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I keep flushing and flushing but the crap won't go away.

My brothers old slant six had the worst chunks in the coolant. We made fittings so we could hook up a garden hose and blast it out under pressure. We did it a bunch of times and let it sit over night with evaporust and it slowly got better.
It probably took so many years with the po just running water to get that bad. It didn’t get all better but it got better. Maybe a year later we rebuilt it and the machine shop tanked it out for good
 
The hard water probably sped up the process.

I remember testing the water at home and it was like 300 Hardness PPM / mg/L.

I've never seen a redblock do this in a relatively short amount of time. Maybe in previous ownership the coolant was neglected.
This is the 3rd water pump Ive had to do since owning it.

Today I will assemble parts. Maybe at night I'll drive it. Who knows what will happen with the system under pressure.
 
Drained the coolant yesterday, still panning for gold but the cheap green coolant isn't super terrible with the coolant filter.
New fresh 15w-40 diesel oil.
Installed the new radiator, all new volvo hoses. New acc bushings and oem belts.
had to clean out the overflow tank, and drill out the vent hose inlet. It was clogged with rust. I was wondering why the system was burping through the lower hose.

I am still waiting on the sts hard coolant pipe. still using the rusty old one, but I bet that old one will leak any moment. It's literally the only thing I haven't replaced in the system.

This morning I did transmission fluid 3 gallon swap with Blue jug of Dex. Old stuff was black as coffee. raised the shift points once it all got warm, which was wierd.

I will run the car this way for a few months until I replace the cabin heater core, then restore it all to stock.

Question, Do I still Crush it?

https://imgur.com/a/yk6EE5h
 
is thermocure aluminum compatible @planetman @hiperfauto ? Are there any better/cheaper chemicals to use?

If I have access to this tool:

What order of operations do you recommend for flushing the engine jacket? I'm thinking:


(I do not have the inside heater core hooked up)

-Drain all coolant by disconnecting the lower radiator hose
-Open rear block drain block as well
-Remove thermostat
-Reinstall thermostat housing without the thermostat in place
-Connect pressure gun (from above) to the top hose connected to the thermostat, run water/air blips/flush through the system until clean
-Fill up the system with thermocure or whichever non-aluminium reactive chemical and dimineralized water
-run for a few days

-Repeat previous process draining the coolant, air/water flushing the system, but this time reinstalling the thermostat
-Install new radiator
-fill up with volvo green coolant and dimeneralized water
 
Unless you contact them, you're going to have to assume that Thermocure is safe for aluminum parts as we've never used their product.

On the rare occasions we did anything for a customers cooling system, we used something like Prestone coolant flush and did a simple drain, refill with water and flush chemicals and then a drain and refill with distilled water and an appropriate coolant ratio. Therefore, I can't comment on the flushing tool you've posted.

If we felt a customers cooling system needed more, we would send them to a radiator shop with the proper power flush equipment.
 
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