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1991 745 soft brake pedal. That "sinking" feeling...

ZVOLV said:
I went to the junkyard today and got a used ATE master cylinder and reservoir assembly from a 1991 745 Turbo. I also scored 4 Hydras with some good tires on them. They boned me for $60 in warranty fees that I didn't ask for. They just sneak the fees into the pricing now.
They don't ask you, or tell you about warranty pricing. I should have known better, but FU LKQ for your hidden fees.

I am looking into the "Black Label" mitivac power bleeder with alumimun cap for $100. Does Audi/Porsche/BMW/"Euro" use the same brake reservoir cap as our Bricks?
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Yes, that size brake reservoir cap is used by a whole lot of Euro car makers. I bought the plastic cap version and getting the next one up with the metal cap is a better unit.
 
SUCCESS! I installed a junkyard master cylinder and reservoir. I bench bled it using brake lines I bought at the local parts store. I installed one line in each port and bent each one back into the master cylinder. I was able to bleed the air out in only about 3 pumps. Left the lines installed and then mouted the reservoir to the booster, attached the car brake lines, and performed a quick vacuum bleed from each corner.

I still couldn't get any fluid to come out of the right front brake caliper bleeder. Vacuum, or even engine running and pressing the brake pedal (wouldn't sink). IDK whats going on, but I don't think there was any air in that corner to worry about. Oh, and the leak...the brake line fittings were loose at the master cylinder. I think that was my leak and also a source of air in the system.

The pedal is higher and firmer than ever before! The test drive around the block a few times went great.MasterCylinderBenchBleed.jpg
 
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I already did that. I even tried pressing the brake pedal with the bleeder screw removed and no fluid would come out. The pedal would not sink.

IDK why fluid won't come out of the front right caliper bleeder.
 
And I just did a master on my wagon. System ran dry while sitting with a rear caliper off, never could get a pedal back. Grabbed one from IPD, lesser of the evils, seems to be good, got rid of the 2-step feeling the old one had from day 1. Still not quite where it should be but some of that could be the rear pads still settling into place, being new.
 
ZVOLV said:
I went to the junkyard today and got a used ATE master cylinder and reservoir assembly from a 1991 745 Turbo. I also scored 4 Hydras with some good tires on them. They boned me for $60 in warranty fees that I didn't ask for. They just sneak the fees into the pricing now.
They don't ask you, or tell you about warranty pricing. I should have known better, but FU LKQ for your hidden fees.

I am looking into the "Black Label" mitivac power bleeder with alumimun cap for $100. Does Audi/Porsche/BMW/"Euro" use the same brake reservoir cap as our Bricks?

www.ebay.com

Motive BLACK LABEL Brake Power Bleeder Audi BMW Porsche VW European Adapter 0109 | eBay

Part #0109. BMW, Porsche, Saab, Volvo, VW (except air cooled) have used this type of cap since the late 1950s. Features Custom-machined aluminum cap and deluxe swivel fitting. Includes an extra length of high grade poly urethane tubing that won't cloud or crack with exposure to brake fluid.
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
You have to tell them "no warranty" when purchasing or like you said they automatically charge you for it.
 
Tonyte619 said:
You have to tell them "no warranty" when purchasing or like you said they automatically charge you for it.
Click to expand...
Brown Field PYP---out of business
Chula Vista West PYP--- out of business

I guess they need to "include" hidden fees now without asking since business doesn't seem to be going well. Their website says they include fees for "convenience". I sent an email in thru their website making a complaint and they didn't even bother to respond.
 
ZVOLV said:
I already did that. I even tried pressing the brake pedal with the bleeder screw removed and no fluid would come out. The pedal would not sink.

IDK why fluid won't come out of the front right caliper bleeder.
Click to expand...
I had this happen on a 240, where the pass side caliper would not bleed even after removing the bleeder nipple. I tried wire, and a small cable but the bleeder route was plugged. I ended up replacing that caliper, with a used unit, then rebuilding both fronts. No problems after that, just left car out of action until everything was back together.
 
Master tech, huh?

Start with the caliper and work backwards:

1) Crack the soft line that attaches to the caliper loose and try pushing the brake. If it sinks, caliper is blocked. If no fluif, goto2:

2) Crack the hardline loose where it attaches to rhe soft line on the chassis rail. If pedal sinks/fluid leaks, you have collapsed flexible line, common issue. If not, goto3:

3) On the ABS distribution block, undo fitting labelled "VR" (Vorne Rechts, front right) and repeat test. If pedal is still firm, you have stuck/gunked valve in the ABS unit. I have made them come back online with varying sucess, recommand getting a used unit.
 
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