V8BRICK
Member
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2002
- Location
- Blacksburg, VA
Pictures are all located here. Is it possible to embed from google photos these days?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LCVEDL9numUmGXqs6
What's up turbobricks!? Long time no post. After rarely driving this car for YEARS, I'm putting it up for sale, it's a sad day, but time to let her go.
Stock roller 302 block 1991
Stock factory forged pistons (rehoned with new rings) roughly 9.3:1 if I remember right
Ebay ARP knockoff rod bolts
F303 cam
GT40 iron heads from a 1st gen Lightning ported and polished with 1.94 1.60 stainless valves dual valve springs
Harland Sharpe billet 1.6 roller rockers
Cast aluminum valve covers
GT40 style truck lower and upper intake
Larger throttle body, think it’s 70 or 75mm
Dual pass radiator
Remote oil filter relocated to driver side fender-well that could use a permanent mount of some sort
Crane HI6 ignition
Optical pickup on stock distributor
LX91 Crane coil
Ebay stainless headers flipped, v-band crossover connection
Master Power T70 (true 70mm) turbo .81 A/R exhaust housing
External stone mountain wastegate that is rerouted BACK into the 3” downpipe
12x24x4 intercooler core (Griffin brand if I remember right)
3” stainless downpipe v-band
3” full exhaust 3.5” stainless tip
Megasquirt’n’spark original old board with usb board added
Honda injector resistors
75lb/hr holley injectors low impedance
Aftermarket billet fuel rails
Walbro 255hp in tank pump
Massive external diesel fuel filter setup where old pump/filter basket is located
TechEdge wideband O2 sensor display
Greddy profec B boost controller
VDO gauges, boost, oil pressure, water temp
NO TACHOMETER - originall is there if you want to hack it - or swap in a cheapy in that hole
Vintage 140 series era shift knob
Battery relocated to the passenger rear butt cheek, no it is not bolted down
T5 transmission (world class?) a little whiney but shifts fine, leaks a little fluid out of the speedo hole/seal
B&M shifter
6 puck sprung clutch and new flywheel (unsure of clutch brand)
1 piece driveshaft (has a slight vibration above 65mph)
IPD 25mm sway bars front & rear V6 dip front bar
Solid adjustable swaybar endlinks
IPD wagon lowering springs
Bilstein HD shocks
Drag brand (cheap) wheels, 17x7 with some CHEAP tires but extremely low miles (less than 100)
Flat hood is off a gt 242, can’t remember the year
New windshield and trim, no chromies
If you check the build thread history on this and want to scroll through all the pages, cool: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=100617&highlight=v8brick
If not, here’s the cliff’s notes. Old body was a hacked up ‘84 wagon, ghetto widebody fitment. Engine (same engine as above) had a different single plenum intake with Q45 throttle body, FULL 4” exhaust with hacked firewall to fit it.
What’s different about this setup? The body is MUCH nicer, unmolested, no butt cheek or ? panel rust. The only spot that has a hole is the passenger rear floor pan had rusted partially at some point, been painted/coated in something before I got it. The intention with this iteration was to keep power steering and make it a mild setup. The air conditioning lines are hooked up, condenser is there in front of the radiator with a little electric fan waiting to be wired up, compressor is a mustang-correct piece. I have NOT tested the compressor, vacuumed down the system, or charged it. I did replace the line seals on all the rubber lines when I installed them.
This car is running the same tune it had when it was in the OLD body which had a number of different intake/exhaust fuel line diameter differences. It runs good around town and ok on the highway but does need to be tweaked to get it in the sweet spot. Why didn’t I do it? The plan was to update to a newer megasquirt with low impedance injector drivers that could CONTROL the 75lb injectors better down low so it would cruise better while just barely having the throttle cracked.
The wiring under the passenger dash is ugly and a mess, but functional. No need to let me know that I should have made it cleaner. I know. At the time I was probably getting it ready for a local car show and just wanted it running again. The connection at the firewall is a Russian din connector of some sort that I soldered so it is easy to completely disconnect the harness in the engine bay. The boost controller wiring also goes through this one connection. The ignition and coil are also under the passenger dash, coil has a firewall pass through.
At one point in time I had sucked a turn signal partially into the turbo which nicked a few impeller blades. I sanded/contoured these with a dremel, yes a dremel. Never had any other issues and on that setup with the 4” exhaust and single plenum intake it dynoed 508whp.
Interior and seats on this car really are in great shape. The best shape 240 interior I have ever owned. Car is smooth and not squeaky or clunky. Upper strut mounts on the front look fugly but are holding on. I painted the front ⅓ of this car in my driveway, outside, on a nice sunny day. It’s not perfect, has some imperfections and the roof has a rough overspray line that could easily be wet-sanded/buffed out. From about 4 feet away, you wouldn’t notice any of these issues.
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