1994 940 AW Shifter Assembly

[Cheeto230ft]

Hello,
I’m looking for some guidance on my shifter. I’ve had my 1994 Volvo 940 turbo wagon for about 7 months now. It has Aisin Warners AW71 automatic 4-speed with overdrive. Slowly but surely, I’ve been working on it, mostly maintenance/ repair and some performance.
A month or so ago, I noticed that my shifter knob was looking a little worse for wear. The vinyl was in pieces and had many times been glued back on. After one of said pieces fell off in my hands, I figured it was time for a new shifter knob. It was around Christmas that I bought the (on sale) $136 round shifter knob from IPD. I watched a quick, helpful video explaining that the knob just pulls off. Unfortunately, I have the overdrive button. At the time (I’ve since bought a little Weller soldering station and some Kester 60/40 rosin core), solder was something I had never touched so I started taking everything else apart to slacken those two wires from the other side, with very little idea as to what I was doing (If you’re reading this and trying to figure out how to pull out those wires, trust me you’re money and time ahead to buy a soldering setup, learn how to solder, and desolder those prongs).
I’ve now had the shifter assembly completely apart at least 6 times. After getting it back together and thinking I was finished, I found out that the plastic mechanism in my shifter that connects to the cable end from the ignition had broken. This was completely my fault; I had the pivot pin out of the shifter before I started yanking on it to pull the knob off. I couldn’t find a replacement online. In turn I bought a 1997 960 as a parts car (fun fact: that car has a seemingly identical shifter assembly to mine!). I was able to steal the part I needed and we were mechanically sound. One thing to keep in mind is that my shift blind broke in the process. I should have a new one on the way soon, but I made the assumption that it only served to tell me what gear I’m in and thus, I could reassemble without it.

Problem n. 1) Unfortunately, we were not electrically sound. I went to turn the key and got no response. All my dash lights are strong, But no crank, click, or anything when I try to start it. After some research, I found that the park-neutral safety switch was most likely the culprit. I located the multiplugs for the whole shift assembly by peeling back the carpet on the passenger side, and it was hidden under some cardboard. I found an 8-prong and a 4-prong connector. The only wires I recognized in the 4-prong were that of the shift light. I found a thread that basically said 2 of the wires would have continuity through the park-neutral safety switch only when in park or neutral, the pink and blue wires. I tested: no continuity. Then I decided to slice a jumper wire temporarily between the pink and blue wires on the shifter side of the 8-prong multiplug. I tried to start it again: no response. Where do I go from here?

Problem no. 2) When slackening the antitheft cable from the ignition (or whatever it’s for) I accidentally created a bend in the end of the cable with my needle-nose pliers. Now I need to push in that mechanism with my finger to get it to work. I’ve heard it’s a whole can of worms that I really hope I didn’t just open.

This is my first post. I’ve struggled through for years hoping that other people have had similar experiences and that I could just go off of those. Electrical work is my nemesis, and any help would be very very much appreciated. Thank you all.

 

[DET17]

I think the disassembling shifter is endemic of the late 9 series cars (my old 92 had a very robust shifter, so issues).

As an option, I have a complete 94 shifter from a 126K mile donor. Not perfect, but probably less worn than yours. If you'd be interested, shoot me a PM.

 

[Cheeto230ft]

Hey all,
Wanted to update this thread with some documentation. I’m by no means a professional. I’ve worked on my own cars for a little over 2 years, and I don’t have much experience beyond that.
I completely rebuilt my shifter assembly 7-12 times, so maybe I can help someone else who is doing the same or troubleshooting.

I went over my situation fairly thoroughly in the first post. Again, not a professional, I just couldn’t find much online before I started taking mine apart. The overdrive button absolutely did not help me out. Hopefully this helps someone.
One last thing before I start a step-by-step for taking the shifter apart and putting it back together. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE UNLESS YOU ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO. I’m not a pro. With that said, here we go.

1. Remove the surrounding trim. There’s more resources for this part elsewhere. You’re going to need a T25 bit and preferably a 1/4” swivel wrench to remove that pesky cross-brace above the shifter.
2. Pull out the overdrive switch as far as you can with Volvos bone tool, then desolder the two tabs. Watch for splatter. Remove the switch.
3. At this point, the shift knob should be safe to pull. Robert DIY offers a great video for this part if you’re a visual learner. Give it a tug straight up, watch your face. It should be stuck like it’s been fit like that for 30 years.
4. The shifter cover should be held on by 4 ‘clips’ total. Push the bottom of the plate forward until it can rise upwards, then do so.
5. At this point, we can do some trouble-shooting. Most/all of these scenarios I went through, so I’m just speaking from my own experiences, and not much else.
a. Look for any broken plastic- all plastic in the assembly serves a vital role. Watch for jagged edges and such.
b. If your car is getting stuck in reverse- there is a nub on the shift lever that helps guide what I’m calling the keyed shiftlock inner-shifter mechanism. For short, let’s just call it the shiftlocker. When that nub breaks, the shiftlocker gets all discombobulated and you have to maneuver it with your finger from the top side.
c. If your shift indicator doesn’t move- make sure that the control shift blind is all in one piece. Also make sure that the little blue/white plastic piece that’s visible through the shifter cover is still there. And make sure that you still have the little plastic tab sticking out of the shifter lever that connects to the bottom of the shift blind and moves it.
6. If you wish to keep disassembling, shift the transmission into P, lift up the car, use some solid jackstands and look for the shift linkage. The joint you want to dismantle is near the u-joint behind the transmission. Mark the nuts position, then dismantle. It takes a 13mm and 15mm wrench. Be sure to undo the electrical connection from the shifter bucket while you are down there.
7. Take out the 4 10mm bolts holding in the shifter assembly.
8. Undo the cable that connects to our shiftlocker. Pull the clip straight upward, turn the key to position II, then pull the cable towards the back of the vehicle then upwards using a pair of needlenose pliers. I prefer long reach 90* needlenose pliers for this task.
9. You can work on the shifter in your car, but I highly recommend taking it out and putting it on a work bench. There are a few methods of separating the wires from the assembly. You can remove the speed nuts that retain each individual electrical component to pull the shifter. Another way is to locate the multiplugs. Peel back the carpet on the passenger side of the tunnel until you reach about the seat. Hidden under a cardboard flap is the multiplugs. Further towards the back off the vehicle, there is a T25 that retains the black plastic piece that the wires are routed under. Undo that. This was one of the more painful parts of removal. I was able to squeeze the multiplugs underneath that piece. It was a bear. I’m almost positive that there was some better way that I’m not aware of.
10. Your shifter should be out of the car now. Push in the grommet around the lower single prong connectors wire.
11. Use a flathead to undo the circlip that retains the connector arm.
12. Pull the connector arm. Make sure you retained the internal o-ring.
13. Hammer the pin through until it pushes out the grommet on the other side. When it got too deep, I used a crapped out 1/4” malco impact extension.
14. Pull the now-exposed grommet.
15. Drop the bucket.
16. Pull the speed nuts from the electrical accessories if you haven’t already. I used a narrow flathead and a pick.
17. Pull the e-clips then pins from both the shiftlock override spring and the shiftlocker.
18. Shift into drive, hold the button at half-rise and beat out the pin of the shift lever with a hammer. Switch to something narrow to hit with when necessary. All the shift levers internals should pop out, a spring and a rod.
19. Pull everything that you just disassembled. Be careful with the parts. Congrats, yours is now as disassembled as mine was.

Reassembly: Opposite of disassembly.
Shiftlocker goes in before the shift lever. Make sure that the PNP switch catches the end of the shift levers pin.

Agin, not a pro, just hope this helps someone. If you have anything to add or change, please comment.

Huge thank you to 2manyturbos for your help!

I would post pictures but I currently do not know how. Also, when do I get to change my status? As epic as “new member” sounds, I don’t think it carries the shock n awe factor I strive for, you know?
Anyways, thanks all!

 

[MarkWilson2]

Hello,
I’m looking for some guidance on my shifter. I’ve had my 1994 Volvo 940 turbo wagon for about 7 months now. It has Aisin Warners AW71 automatic 4-speed with overdrive. Slowly but surely, I’ve been working on it, mostly maintenance/ repair and some performance.
A month or so ago, I noticed that my shifter knob was looking a little worse for wear. The vinyl was in pieces and had many times been glued back on. After one of said pieces fell off in my hands, I figured it was time for a new shifter knob. It was around Christmas that I bought the (on sale) $136 round shifter knob from IPD. I watched a quick, helpful video explaining that the knob just pulls off. Unfortunately, I have the overdrive button. At the time (I’ve since bought a little Weller soldering station and some Kester 60/40 rosin core), solder was something I had never touched so I started taking everything else apart to slacken those two wires from the other side, with very little idea as to what I was doing (If you’re reading this and trying to figure out how to pull out those wires, trust me you’re money and time ahead to buy a soldering setup, learn how to solder, and desolder those prongs).
I’ve now had the shifter assembly completely apart at least 6 times. After getting it back together and thinking I was finished, I found out that the plastic mechanism in my shifter that connects to the cable end from the ignition had broken. This was completely my fault; I had the pivot pin out of the shifter before I started yanking on it to pull the knob off. I couldn’t find a replacement online. In turn I bought a 1997 960 as a parts car (fun fact: that car has a seemingly identical shifter assembly to mine!). I was able to steal the part I needed and we were mechanically sound. One thing to keep in mind is that my shift blind broke in the process. I should have a new one on the way soon, but I made the assumption that it only served to tell me what gear I’m in and thus, I could reassemble without it.

Problem n. 1) Unfortunately, we were not electrically sound. I went to turn the key and got no response. All my dash lights are strong, But no crank, click, or anything when I try to start it. After some research, I found that the park-neutral safety switch was most likely the culprit. I located the multiplugs for the whole shift assembly by peeling back the carpet on the passenger side, and it was hidden under some cardboard. I found an 8-prong and a 4-prong connector. The only wires I recognized in the 4-prong were that of the shift light. I found a thread that basically said 2 of the wires would have continuity through the park-neutral safety switch only when in park or neutral, the pink and blue wires. I tested: no continuity. Then I decided to slice a jumper wire temporarily between the pink and blue wires on the shifter side of the 8-prong multiplug. I tried to start it again: no response. Where do I go from here?

Problem no. 2) When slackening the antitheft cable from the ignition (or whatever it’s for) I accidentally created a bend in the end of the cable with my needle-nose pliers. Now I need to push in that mechanism with my finger to get it to work. I’ve heard it’s a whole can of worms that I really hope I didn’t just open.

This is my first post. I’ve struggled through for years hoping that other people have had similar experiences and that I could just go off of those. Electrical work is my nemesis, and any help would be very very much appreciated. Thank you all.

Hello, I have a Volvo 940 1994 wagon.
Could you please tell me where the Neutral Safety Switch is located?
Thank you.

 

[Cheeto230ft]

Of course! The PNP switch is on the left hand side of your shifter, but still inside the shifter bucket. The shift indicator slides on top of it. You can see the glass top of the PNP switch upon removal of the shifter cover (the plate that reads PRND21).