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1980 242 GT. A reasonable project.

Stiggy Pop said:
Cool!

Hmm April 14th already... tick tock tick tock
Click to expand...

Yeah... time is flying by. Winter lingering is really messing with motivations from my internal project clock.

I've been searching for all of the hydraulic clutch conversion components lately. Finding a hydraulic throwout bearing with a 1.5" ID has been more difficult than expected. So far I've only come across options from Tilton which are a bit pricey... perhaps that's the way forward.


Here's the Tilton unit I've been eyeing up: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-60-1100
 
Have you considered an external hydraulic slave? Use it with a normal fork? It's a nice way to do it everything is easily serviceable and it's easy to make the parts. I've done a few this way using the cnc 305b slave.
 
The Full Banana said:
Hopefully it's a winning combination! Which housing did you choose? I was thinking of starting with the .63. It does indeed appear that the waterpipe will require a little massaging, but not too bad all things considered.
Click to expand...

I went with the .82. I had the .63 with a GT3071R on the t5r and it was just an insanely fast turbo . If the GTX3067R is even faster, I certainly don't need the smaller exhaust side and with the atp manifold and an 82 exhaust wheel should breath a lot better up top. Should be a winner.

In a decade I'll let you know how it goes :rofl:
 
2fast242gt said:
Have you considered an external hydraulic slave? Use it with a normal fork? It's a nice way to do it everything is easily serviceable and it's easy to make the parts. I've done a few this way using the cnc 305b slave.
Click to expand...

I thought about it, but decided I like the idea of simplifying into one internal unit. The serviceability is the one definite upside of the external slave, but for a project car like this, I decided that was a bit less of a concern.

Hank Scorpio said:
I went with the .82. I had the .63 with a GT3071R on the t5r and it was just an insanely fast turbo . If the GTX3067R is even faster, I certainly don't need the smaller exhaust side and with the atp manifold and an 82 exhaust wheel should breath a lot better up top. Should be a winner.

In a decade I'll let you know how it goes :rofl:
Click to expand...

Good deal. This is my first foray into the land of bigger turbos (not that it's really a big turbo) so I'm going to take the conservative route and see. I really liked being able to have boost whenever I touched the pedal with the previous setup.

Hurry up! Ten years goes by quickly... I'll let you know how mine is in a month. :-D



I threw a bunch of money at a proper pressure plate. It's a Sachs 707. I'll use this with a single mass 850 flywheel and the same organic M5 clutch disc I used previously. Here's hoping it's not terrible to drive, but holds all the power I'll ever need.

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I got the proper pilot bearing for the 98 b5234t crank and getrag 265 and installed it. Fits great.

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Pulled the old engine wiring out and labeled some things so I don't forget. I need to find a good place to mount the megasquirt shortly.

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...and I got the transmission adapter plate! Very relieved to have this done, and somewhat amazed that I managed to do it.

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The Full Banana said:
I've been searching for all of the hydraulic clutch conversion components lately. Finding a hydraulic throwout bearing with a 1.5" ID has been more difficult than expected. So far I've only come across options from Tilton which are a bit pricey... perhaps that's the way forward.


Here's the Tilton unit I've been eyeing up: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-60-1100
Click to expand...

That's pretty much the price you can expect to pay. Don't waste your time with RAM, McLeod, Southwest Speed, or Quartermaster. That stuff is all pretty much equally dubious in quality.

I recently dealt with Powertrain Technology for a clutch rebuild and bought a release bearing and new organic discs. Extremely high quality parts, and I was happy with their prices and service. They have a "street" style bearing that might work and could be cheaper than the tilton one:

http://www.powertraintech.com/Files/Street-MAX.html
 
Good going on your project, I admire the way you take care of it.

Can you tell me what shocks you are using exactly? Not Koni FSD but Koni ''Sport'' .
Right?

Please let me know if you are satisfied with the handling, does it handle sporty ?
 
Alex Buchka said:
That's pretty much the price you can expect to pay. Don't waste your time with RAM, McLeod, Southwest Speed, or Quartermaster. That stuff is all pretty much equally dubious in quality.

I recently dealt with Powertrain Technology for a clutch rebuild and bought a release bearing and new organic discs. Extremely high quality parts, and I was happy with their prices and service. They have a "street" style bearing that might work and could be cheaper than the tilton one:

http://www.powertraintech.com/Files/Street-MAX.html
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I was hoping you might chime in, having recently gone through some of this. I'll check out Powertrain Technology's offerings or otherwise go with Tilton.

Is the Powertrain bearing what you used on your white 242?
 
Venlonaer said:
Good going on your project, I admire the way you take care of it.

Can you tell me what shocks you are using exactly? Not Koni FSD but Koni ''Sport'' .
Right?

Please let me know if you are satisfied with the handling, does it handle sporty ?
Click to expand...

Thanks! The shock part number should be listed in the first post of the thread (I try to keep as much info there as is reasonable). They are Koni Race shocks. The car handles very well, but it's also rather firm.
 
going to do some kind of aftermarket master cylinder as well or try to use a Volvo part?

I feel like I'm going to get into this sooner rather than later. We really fought the clutch cable on my car getting it back together, the heavy pressure plate isn't a good match for it. I was also watching the firewall plate flexing all over the place when my Dad was operating the pedal, there's just slop and flex in the whole cable system.
 
Stiggy Pop said:
going to do some kind of aftermarket master cylinder as well or try to use a Volvo part?

I feel like I'm going to get into this sooner rather than later. We really fought the clutch cable on my car getting it back together, the heavy pressure plate isn't a good match for it. I was also watching the firewall plate flexing all over the place when my Dad was operating the pedal, there's just slop and flex in the whole cable system.
Click to expand...

I plan on running this. Should allow for a smoother bite point than the 1:1 ratio master:slave stock setup.

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-2636
 
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