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B230 n/a mild performance mods

Let's Stay on topic haha. This is turning into an awesome thread. Lots of good info being compiled into one read.
 
culberro said:
2.0 pinto belt for square tooth. Kyle found a Mitsubishi timing belt that's 1-tooth shorter for the round tooth setup. I'll see if I can get the part #.
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Woops, mitsubishi/dodge mighty-max timing belt for a 1.8l.
Contitech TB089, Gates T089, etc.
 
Edited*

Anyway, back to the topic at hand... are there any easier ways to check the cams without complete removal?
 
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sspony said:
Yea in rally cross talk you both get an "off course"... 10 second penalty!!!

Anyway, back to the topic at hand... are there any easier ways to check the cams without complete removal?
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If the head has the knockout plug or distributor in the back you might be able to remove the plug/dist and get a cell phone camera pic of it. Or it's only the valve cover, timing belt cover, cut the timing belt, and pull the cam, just loosen all the nuts evenly
 
I cleaned out the arguments about knuckles and dowels and other NON TIMING BELT RELATED nonsense.
*edit: and gear and cam and flywheel and such (just read the rest of the thread)
 
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sspony said:
Edited*

Anyway, back to the topic at hand... are there any easier ways to check the cams without complete removal?
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Measure the cam lobes to get lift with a set of calipers (pretty simple) and compare to the list of known stock lift values (found on this site).
Or use a small mirror to peek at the back of the cam, and you might be able to tell. It's been a while since if done anything with a head mounted dizzy.
 
sspony said:
It gets stuck in the void between 1st and 2nd. 1st would spike the rpms way too high but in 2nd it's bogging slightly. Maybe a rear gear change would fix this but I feel like it needs more torque at the lower rpms. I guess that's what I meant, increasing power at the lower rpm range.
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I agree with most of what has been said.
Did you say yet what the current gear ratio is? Lower (higher number) ratio will put you in a better 2nd gear range, the opposite will put you in (possibly) better 1st rpm range. Lower is probably the way to go in general, but a ratio is a ratio, no matter how you get there. Get some sort of diff, locked is fine for dirt.
More cam. A or B.
Head work if possible.
Lighter flywheel is always good in dirt. The dog dish is a chunk.

Get the suspension right, and great tires.

Work on the driver.
 
sspony said:
John you were right, I called the machine shop today and said around .050 and they said $70.
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That's not bad...Truth is the bulk of the time they have to spend is in setting the head in and levelling it perfectly..Then you pull the trigger and after first run you can walk away and do other things... But while its in, don't weenie out and say 040...
Your pistons have dishes and they're maybe 6-8cc so it'll want a bit more off than if you had flat tops in there..

Hey one thing to think of is the dowels...they should stay in the block...but it MIGHT not..
I wonder if they ever come out and stay with the head...
Naw its probably only there iron Fords i screw with..
 
Haven't been able to determine the gear ratio yet. Both tags are gone. Planning to drain the rear dif, remove the cover and count some teeth in the next few days.

So far my spare parts motors have only had T or M cams. I still have a b18 out of a 122 and a b20 out of a boat I need to check. Could either of those have a cam worth using?

When you say lighter flywheel do you mean to convert to flat or to cut the dog dish down a bit?

Working on suspension this week, both front struts were blown and the strut rod bushings are junk. Also didn't have a rear sway, so I pulled one off a 740 sedan to use for now.
As for the locker I was looking into a 1990 760 turbo wagon with auto trans as a parts car. Would that have a locker? Waiting for the guy to clean the crud and check for a tag right now.

I agree john, mine as well do it once. Are the heads the same between the b230 and the b230ft? I have a spare turbo motor that spun a bearing but the head appears to be ok. I could have that machine and not risk having the car apart and missing a race.
 
sspony said:
So far my spare parts motors have only had T or M cams. I still have a b18 out of a 122 and a b20 out of a boat I need to check. Could either of those have a cam worth using?
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The b18 and b20 are pushrod motors, and the cams will not work in a b230... if that's what you're asking.

When you say lighter flywheel do you mean to convert to flat or to cut the dog dish down a bit?
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It's not really worth the time and money to lighten a dog-dish FW, and most don't do it properly.. ask Simon what happens when a dog dish fails :omg:
STS Machining and JVL both offer lighter FWs. Johns doesn't work with a stock clutch disk.


I agree john, mine as well do it once. Are the heads the same between the b230 and the b230ft? I have a spare turbo motor that spun a bearing but the head appears to be ok. I could have that machine and not risk having the car apart and missing a race.
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Physically they are mostly the same, and you can swap them back and forth. Turbo heads have sodium filled exhaust valves to keep the valves happier at high temps. Just make sure the temp sensors are the same.
 
Ok that's what I thought. However somewhere I read that the push rod cams were compatible. I didn't make sense to me bu everything on the internet is true so how could I argue that haha. Glad we cleared it up though. So that means I don't have any cams laying around that are worth using. Lame.

What types of gains are we talking from the flywheel upgrade? Greater then the cam/compression increase upgrade? Sounds costly and like I might be better saved til winter.

Guess I need to decide which head to mill. The one on the car might be best so I don't muck up a turbo head.
 
If you are on a budget, don?t buy an adjustable timing wheel.. Use your stock one but remove the lockpin that?s in your camshaft. 360 degree adjustable for free! I?ve been doing this and my friend too.. His motors are pushing aprox 220-250hp N/A!
Never had a failure.
A lighter flywheel is used to get your revs up higher quicker! But it will hurt your bottom range->midrange power because the loss in crankshaft inertia.


-Mattias
 
MATTIASKARLSSON said:
If you are on a budget, don?t buy an adjustable timing wheel.. Use your stock one but remove the lockpin that?s in your camshaft. 360 degree adjustable for free! I?ve been doing this and my friend too.. His motors are pushing aprox 220-250hp N/A!
Never had a failure.
A lighter flywheel is used to get your revs up higher quicker! But it will hurt your bottom range->midrange power because the loss in crankshaft inertia.


-Mattias
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What's his formula for 220-250 na hp? 16v?
 
PromiseRing said:
What's his formula for 220-250 na hp? 16v?
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OT but a pair of weber 48mm?s or equivalent, 2,5liter bottom end(balanced crank etc), flat pistons, shaved 8 valve 531 with bigger valves, ported ports, ported combustion chamber, MIRA milled valves and seats, double valvesprings, 37mm steel lifters, aftermarket camshaft, 4-2-1 header. Breakerless ignition.

I will see how much I can put down with all of this beside that im running 45mm ITB with 55mm trumpets, 2,3liter bottom end and megasquirt, im guessing like 210hp.. :)


-Mattias
 
MATTIASKARLSSON said:
OT but a pair of weber 48mm?s or equivalent, 2,5liter bottom end(balanced crank etc), flat pistons, shaved 8 valve 531 with bigger valves, ported ports, ported combustion chamber, MIRA milled valves and seats, double valvesprings, 37mm steel lifters, aftermarket camshaft, 4-2-1 header. Breakerless ignition.

I will see how much I can put down with all of this beside that im running 45mm ITB with 55mm trumpets, 2,3liter bottom end and megasquirt, im guessing like 210hp.. :)


-Mattias
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Awesome. That sounds expensive but neat.
 
MATTIASKARLSSON said:
If you are on a budget, don?t buy an adjustable timing wheel.. Use your stock one but remove the lockpin that?s in your camshaft. 360 degree adjustable for free! I?ve been doing this and my friend too.. His motors are pushing aprox 220-250hp N/A!
Never had a failure.


-Mattias
Click to expand...
This is the worst idea/advice I've heard in a long time.
 
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