240 89 244 +T lh 2.4 1-4-4

Hello, all... well after a considerable drive today, I am having intermittent stalls on my 240, causing a CEL showing the code 1-4-4 on the ignition side of things. No lead signal from fuel injection. I saw that the usual culprit is the Radio Suppression Relay, which 240's don't have. the fuel injection relay is new---ish? and I have noticed it wanting to kick out while at cruise, causing my AFR's to go VERY RICH! 10.0 at cruise, not in boost. So suggestion time!

/thread? popped in a spare fuel relay, doesn't seem to have any trouble now. old relay didn't show any cause for concern, either, though.

Was having the same issue-ish. Over the years the fuel injection relay has a tendency to become less reliable. Best to keep a handful of these things in your glovebox

I would figure to see damage in the solder, or some marking on the contacts, but I saw nothing which would lend itself to believe the relay to be kaput.

fuel relay did not fix the issue. This ONLY happens after a considerable time of driving. (half hour +)

1-4-4 is a code resulting in a missing signal from your EZK box here is a link to a reference

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineOBDCodes.html#LH24FuelInjectionFault

you may want to verify the wiring that goes between the LH box and the EZK if the Fuel pump relay did not resolve your issue. If the wiring checks out between the boxes double check the power and grounds. or see if you can find another 2.4 lh box to test with

Hmm, didn't expect that... It almost stalled out on the may to work, whichdisa tten, fifteen minute drive. Was at cruise, when suddenly, it shopped igniting or injecting fuel. I heard the fuel relay click back and forth, and the motor came back before I stopped. What are the chances my spare relay was bad?

Thread revival!

So I now have a newer 954 ecu, have it tuned with tuner pro, and had no issues yesterday. Went out to start her today, turned the key and the fuel pumps didn't prime. Weird... Maybe I left the fuse out for lh yesterday. I checked, and I hadn't. Pulled it and popped it back in anyways, and everything was fine. Coming back from a 20 min. drive, building boost, and then suddenly stalled out. Noticed yet again, the fuel pumps weren't running. Pulled the fuse again, and as soon as I popped it in (the key was in pos. 2) the fuel pumps came on. What the hell is happening? I avoided this problem for a while, running my fuel relay open without it's cover so it wouldn't overheat, but I didn't like it being open so I recently closed it back up, and put it back in it's stock position, running several times without issue.

Bumping this up, I'd like some thoughts. The fuel relay doesn't look like it's in bad shape. I don't see any cracks in the solder or anything if it was the relay, why does pulling my fuse miraculously cure the problem for some time?

volvoboy90 said:

Bumping this up, I'd like some thoughts. The fuel relay doesn't look like it's in bad shape. I don't see any cracks in the solder or anything if it was the relay, why does pulling my fuse miraculously cure the problem for some time?

Click to expand...

The reason the fuel injection relay (or radio suppression relay in a 7/9) gets blamed for the load signal code from the ignition computer is the power source is momentarily interrupted to the fuel computer when the system portion of the relay drops out. This can happen for various reasons: folks like to replace parts, so the part responsible would be the relay itself, and for early production relays, the soldering holding those relay frames to the circuit boards was prone to cracks. Now that all those relays have been replaced with a new design, the more common reason is external to the relay box, in the wiring between battery and relay -- mostly at the fuse socket itself.

Long story short: Intermittent connection along the red wire under the hood. Miracle occurs when you reseat the fuse, which also clears the fault memory.

So you think it is somewhere in the power for the ecu, it is grounding out and losing connection? Any specific trouble areas I should look?

Bump-age. This is seeming like a sparsely covered topic. My grounds on the intake are tight, and clean, the wires for the fuse are tightly wound in many layers of Electrical Tape. Why would pulling the fuse make such a difference between it'll run, and it won't even try?

Going back to the fuse holder, Bust out a multimeter and check continuity verify that you are not seeing ridiculous resistance in the power wire at most you should zero resistance. You may also want to double check the fuse holder and verify that the contacts are clean and that there is no corrosion on the crimped area that could possibly be going back up into the wire. for cleaning your connections get a fiber glass pen works wonders on cleaning slightly corroded contacts with out eating away at the material.

Found it! ... I believe The terminal where the FI connects to the battery was frayed and heavily corroded. 2 minute cut, strip, and crimp, and she's running like a champ. Went on a good long ride, fiddled with the wire, and still nice and smooth. I'll post back if I find anything else. Thanks, everybody!