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Help with Diagnosing Regina Crank No Start

C

chronicrhythm

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2012
Location
Colebrook, CT
The other day my 92 740 Regina died on me while driving home. Going 50 and no more throttle response just died. Checked the CPS and the insulation was all gone so figured that was the issue.
So far have replaced or put in new:
Fuel pump relay
Checked fuses
RSR relay
Distributor/plugs/wires
CPS (oem from FCP)
Coolant temp sensor by rear of block
verified timing is good
Ignition coil

Once in a while the car will start for 5-10 seconds and die. I am going to check the fuel pressure tomorrow or Wednesday in case the pump is on its way out but it seems pretty strong from the schrader valve. I am quite stumped with this one. Everything seems like it is there (fuel, spark, timing, air) but still no running except a few seconds. It won’t run without the O2 sensor plugged in. Would it default without it plugged in to at least run in limp mode or no? Also does anyone have voltage readings I can get from the ECU pins? I haven’t been able to find anything for Regina. Thinking I should do some voltage tests to confirm the ECU didn’t just crap out. Thanks!
 
I had a 1992 Volvo 940 Regina some years ago and my No Starts were due to 1) Failed In-tank Pump ( Only 1 on a Regina car), failed IAT Sensor that is in the rubber grommet on the air filter housing and a Failed MAP Sensor that is near the drivers-side strut tower....A Failed CTS would cause Hard Starts when Temps got Below 40*......Hope this can point you in the right direction....
 
Boxtoy940 said:
I had a 1992 Volvo 940 Regina some years ago and my No Starts were due to 1) Failed In-tank Pump ( Only 1 on a Regina car), failed IAT Sensor that is in the rubber grommet on the air filter housing and a Failed MAP Sensor that is near the drivers-side strut tower....A Failed CTS would cause Hard Starts when Temps got Below 40*......Hope this can point you in the right direction....
Click to expand...
When the pump failed did it still prime or just get weak? The IAT is only a few years old but I’ll check it out as well. Thanks!
 
chronicrhythm said:
The other day my 92 740 Regina died on me while driving home. Going 50 and no more throttle response just died. Checked the CPS and the insulation was all gone so figured that was the issue.
So far have replaced or put in new:
Fuel pump relay
Checked fuses
RSR relay
Distributor/plugs/wires
CPS (oem from FCP)
Coolant temp sensor by rear of block
verified timing is good
Ignition coil

Once in a while the car will start for 5-10 seconds and die. I am going to check the fuel pressure tomorrow or Wednesday in case the pump is on its way out but it seems pretty strong from the schrader valve. I am quite stumped with this one. Everything seems like it is there (fuel, spark, timing, air) but still no running except a few seconds. It won’t run without the O2 sensor plugged in. Would it default without it plugged in to at least run in limp mode or no? Also does anyone have voltage readings I can get from the ECU pins? I haven’t been able to find anything for Regina. Thinking I should do some voltage tests to confirm the ECU didn’t just crap out. Thanks!
Click to expand...
I had some issues with a rough running 91 regina 740, had a code for my engine coolant temp sensor, which I replaced, and also noticed that my throttle cable didn't have the proper amount of slack, in the process of cleaning the throttle body. It's supposed to have a click on the initial turn, mine was a little bit too tight. I think that was causing my engine to sputter on startup because it was getting flooded with fuel but the throttle was basically closed and the ecu thought it was being controlled by the pedal. I had a bad o2 sensor as well but to my knowledge regina doesn't need those to be functioning well to run. Did you check the fuel pressure regulator too? Maybe something bad there, common failure point. Anyways, do you have any engine codes? Those might point you in a useful direction as well
 
NLRegina said:
I had some issues with a rough running 91 regina 740, had a code for my engine coolant temp sensor, which I replaced, and also noticed that my throttle cable didn't have the proper amount of slack, in the process of cleaning the throttle body. It's supposed to have a click on the initial turn, mine was a little bit too tight. I think that was causing my engine to sputter on startup because it was getting flooded with fuel but the throttle was basically closed and the ecu thought it was being controlled by the pedal. I had a bad o2 sensor as well but to my knowledge regina doesn't need those to be functioning well to run. Did you check the fuel pressure regulator too? Maybe something bad there, common failure point. Anyways, do you have any engine codes? Those might point you in a useful direction as well
Click to expand...
I actually did get a code for the air temp sensor and the Idle air control sensor.
223 and 122 are the codes I got. I need to do some tests in those.
 
chronicrhythm said:
I actually did get a code for the air temp sensor and the Idle air control sensor.
223 and 122 are the codes I got. I need to do some tests in those.
Click to expand...
Air temp sensors are cheap aftermarket and easy to replace, regina IAC... not so much. Try removing the valve and cleaning the contacts and internals. A good gasoline soak helps after using some form of cleaner. Also don't forget to apply 12v to to open the valve to actually clean inside. Worst case scenario, a Bosch IAC is rumored to work decently, and according to someone else, the regina IAC seems engineered in a way to avoid a patent, likely the bosch design.

RWD - Bosch IAC valve on Regina car

Hello all first time poster here My daily driver is a 1991 745 with the Regina fuel management system AW70L trans and 250k For the past year or so the car has exhibited a lumpy low idle while in
www.brickboard.com www.brickboard.com
 
NLRegina said:
Air temp sensors are cheap aftermarket and easy to replace, regina IAC... not so much. Try removing the valve and cleaning the contacts and internals. A good gasoline soak helps after using some form of cleaner. Also don't forget to apply 12v to to open the valve to actually clean inside. Worst case scenario, a Bosch IAC is rumored to work decently, and according to someone else, the regina IAC seems engineered in a way to avoid a patent, likely the bosch design.

RWD - Bosch IAC valve on Regina car

Hello all first time poster here My daily driver is a 1991 745 with the Regina fuel management system AW70L trans and 250k For the past year or so the car has exhibited a lumpy low idle while in
www.brickboard.com www.brickboard.com
Click to expand...
I’ll try putting the old air temp sensor in. I replaced it with an oem one probably 3-4 years ago
 
I would double check your cam timing. A bunk idle air valve or IAT won't cause a no start.

If you have good spark and it doesn't run on starting fluid, I would pull the upper timing belt cover and look down at the crank sprocket timing. Don't rely on the harmonic balancer timing mark.
 
ZVOLV said:
I would double check your cam timing. A bunk idle air valve or IAT won't cause a no start.

If you have good spark and it doesn't run on starting fluid, I would pull the upper timing belt cover and look down at the crank sprocket timing. Don't rely on the harmonic balancer timing mark.
Click to expand...
Is it possible that the harmonic balancer is bad? When it’s at the zero mark the cam is right on. I’ll double check that when I get a chance
 
chronicrhythm said:
Is it possible that the harmonic balancer is bad? When it’s at the zero mark the cam is right on. I’ll double check that when I get a chance
Click to expand...
The rubber piece in old balancers loses its grip. As a result the two metal sections can drift out of alignment with each other - so the "0" mark on the balancer no longer is actually "0" on the crankshaft. That's why you double check with the crank sprocket mark.
 
Khrrck said:
The rubber piece in old balancers loses its grip. As a result the two metal sections can drift out of alignment with each other - so the "0" mark on the balancer no longer is actually "0" on the crankshaft. That's why you double check with the crank sprocket mark.
Click to expand...
I’ll double check that tomorrow morning! What I find strange though is that it will once in a while start and run for 10-20 seconds. Also all the belts are spinning and seem lined up
 
I guess there is a small chance a shorted or open intake air sensor could cause a crank no start, but I doubt it. You could always just unplug it. The engine should run on starting fluid if the spark and cam timing are correct.
 
How does the CPS work? Does it ground through the bellhousing? Possible that the ground isn’t good? I’m thinking it is a spark issue. Timing is good and still no start with Ether.
 
CPS is a VR sensor. two wires are signal the third is just a shield.
Pull the plugs, clear flood, and maybe put new plugs and try again on ether. Cant hurt to do compression test on all 4 while youre in there. I would also use a spark tester and confirm good sprak on all 4 wires.

Dist cap and rotor need to be good too.
 
ZVOLV said:
CPS is a VR sensor. two wires are signal the third is just a shield.
Pull the plugs, clear flood, and maybe put new plugs and try again on ether. Cant hurt to do compression test on all 4 while youre in there. I would also use a spark tester and confirm good sprak on all 4 wires.

Dist cap and rotor need to be good too.
Click to expand...
I’ve tried a new plugs and then a distributor and wires from a running car. I’ve also taken the plugs out and turned it over to get the gas cleared even with the injectors unplugged so that it wouldn’t put more in. I’m really at a loss
 
Have you checked for codes After replacing or addressing previous code issues...I wouldnt jump too far off the path just yet....
 
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