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IPD Billet Cam Concerns - 2024 Edition!

I only asked about the break in because they are new shims except for the one. Just thought that may be a remnant of wear in.

Ferrari 308 uses the same shims.
 
The cam and shims need to be matched in hardness. I wonder if the ipd billet cams aren't hardened correctly.
 
OVERDRIVE said:
This doesn't explain why I haven't chewed up the 3 OE cams I've ran with the IPD aftermarket shims.
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this is my thought and experience as well. this is not happening (at all?) with OEM cams. why are we thinking it's the shims?
 
I will add, that when I was around a lot of performance air cooled VW and Vanagon motors, the world view that I was raised with, is that the cam, lifters, AND engine case are all mated together. From one head (in this instance) to the next, the lifter bores may be shifted and not aligned to how they had been worn in previously (same shims and cam but different head). This isn't exactly the case here though. The stock shim that didn't eat a lobe was probably not because it was oe Volvo as much as it had already had been bed-in. The greenbook doesn't specify needing to break in new shims, but it also has other "unfavorable" specs to follow like 127psi cranking pressure, a head being warped half a mm, or cracks between the valve seats on a D24 all being acceptable. 12mm lift and a shorter duration will be hard on the valvetrain, harder than any OE redblock cam. Aftermarket cams have suffered with metallurgy issues across every make and model of engine for the last 10 years or so.
 
OVERDRIVE said:
Aftermarket cams have suffered with metallurgy issues across every make and model of engine for the last 10 years or so.
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Modern street legal ILSAC certified engine oil is a part of the problem and the cam train wear is the first spot where this takes effect. They had to lower the amount of zinc and phosphorus in order to make Catalytic Converters last under mandatory 100K miles warranty.
 
hiperfauto said:
7505__07853.1675784420.jpg
The kit in the yellow tray is identical (other than the sizes of shims) to the CRP kit that used to be readily available and are the brand that ipd used to sell.
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Are these crp kits not available anymore? I bought 3 of these kits a couple years back when I was setting up a couple S38s and an S14 for a guy, I also use them for redblocks and hoard shims from wreckers and mic them and mark the sizes.
 
I used to be able to get them from Worldpac but they don't have them anymore. I found a place in Canada a few years ago that said they have them but I didn't buy any.
 
hiperfauto said:
I used to be able to get them from Worldpac but they don't have them anymore. I found a place in Canada a few years ago that said they have them but I didn't buy any.
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I'll be damned. No longer available.
I guess I've got the monopoly on them then....
 
Even before the new IPD “billet” cams, they were doing this. No issue with lobe/shim wear when using the appropriate oil. The cam in the rally car with dual springs looks exactly the same, and it looked like that with stock springs as well.
Just use any decent oil, or Rotella t6 if you’re cheap, and change it often. The valve spring rate on a stock head is so abysmally low that you could probably use sewing machine oil and not have any wear.

I used “billet” in quotes above because the cams are not billet, they are cast. They are using “chilled billets” or “direct billet” casting technique to solidify the lobe areas faster and increase the hardness and wear resistance by creating martinsitic iron in those areas. It also allows you to pop out castings faster.
 
While I appreciate that IPD has had cams made. It sure would be nice if they were made of chilled cast iron by way of Sweden. That swedish metal is the good stuff. I ran the V15 n/a cam in my 93 wagon from 275k miles to 445k. No issues just acted like a good stock cam.
 
culberro said:
Even before the new IPD “billet” cams, they were doing this. No issue with lobe/shim wear when using the appropriate oil. The cam in the rally car with dual springs looks exactly the same, and it looked like that with stock springs as well.
Just use any decent oil, or Rotella t6 if you’re cheap, and change it often. The valve spring rate on a stock head is so abysmally low that you could probably use sewing machine oil and not have any wear.

I used “billet” in quotes above because the cams are not billet, they are cast. They are using “chilled billets” or “direct billet” casting technique to solidify the lobe areas faster and increase the hardness and wear resistance by creating martinsitic iron in those areas. It also allows you to pop out castings faster.
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I was about to say looking closer at the pictures it looks like a cast cam.
 
mikep said:
In the us v8 world steel cams almost always run roller lifters. Cast wears way better with flat tappets.
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The magic of sliding friction and needing dissimilar metals with one being softer than the other vs rolling friction and spalling.
Well, only when cost is a factor. If people really want the good hard stuff it's available. It's all just 3-5x the cost.
 
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