linkage is still tricky. i found it easier to swing the clip latch up onto the manual locking rod as the original DS one was, not swing down and clip to the relay rod like the PS donor had it.
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:17 AM   #24
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nice
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Thats why you get a mans car... A 740
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You people keep crushing them, you're going to run out eventually.
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:20 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavaliers16 View Post

The central locking relay has a legend on it that shows what each post does.
ATR: green/yellow signal wire from control module/receiver
31: ground
M+: red/white wire from lock actuator
M-: red/blue wire from lock actuator (one of these is the lock wire, one is the unlock.)
30: 12V at all times
15: 12V with key in ignition

Run wires from the lock actuator in the door to the relay. I attached the relay to the receiver and mounted both above the brake pedal, so use enough wire to get there. Stringing the wire through the rubber plug on the side of the footwell is tricky. I pushed a small screwdriver between the rubber and the wires it protects so that there was just enough of an opening to slip the locking/unlocking wires through.
As you get the PS actuator, unpin the blu/red and white/red wires from the round connector just inside the car. each pin has 2 tabs you can bend back with a small flathead or razoknife, then they slide right out of the connector, and can be inserted into another.
Pop the rubber door and frame grommets out of their spots into the door gap- they go back in easiest this way.

Now pull these wires back through the door, now you have a factory actuator to car wire.

I got some of the protective housing cover off the trunk actuator wire.
On the driver side, plug these wires into the actuator, pull them through the protective strip, pop the grommets into the door -frame gap.
Push the bullet connectors you unpinned earlier out through the door rubber, turn the rubber inside out, push the protective sheath as far in as you can, then flip the grommet back right way to...Now you can fish it through.

Fished, and getting ready to go into the cabin grommet
Next its through the big grommet. Screwdriver pushes a gap open, and shove the bullet through with a lock rod or whatever. The sheath doesn't go easy, but you can massage/rape it in there.

Push the rubber back in place, it has some flappy lips on the inside you can grab to pull it through with.
Test with 12V applied one way then the other on the two new wires. I got near instant response on all locks (door must be closed).

Last edited by 745 TurboGreasel; 08-29-2012 at 11:42 PM..
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