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Old 03-25-2019, 08:43 PM   #1
sksmith
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Default D-Jet AAV Disassembly

Question about the AAV for my 73 with D-Jetronic.
Has anyone disassembled one, mine is stuck shut.
I've done some googling, and it seems that the Benz & Jag ones are able to be pressed apart so that the thermosatic bulb can be replaced and the slide piston can be cleaned/lubed.
Has anyone successfully do this with a Volvo AAV?
Thanks,
Steve
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Old 03-25-2019, 09:18 PM   #2
shaned
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i sprayed my back into operation with brakeklean and soaking
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Old 03-26-2019, 10:44 PM   #3
c1800
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Go to
volvoforums.org.uk

Register and search for

EFI intake plumbing

and you’ll find a long thread on AAV’s. it’s an excellent site with lots of info on classic Volvo’s


Let us know How you make out.
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Old 03-27-2019, 07:09 AM   #4
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I'll give that forum a shot.
thanks,
Steve
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Old 03-29-2019, 12:18 AM   #5
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My brother, hiperfauto, rebuilt and tested his 1st D-jet AAV a few days ago and it appeared to work.

We're probably going to install on his 142E or on a customers 1800ES.
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Old 03-29-2019, 07:56 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planetman View Post
My brother, hiperfauto, rebuilt and tested his 1st D-jet AAV a few days ago and it appeared to work.

We're probably going to install on his 142E or on a customers 1800ES.
Details!!!!!
I have mine soaking in Kroil at the moment. Still need to take the head & engine to my local machine shop, but getting all the components ready.
If he took any pics, please share.
Thanks,
Steve
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Old 03-29-2019, 12:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sksmith View Post
Details!!!!!
I have mine soaking in Kroil at the moment. Still need to take the head & engine to my local machine shop, but getting all the components ready.
If he took any pics, please share.
Thanks,
Steve
Pictures are in the volvoforums.org.uk thread.
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Old 03-29-2019, 02:38 PM   #8
sksmith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c1800 View Post
Pictures are in the volvoforums.org.uk thread.
Aah!!!
Should've paid attention to your handle (c1800)..... I was searching the 140/164 folder & coming up with nothing but heater valve questions. Helps when I go, "what about the 1800 folder"... Duh!
Ok, I found your photos. I didn't realize the piece on the top, where the top hose goes in, is just pressed in. It looked to be machined or forged.
I will give this method a shot later tonight & post back on whether or not I have any luck.
Thanks!
Steve
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Old 03-29-2019, 06:38 PM   #9
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Got it apart.
21mm deep socket & a dead-blow hammer. Placed it in the vice, like your photos show, took a few minutes to start, but it was apart in less than 10 minutes total. Now it's soaking in Kroil again. I'll go back out after dinner & see clean it up / reassemble it.
Some photos to follow.
Thanks c1800!
Steve
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Old 03-29-2019, 08:07 PM   #10
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Pics:





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Old 03-29-2019, 10:26 PM   #11
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Haha, I assumed 1800 when I read your first post!

Glad you found it, hope it works. Let us know.
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Old 03-30-2019, 12:26 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sksmith View Post
Details!!!!!
I have mine soaking in Kroil at the moment. Still need to take the head & engine to my local machine shop, but getting all the components ready.
If he took any pics, please share.
Thanks,
Steve
The AAV I repaired wasn't stuck, the wax thermostat element was bad. Having never taken one apart before I followed the instructions provided by AAVpart.com ... sort of. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures.



I placed the valve in a vice with brass jaws to protect the part, clamped a pair of vice grips on the bulb as recommended in the instructions (it's getting replaced anyway), heated the body of the valve and tapped on the vice grips until the assembly came out.

Instead of grinding the lip off the element housing as suggested I clamped the bulb in the vice and used a round bar to tap the crimped lip outward so the washer will come out. The housing is made from very soft aluminum and it doesn't take much effort.

After thoroughly cleaning the element housing I installed the new element in a bead of Permatex red high temp silicone followed by another small bead into which I laid the largest o-ring that would fit before replacing the washer, clamping the whole thing together with some sockets and a C-clamp and tapping the lip back over the washer. Without something like an o-ring or gasket to fill the space between the element and washer, the element is loose in the housing. The instructions tell you to just fill the cavity with silicone and clamp the washer in place until the silicone sets.

Of course I cleaned and inspected the plunger and AAV housing bore and lubricated them while it was apart.

24 hours later the valve can be re-assembled using the Loctite specified. Instead of vise grips and a thin wrench, I used some sockets and the vice to squeeze the assembly back together and left it overnight to fully cure.

I did not however use the AAVpart.com element. I had spoken with another forum member who installed one and had issues with a high idle. A customer of mine had a similar experience and managed to locate a replacement element that's much cheaper and that works correctly. It even has the same -30° stamped into the bulb.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ma...hermostat,2200

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Old 03-30-2019, 04:59 AM   #13
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Thanks Ian.
I found a new Mahle bulb at AutohausAZ.com for slightly over $30.
(Didn't think to check rockauto.com!)
Steve

Last edited by sksmith; 03-30-2019 at 11:00 AM..
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