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'93 940 lh2.4 b230ft swap into '90 lh2.2 245

ThaSnyGuy

Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2023
What's the best way to do this swap? Swap engine harness? Convert b230ft to lh2.2 and source lh2.2 turbo ECU and ezk? Or will a standalone ECU make the project easier?
 
The easiest way is to go lh 2.4. Get the computers from donor car and swap everything over including the transmission. You can always switch to standalone later on.
 
I have a m47 I could swap with it, I have a m46 too but I assume I'll need the shifter linkage from the m47 to make it fit the 240 shifter hole location. Anyway I read that in '93 they made major changes to the harness. Would I still be able to just swap the engine harness and leave the original body harness alone?
 
I have a m47 I could swap with it, I have a m46 too but I assume I'll need the shifter linkage from the m47 to make it fit the 240 shifter hole location. Anyway I read that in '93 they made major changes to the harness. Would I still be able to just swap the engine harness and leave the original body harness alone?
Get a harness from a 2.4 240. The harness in the 700/900's are mixed with body harness, you will spend hours cleaning it up. I've done it, then halfway though said screw it, and went to the junkyard. Are you sure your 90 has 2.2? 89 and after should have 2.4
 
I think your 240 has 2.4 or is not a 1990. What is the part number on your MAF?

A little bit of modification is needed to the 240 harness for it to work with a +T since the MAF wiring is on the other side of the car. If you run the wiring all the way back to the firewall and then route the wires down the passenger's side of the car they are actually about the right length.

You'll just need to swap computers and injectors after that. Or whatever else you decide to do.
 
Get a harness from a 2.4 240. The harness in the 700/900's are mixed with body harness, you will spend hours cleaning it up. I've done it, then halfway though said screw it, and went to the junkyard. Are you sure your 90 has 2.2? 89 and after should have 2.4
I could be wrong I just saw the distributor wasn't mounted to the cam and assumed it was lh2.2
 
I'll confirm the maf part number and report back when I get the chance. I'll be working 12 hour shifts for the next few days so once I get the time I'll do some more digging.
 
Based on what you're telling me and more internet research I agree that it is lh2.4. I think I'll manual swap at the same time as the b230ft swap.
 
Based on what you're telling me and more internet research I agree that it is lh2.4. I think I'll manual swap at the same time as the b230ft swap.
What are your power goals and how nice do you plan on being to the trans? Both the m46 and m47 aren't good for high horsepower, with the m47 being a bit weaker than the m46. If you want more than 250hp then you will want something else in the long run
 
What are your power goals and how nice do you plan on being to the trans? Both the m46 and m47 aren't good for high horsepower, with the m47 being a bit weaker than the m46. If you want more than 250hp then you will want something else in the long run
I'm not looking for crazy power. I'm going to be real gentle on the trans as well. Basically I'm just looking to build a fun wagon that I can daily drive.
 
Will the cam mounted distributor be an issue in the 240? As far as fitment against the firewall?
 
- reuse the '90 240 LH2.4 harness and the '90 240 block mount disti.
- you'll need to extend the MAF wires to reach the other side of the engine compartment
- you'll also need high-impedance turbo injectors from a different engine, or you can use the low-impedance turbo injectors from the 940, but you'll need to splice in the resistor pack from the 940 too.
- you may need to swap the aux shaft from the old motor to the new motor so that it has a distributor drive gear. look down the block disti hole to see if there's a gear there already.
- if your 240 is currently an automatic, you'll need a LH2.4 flywheel (with 60-2 CPS holes) when swapping to manual
- you'll need a LH2.4 turbo EZK and ECU
 
The 93 B230 FT will definitely not have a distributor drive gear on the auxiliary shaft. Just use the auxiliary shaft out of the 240 engine coming out of the car.
 
- reuse the '90 240 LH2.4 harness and the '90 240 block mount disti.
- you'll need to extend the MAF wires to reach the other side of the engine compartment
- you'll also need high-impedance turbo injectors from a different engine, or you can use the low-impedance turbo injectors from the 940, but you'll need to splice in the resistor pack from the 940 too.
- you may need to swap the aux shaft from the old motor to the new motor so that it has a distributor drive gear. look down the block disti hole to see if there's a gear there already.
- if your 240 is currently an automatic, you'll need a LH2.4 flywheel (with 60-2 CPS holes) when swapping to manual
- you'll need a LH2.4 turbo EZK and ECU
10-4 I've got everything including the lh2.4 flywheel. The only thing I don't have is the driveshaft for a m46 equipped 240 wagon but I feel like that will be a easy fix with the help of the driveshaft shop. How in depth is the auxiliary shaft swap? I planned on doing all the shaft seals and gaskets on the engine once it's out already. I assume when I have the front and rear main housings off and the pan off I could figure it out right?
 
10-4 I've got everything including the lh2.4 flywheel. The only thing I don't have is the driveshaft for a m46 equipped 240 wagon but I feel like that will be a easy fix with the help of the driveshaft shop. How in depth is the auxiliary shaft swap? I planned on doing all the shaft seals and gaskets on the engine once it's out already. I assume when I have the front and rear main housings off and the pan off I could figure it out right?
It's simple. Remove the breather box and use a hooked tool to pull the oil pump drive shaft up so the aux shaft can pull out of the block past it. Do the same process to install the other aux shaft. Installing a long bolt into the end of the aux shaft helps the removal process. It gives you something to hold on to so you can carefully guide the shaft out through the bearings/bushings.
 
It's simple. Remove the breather box and use a hooked tool to pull the oil pump drive shaft up so the aux shaft can pull out of the block past it. Do the same process to install the other aux shaft. Installing a long bolt into the end of the aux shaft helps the removal process. It gives you something to hold on to so you can carefully guide the shaft out through the bearings/bushings.
Oh hell yeah I believe I can handle that.
 
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